LT1 383 Build
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LT1 383 Build Sad. I wanted to go with Lloyd's head a cam setup initially, but I can no longer fit them in my budget now. Talking to a reputable shop down here, owner says to just build something that'll keep me happy untill I can scrape up the funds and put together a motor that I wanted. So here it is, he's going to build a 383 for me for about two to twenty-five hundred bucks. I've seen his work at local car shows and didn't even know that some of the people I knew went to him for their builds. I'd like to do this, because this damn boat is just down right sluggish. Will I feel a huge improvement if I went this route?
it's not gonna be a huge improvement but atleast you'll have a good platform for future mods
have you atleast priced local shops for head porting? I've seen some go for 300-400 for a decent port job, get some matching springs, then get a custom cam for $300 from Lloyd or look for a decent off the shelf cam used
have you atleast priced local shops for head porting? I've seen some go for 300-400 for a decent port job, get some matching springs, then get a custom cam for $300 from Lloyd or look for a decent off the shelf cam used
I would say there is definitely a potential for a big improvement, mildly ported heads and a carefully choosen cam can yield great results. I would suggest a cam around 240 with .575 and 110lsa, but should obviously compliment your overall build and intention.
It would make more power if you just freshened up the STOCK bottom end, and put the head package you want on it.
I did that in the beginning with a VERY small cam and made about 380 to the wheels. Used the stock crank, some old style steel Chevy rods, Probe forged pistons.
Take it down, have the block checked for taper wear. If its ok, Hone it with torque plates. Replace the rings, rod, cam and main bearings, new oil pump, ARP rod bolts and put it back together.
If the block needs boring, bore it and put a set of $450 speed pro forged pistons in it.
SLap the head/cam package you want on it, have ALOT more fun with that than with a stock headed 383.
I did that in the beginning with a VERY small cam and made about 380 to the wheels. Used the stock crank, some old style steel Chevy rods, Probe forged pistons.
Take it down, have the block checked for taper wear. If its ok, Hone it with torque plates. Replace the rings, rod, cam and main bearings, new oil pump, ARP rod bolts and put it back together.
If the block needs boring, bore it and put a set of $450 speed pro forged pistons in it.
SLap the head/cam package you want on it, have ALOT more fun with that than with a stock headed 383.
Doing the same thing to a LT1 and having the machine shop assemble it would only be a couple hundred more.
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It would make more power if you just freshened up the STOCK bottom end, and put the head package you want on it.
I did that in the beginning with a VERY small cam and made about 380 to the wheels. Used the stock crank, some old style steel Chevy rods, Probe forged pistons.
Take it down, have the block checked for taper wear. If its ok, Hone it with torque plates. Replace the rings, rod, cam and main bearings, new oil pump, ARP rod bolts and put it back together.
If the block needs boring, bore it and put a set of $450 speed pro forged pistons in it.
SLap the head/cam package you want on it, have ALOT more fun with that than with a stock headed 383.
I did that in the beginning with a VERY small cam and made about 380 to the wheels. Used the stock crank, some old style steel Chevy rods, Probe forged pistons.
Take it down, have the block checked for taper wear. If its ok, Hone it with torque plates. Replace the rings, rod, cam and main bearings, new oil pump, ARP rod bolts and put it back together.
If the block needs boring, bore it and put a set of $450 speed pro forged pistons in it.
SLap the head/cam package you want on it, have ALOT more fun with that than with a stock headed 383.
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I mean including a new rotating assembly. Which would be necessary for the 383 this guy says he will be getting. Sounds like a longblock too, not just a shortblock so figure several hundred worth of springs and valvejob at least.
Not refreshing a stock motor. In refreshing a stock motor you have to buy less so the budget can be smaller.
Not refreshing a stock motor. In refreshing a stock motor you have to buy less so the budget can be smaller.
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Yea it's for a whole new rotating assembly including the machine work. I did think about freshening up the bottom end up and slap some forged pistons in it and get theLE2 head cam package. I'm out of Seattle, so I can't have too much cam as I'd have to pass emissions out here. I will be going in tomorrow to be dropping off the block, heads, and intake. I had everything dissasembled so I can get the LE2 package. I guess I'll be going over a few scenarios with him tomorrow lol. I would like a 383 because of it's potential, but with stock heads really not much of an improvement over stock. Many say freshen the shortblock and throw some forged pistons in if needed then I can get the LE2, which is a huge improvement over stock. Well like I said I will be going in tomorrow to figure out what im going to do. Ahh soo much to think about today.
a stock headed 383 or even lightly ported will not make anything close to what a Le2 heads, le1 cam car would put down.
And even if you do want to build the bottom end I wouldnt put all you money towards upping the cubes. That will do very little for power, I would put all my money to the heads, as they determine how much power the motor can make.
