383 or 396 LT1's users
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From: kuwait
383 or 396 LT1's users What's the best stroker kit for LT1 and which a good company and cheapest??
383 it's the best for street race, correct me guys if i am wrong
I need to know two things!! what's the best cam for street and without NOS you used for stroker?? and what's the high and best compression on LT1 heads S2 2.020" / 1.600" for street and without NOS??
Thanks for advance
383 it's the best for street race, correct me guys if i am wrong
I need to know two things!! what's the best cam for street and without NOS you used for stroker?? and what's the high and best compression on LT1 heads S2 2.020" / 1.600" for street and without NOS??
Thanks for advance
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From: Houston
Re: 383 or 396 LT1's users The flow of the heads isnt a huge deal with compression. You can run just about any compression, the only problems you could have from heads are heat spots that create detonation and having them milled to much and getting piston to valve clearance issues. Run a higher octane gas and it will usually take care of the detonation, but thats a hassle so I would try to run between stock and 11.5:1 compression. A buddy was running 11.5(approximately), ran with 93 octane, and had no problems with detonation if that helps at all. For street racing, I would go the biggest possible while staying reliable, and make sure that I have a set of sticky tires. The torque from strokers will make it extremely hard to launch good on the street unless you have very sticky tires. As for the cam...call some of the sponsors on the right and they will help you chose a cam that best suits your needs.
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From: kuwait
Re: 383 or 396 LT1's users
The flow of the heads isnt a huge deal with compression. You can run just about any compression, the only problems you could have from heads are heat spots that create detonation and having them milled to much and getting piston to valve clearance issues. Run a higher octane gas and it will usually take care of the detonation, but thats a hassle so I would try to run between stock and 11.5:1 compression. A buddy was running 11.5(approximately), ran with 93 octane, and had no problems with detonation if that helps at all. For street racing, I would go the biggest possible while staying reliable, and make sure that I have a set of sticky tires. The torque from strokers will make it extremely hard to launch good on the street unless you have very sticky tires. As for the cam...call some of the sponsors on the right and they will help you chose a cam that best suits your needs.
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From: Houston
Re: 383 or 396 LT1's users im sory man, but i have no real clue what the last two questions are....i'll try to answer them fromwhat i gather you are asking..... you cant go wrong with the 306 cam on a big cube'd car, but you can definately go bigger, just make sure you have a typical split pattern cam with good exhaust duration and lift. 100 octane should take care of any detonation you might have if its being caused by pre-igntion.
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From: kuwait
Re: 383 or 396 LT1's users Sorry for the last two questions 
I mean help me to find some users of LT1's 383ci and the cam did they use it for street race and without NOS, the 306 cam it's not enough for 383's you know we can go bigger.
Now i am trying to find a good company to get the deal.
I mean help me to find some users of LT1's 383ci and the cam did they use it for street race and without NOS, the 306 cam it's not enough for 383's you know we can go bigger.
Now i am trying to find a good company to get the deal.
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Re: 383 or 396 LT1's users Lot of people I know use the 306 with their strokers and some go with gm847 grind as well, If you don't have to deal with the emission ****'s you can get away with bigger but then your stroker will not like the street because of the idle. Streetability is the key question you need to ask yourself not what's the biggest cam you can run because bigger is not always better
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From: That Southern Fried Space City
Re: 383 or 396 LT1's users Your question is a bit akward. In a street race, whether it be street legal or not, the driver has a lot to do with the car. I've seen fools with more money than ability "buy" themselves a high powered machine they couldn't drive to save their lives. So you have a 500hp car that can only manage 12's down the 1320 and on the street were tolerances are not ideal it only gets worse.
So 383 or 396...does it really matter? Not really...speaking from a budget racer standpoint the 383 is going to be the most economical. You can buy a cast crank combo for pennies on the dollar and you can even reuse your stock rods. If your really crafty, you can even source a new forged crank for under 400 bones...ask me how I know.
