shutzero

i replaced the brushes and rear bearing in my alternator a little while ago and now all of a sudden im getting a low charge and check gages light. i had awesome charges up until i started it up today. any ideas?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Maybe you should've replaced the alternator entirely?

shutzero

And why is that? I pretty much have a new alternator now, all new alternators are pretty much rebuilt

shbox

Then you might need to replace the voltage regulator inside it. Or the small wire might have become disconnected. You can always have the alternator tested.

shutzero

What small wires? I'm still getting a charge its just realllyyyy low

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

i would check the small single wire that connects to the bottom of the alternator first. the lock on mine was weak and would pull out just enough to cause the gauge showing no charge. have you verified the low charge with a dmm? also how bout people jump off the dudes ***. if you have ever rebuilt an alternator you would understand that paying ~6 bucks for brushes and a hour of easy labor makes up for dropping 150+. if you can do a header swap you can change brushes.

shutzero

I'm just basing the low charge off of the rading from the gauge in the dash

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

if you have a dmm or voltmeter make sure you really arent charging. then check that wire since its right there. like i said mine used to do the same thing and i would have to play with the connector until it worked. took me what seemed like forever to realize the pin was loose in the connector. oh yeah what is the dash reading?

shutzero

Dash is reading 1/4 charge...whatever the number is I can't remember I'm at school right now haha

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

As stated, get a voltmeter. If you do end up having to replace the whole thing, at least you aren't out much extra money.

shutzero

voltmeter read 12.09 volts at idle. the wire that plugs into the voltage regulator was heatshrinked previously, must have been cut at one point. i also had the car idling for a good 5-10 minutes...if the alternator was bad wouldnt the car not run?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

It will still run fine, but it would eventually drain the battery until it died.

shutzero

ok so what does the reading from the voltmeter tell me...

the battery stayed charged, and all the electrical systems didnt shutdown...which is why i said it was running fine for a good 10 minutes...the battery is still being charged

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

batteries can run for a while depending on their reserve rating. are you measuring across the terminals with the car running? you should be seeing between 13 and 14v. just to verify its not the meter measure the batt with the car off. a guy i work with was using a busted meter that was reading way high and took him hours of diag before i checked it with my meter and it was in spec. if its neither of the connections on the rear, your brushes may have come off. its been a couple years since i built one but do the brushes have a wire that needs to be soldered? another stupid question...you did pull the pin out of the brushes right?

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Correct, if you are seeing 12 v, you are running off the battery. You should see a minimum of ~13 v. Keep digging into the alternator, there is most certainly an issue there.
BTW, where did you take your measurement? At the battery, the back of the alternator or the fenderwell where all the 12v connections are?

shutzero

yea the pin is out and no the wire doesnt need to be soldered...im about to bring the damn alternator and battery to autozone to get tested...but i tested with the car running and it read 12.09 volts

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

As stated, that's low. Test the alt since that was rebuilt recently. If that's not it, check your grounds.

shutzero

back of the alternator and the battery

shutzero

if it doesnt pass then what

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I'd replace it. But you could fix it again.