LT1 383 Build
Machine work adds up fast and an internal balance + turning can quickly add
to up a cost that will make you wish you ordered a forged aftermarket crank.
I recently put 5 slugs into a stock crank and had it turned .010" to replace a broken crank in a 355.
If it's known it was going to cost that much I'd have put the money towards an upgrade instead.
Another victim of a budget coming up short. There are a lot of mediocre performing engines out there with built bottom ends who made the same mistake as you did. People shoot for the 383/396 builds only to top it off with gasket matched heads and a ported intake...when they could have put a nice top end on a stock bottom end and outran any stroker they attempted to build.
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Another victim of a budget coming up short. There are a lot of mediocre performing engines out there with built bottom ends who made the same mistake as you did. People shoot for the 383/396 builds only to top it off with gasket matched heads and a ported intake...when they could have put a nice top end on a stock bottom end and outran any stroker they attempted to build.
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Just be sure to weigh your options before you commit.
Machine work adds up fast and an internal balance + turning can quickly add
to up a cost that will make you wish you ordered a forged aftermarket crank.
I recently put 5 slugs into a stock crank and had it turned .010" to replace a broken crank in a 355.
If it's known it was going to cost that much I'd have put the money towards an upgrade instead.
Machine work adds up fast and an internal balance + turning can quickly add
to up a cost that will make you wish you ordered a forged aftermarket crank.
I recently put 5 slugs into a stock crank and had it turned .010" to replace a broken crank in a 355.
If it's known it was going to cost that much I'd have put the money towards an upgrade instead.
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Got a steal for 250 brand new comp cam nsa rr's, shipped even. I'm excited, the cam comes in next week, and the alum LE2 Heads/LE2 Intake comes in the week after. The shop is just waiting on the cam to come in to assemble the bottom end. So in a month, I can have my SoSlow Imp not be SoSlow anymore. I'm just hoping everything goes well. Soon after I'll possibly get a dyno tune by Vince, but if I don't want to spend much more money I'll probably go mail tune. I do want a dyno sheet though. Any suggestions before she gets put in?
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From: CHITOWN
It would make more power if you just freshened up the STOCK bottom end, and put the head package you want on it.
I did that in the beginning with a VERY small cam and made about 380 to the wheels. Used the stock crank, some old style steel Chevy rods, Probe forged pistons.
Take it down, have the block checked for taper wear. If its ok, Hone it with torque plates. Replace the rings, rod, cam and main bearings, new oil pump, ARP rod bolts and put it back together.
If the block needs boring, bore it and put a set of $450 speed pro forged pistons in it.
SLap the head/cam package you want on it, have ALOT more fun with that than with a stock headed 383.
I did that in the beginning with a VERY small cam and made about 380 to the wheels. Used the stock crank, some old style steel Chevy rods, Probe forged pistons.
Take it down, have the block checked for taper wear. If its ok, Hone it with torque plates. Replace the rings, rod, cam and main bearings, new oil pump, ARP rod bolts and put it back together.
If the block needs boring, bore it and put a set of $450 speed pro forged pistons in it.
SLap the head/cam package you want on it, have ALOT more fun with that than with a stock headed 383.
Thats exactly what id do, hell our stock rods are strong its our pistons that are junk. Id do exactly what you did, its the best way to go. And its simple, your going to spend thousands of dollers to wait for speed.
Do a reliable budget setup and have fun with it, trust me a big cube motor with stock heads isnt any fun at all.
Build a motor with YOUR MEANS, not your DREAMs and you will have alot more fun with it.
Head n Cam with a fresh bottom end and forged pistoned.
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From: CHITOWN
Another victim of a budget coming up short. There are a lot of mediocre performing engines out there with built bottom ends who made the same mistake as you did. People shoot for the 383/396 builds only to top it off with gasket matched heads and a ported intake...when they could have put a nice top end on a stock bottom end and outran any stroker they attempted to build.
Heads are the key to power!
Its like a 460cube ford, or a big block caddy sure its got the cubes but they head flow just isnt there.
TECH Junkie
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From: CHITOWN
Got a steal for 250 brand new comp cam nsa rr's, shipped even. I'm excited, the cam comes in next week, and the alum LE2 Heads/LE2 Intake comes in the week after. The shop is just waiting on the cam to come in to assemble the bottom end. So in a month, I can have my SoSlow Imp not be SoSlow anymore. I'm just hoping everything goes well. Soon after I'll possibly get a dyno tune by Vince, but if I don't want to spend much more money I'll probably go mail tune. I do want a dyno sheet though. Any suggestions before she gets put in?