The 396 sure has a nice ring to it huh? Well, in my opinion thats the only real reason to go there. In an LT1, you are limited on how far you can go with cubes and that extra stroke from either makes clearances really tight causing the need for small base circle cams (a bit more $$) and extra clearancing which can get sketchy cause there isn't alot of material between that water jacket and that die grinder in your hand.
The compression aspect has already been covered so I'll head to the cam part which is going to be based around your compression, your head flow, and your ultimate rpm goals. You need to have your ducks in row before you just decide to throw down a cam. Especially if your interested in grabbing everything you can out of your combo.
So 383 or 396...does it really matter? Not really...speaking from a budget racer standpoint the 383 is going to be the most economical. You can buy a cast crank combo for pennies on the dollar and you can even reuse your stock rods. If your really crafty, you can even source a new forged crank for under 400 bones...ask me how I know.
The 396 sure has a nice ring to it huh? Well, in my opinion thats the only real reason to go there. In an LT1, you are limited on how far you can go with cubes and that extra stroke from either makes clearances really tight causing the need for small base circle cams (a bit more $$) and extra clearancing which can get sketchy cause there isn't alot of material between that water jacket and that die grinder in your hand.
The compression aspect has already been covered so I'll head to the cam part which is going to be based around your compression, your head flow, and your ultimate rpm goals. You need to have your ducks in row before you just decide to throw down a cam. Especially if your interested in grabbing everything you can out of your combo.
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From: kuwait
Re: 383 or 396 LT1's users
Lot of people I know use the 306 with their strokers and some go with gm847 grind as well, If you don't have to deal with the emission ****'s you can get away with bigger but then your stroker will not like the street because of the idle. Streetability is the key question you need to ask yourself not what's the biggest cam you can run because bigger is not always better
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From: kuwait
Re: 383 or 396 LT1's users
Your question is a bit akward. In a street race, whether it be street legal or not, the driver has a lot to do with the car. I've seen fools with more money than ability "buy" themselves a high powered machine they couldn't drive to save their lives. So you have a 500hp car that can only manage 12's down the 1320 and on the street were tolerances are not ideal it only gets worse.
So 383 or 396...does it really matter? Not really...speaking from a budget racer standpoint the 383 is going to be the most economical. You can buy a cast crank combo for pennies on the dollar and you can even reuse your stock rods. If your really crafty, you can even source a new forged crank for under 400 bones...ask me how I know.
The 396 sure has a nice ring to it huh? Well, in my opinion thats the only real reason to go there. In an LT1, you are limited on how far you can go with cubes and that extra stroke from either makes clearances really tight causing the need for small base circle cams (a bit more $$) and extra clearancing which can get sketchy cause there isn't alot of material between that water jacket and that die grinder in your hand.
The compression aspect has already been covered so I'll head to the cam part which is going to be based around your compression, your head flow, and your ultimate rpm goals. You need to have your ducks in row before you just decide to throw down a cam. Especially if your interested in grabbing everything you can out of your combo.
So 383 or 396...does it really matter? Not really...speaking from a budget racer standpoint the 383 is going to be the most economical. You can buy a cast crank combo for pennies on the dollar and you can even reuse your stock rods. If your really crafty, you can even source a new forged crank for under 400 bones...ask me how I know.
The 396 sure has a nice ring to it huh? Well, in my opinion thats the only real reason to go there. In an LT1, you are limited on how far you can go with cubes and that extra stroke from either makes clearances really tight causing the need for small base circle cams (a bit more $$) and extra clearancing which can get sketchy cause there isn't alot of material between that water jacket and that die grinder in your hand.
The compression aspect has already been covered so I'll head to the cam part which is going to be based around your compression, your head flow, and your ultimate rpm goals. You need to have your ducks in row before you just decide to throw down a cam. Especially if your interested in grabbing everything you can out of your combo.
I found stroker kit from FMS $3000 and now i want to find some good cam's from users the 383ci