Have you thought about cheap forged pistons, arp hardware and stock crank and rods. It should be good for 450rwhp and would leave much more loot to spend on the top end?
I just see no reason to build a bigger motor that will always be held back by the heads??
And even if you do want to build the bottom end I wouldnt put all you money towards upping the cubes. That will do very little for power, I would put all my money to the heads, as they determine how much power the motor can make.
Have you thought about cheap forged pistons, arp hardware and stock crank and rods. It should be good for 450rwhp and would leave much more loot to spend on the top end?
I just see no reason to build a bigger motor that will always be held back by the heads??
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a stock headed 383 or even lightly ported will not make anything close to what a Le2 heads, le1 cam car would put down.
And even if you do want to build the bottom end I wouldnt put all you money towards upping the cubes. That will do very little for power, I would put all my money to the heads, as they determine how much power the motor can make.
Have you thought about cheap forged pistons, arp hardware and stock crank and rods. It should be good for 450rwhp and would leave much more loot to spend on the top end?
I just see no reason to build a bigger motor that will always be held back by the heads??
And even if you do want to build the bottom end I wouldnt put all you money towards upping the cubes. That will do very little for power, I would put all my money to the heads, as they determine how much power the motor can make.
Have you thought about cheap forged pistons, arp hardware and stock crank and rods. It should be good for 450rwhp and would leave much more loot to spend on the top end?
I just see no reason to build a bigger motor that will always be held back by the heads??
Go with an aftermarket good set of rings and a nice forged piston.
And what do you mean "spendy comp roller rockers"? It's just another recommended cost when upgrading. IMO, NOT going with new roller rockers on LE heads is lunacy.
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Stock crank and rods are fine - just need the necessary machine-work.
Go with an aftermarket good set of rings and a nice forged piston.
And what do you mean "spendy comp roller rockers"? It's just another recommended cost when upgrading. IMO, NOT going with new roller rockers on LE heads is lunacy.
Go with an aftermarket good set of rings and a nice forged piston.
And what do you mean "spendy comp roller rockers"? It's just another recommended cost when upgrading. IMO, NOT going with new roller rockers on LE heads is lunacy.
Oh yea I'm definitely doing it, don't get me wrong. I'm also just going to go ahead and have the intake ported, if it's worth doing for a daily driver? The throttle body and injectors are just going to have to wait a bit.
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I'm going thought the same scenario right now!!! I could care less about CI... im looking for the best bang for buck and Ive already decided on the LE2 with ported intake top end..... i got a bare block at the machine shop and they say 383 is the way to go with all new parts plus labor $ 3200 that just nuts!!!!! Ill prob have them clean the block up but ill be building it myself. I like the idea of just " refreshing" the stock bottom end. I need the pistons as some are cracked and the crank is scored by the bearings. So those will need to be replaced other then that... what should be changed while i have it apart??? from whats been posted i got , forged pistons, New piston rods?, aftermarket upgraded rings, new steel stock crank, cam and main bearings, new oil pump, ARP rod bolts, ......... any other recommendations. I really don't wanna replace something if its not worth in????? Thanks
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I'm going thought the same scenario right now!!! I could care less about CI... im looking for the best bang for buck and Ive already decided on the LE2 with ported intake top end..... i got a bare block at the machine shop and they say 383 is the way to go with all new parts plus labor $ 3200 that just nuts!!!!! Ill prob have them clean the block up but ill be building it myself. I like the idea of just " refreshing" the stock bottom end. I need the pistons as some are cracked and the crank is scored by the bearings. So those will need to be replaced other then that... what should be changed while i have it apart??? from whats been posted i got , forged pistons, New piston rods?, aftermarket upgraded rings, new steel stock crank, cam and main bearings, new oil pump, ARP rod bolts, ......... any other recommendations. I really don't wanna replace something if its not worth in????? Thanks
Good to know I'm not the only one caught up in a bind. I'm going ahead with the freshening up of the bottom end with some good forged pistons. Just hoping the crank and rods are good. but if i can get out with just spending 3,000 to 3,500 bucks on the rebuilt bottom end and top end assembled I'd be happy, as I was almost about to waste nearly the same amount on a stock headed 383. Lol if it weren't for these guys here, I woulda went with the 383 build as it was the easier route, but less satifaction.
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Well got the shortblock dropped off at the shop and hopefully the crank and rods are salvagable. They checked out the cylinders of the block and said were amazed how they were hardly worn out. I went ahead and went with the forged mahle piston. I go back next monday to get the news. I just hope everything turns out as planned as I don't want to end up buying a whole new bottom end. If thats the case go with 383?
Well atleast I'll look at the bright side. I sent my heads and intake in, so I'll have the head/cam setup I've wanted finally LOL.
Well atleast I'll look at the bright side. I sent my heads and intake in, so I'll have the head/cam setup I've wanted finally LOL.