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I'm going to end up going with the Yank 3600SS. I've asked around and it all led me to this. Heard good things about it and my buddy has the same one on his Impala SS and was stock pretty much until you got on the throttle. By summer time I can hopefully have a rebuilt tranny thru Speed Secrets up here in Washington. But jeeze that converter is 725 bucks... But hey I'm already spending a ton load of money into it so why not? Reliablilty, driveability, and fun factor all go in the same catagory
I'm going to end up going with the Yank 3600SS. I've asked around and it all led me to this. Heard good things about it and my buddy has the same one on his Impala SS and was stock pretty much until you got on the throttle. By summer time I can hopefully have a rebuilt tranny thru Speed Secrets up here in Washington. But jeeze that converter is 725 bucks... But hey I'm already spending a ton load of money into it so why not? Reliablilty, driveability, and fun factor all go in the same catagory
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Just got the cam in yesterday from Bullet Racing per LE. Dropping off to the shop Monday. Awaiting heads and intake, will be finished up soon. Getting close, can't wait. Should i go ahead and get a mail order tune when its all running or wait for a dynotune? or wait till i get my tranny built?
Try to work out a deal with the dynotuner, see if they'll let you have the base tune ahead of time.
(the one they'd have to build for you to get started on dyno day anyhow)
Some tuners are ok with that if you pay up front ... some aren't.
I was pushing the limits of SVO reds with my 350 and a smaller cam.
I like racetronix's (Lucas) flow-matched injectors, 37 or 42#.
Last edited by James Montigny; Apr 15, 2009 at 04:20 PM.
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You'll want something to start it up and try to get things seated before you hit the dyno if at all possible.
Try to work out a deal with the dynotuner, see if they'll let you have the base tune ahead of time.
(the one they'd have to build for you to get started on dyno day anyhow)
Some tuners are ok with that if you pay up front ... some aren't.
The 255 will bve fine, but 30# are going to be a little small.
I was pushing the limits of SVO reds with my 350 and a smaller cam.
I like racetronix's (Lucas) flow-matched injectors, 36 or 42#.
Try to work out a deal with the dynotuner, see if they'll let you have the base tune ahead of time.
(the one they'd have to build for you to get started on dyno day anyhow)
Some tuners are ok with that if you pay up front ... some aren't.
The 255 will bve fine, but 30# are going to be a little small.
I was pushing the limits of SVO reds with my 350 and a smaller cam.
I like racetronix's (Lucas) flow-matched injectors, 36 or 42#.
Went on the racetronix site, lloyd reccomends 37#. any part numbers?
Being "bigger" isn't a problem. It just gives you room to grow.
http://www.racetronix.com/01D114x.html - 37# (+/- 4%)
http://www.racetronix.com/621031FM.html - 42# FlowMatched (within 1%)
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37s will work, they just don't offer them in flowmatched sets.
Being "bigger" isn't a problem. It just gives you room to grow.
http://www.racetronix.com/01D114x.html - 37# (+/- 4%)
http://www.racetronix.com/621031FM.html - 42# FlowMatched (within 1%)
Being "bigger" isn't a problem. It just gives you room to grow.
http://www.racetronix.com/01D114x.html - 37# (+/- 4%)
http://www.racetronix.com/621031FM.html - 42# FlowMatched (within 1%)
Thanks. I've been soaking up the info the forums have about these builds. I'm not looking for a dragstrip monster, just a nicely built motor for my DD. Everyone's happy with this setup and it's proven.
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Not sure how many lt1's came factory with the oil cooler setup. Just wanted to see if its worth keeping. My current lines are now leaking, i can get new lines for 40bucks. Just wanted to see how people thought about the oil cooling deal.
Ouch spendy. Lol. I won't be harming the motor any if I don't get the fuel pump and fuel injectors right away would I? From what I understand is, not upgrading the fuel system will just hold the motor back from its full potential. Please correct me if i misinterpreted the information.
The stock pump will have trouble keeping up with fuel demands at high RPM, dropping pressure, which will leave you running lean.
If you want to hold off on the pump, keep RPMs low enough that FP doesn't drop off.
(a gauge can be screwed into the fuel rail to test)
If your budget is running thin (and they generally do at this point of the build), check the for sale
section for used parts from people with good reputations. I'd rather see a used part in there than
a part that can't do the job.
I eliminated mine after seeing that even the turbo guys run without them.
Last edited by James Montigny; Apr 25, 2009 at 09:18 AM.