,,,yes cant wait to fix the play in my steering wheel 
Rag-Joint Eliminator !
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From: Bahrain
Rag-Joint Eliminator ! other than (Unbalanced Engineering), are there any other brands/manufacturers who offer these rag-joint eliminators? i tried to search on summit but nothing found so far, need it asap,,,
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
I'm sure you could find someone here who'd let you ship it to their place and then ship it overseas for you if you could send them the money, via PayPal or something. I would except we're moving very very soon :\
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Only for more pics of the pretty lady next to the 'camaro 
Meh ok, like that'll happen anyways lol
https://ls1tech.com/forums/10260025-post26.html
My solution to the 90º off problem, would be either drill a hole through the shaft and the steering wheel portion and then put a bolt through the whole thing (like the trailer hitch fitting inside the receiver and the pin holds it in place). Or to grind a small section out where the bolt has to pass through the eyelets but comes in contact with the round area on the splined steering side. If you don't quite follow me, take your shaft off and it'll make sense then
Otherwise PM me and I"ll try to explain it better.
Meh ok, like that'll happen anyways lol
https://ls1tech.com/forums/10260025-post26.html
My solution to the 90º off problem, would be either drill a hole through the shaft and the steering wheel portion and then put a bolt through the whole thing (like the trailer hitch fitting inside the receiver and the pin holds it in place). Or to grind a small section out where the bolt has to pass through the eyelets but comes in contact with the round area on the splined steering side. If you don't quite follow me, take your shaft off and it'll make sense then
Otherwise PM me and I"ll try to explain it better. 
i would use the Ls1 shaft to avoid the entire shipping hassle.....
to mod the Ls1 shaft will take about 20 min to do thats 5min to remove from car,knock the knuckle off the splinened end re-clock into Lt1 position put a small tack-weld to hold in place then re-instal... that's how it worked for me.
to mod the Ls1 shaft will take about 20 min to do thats 5min to remove from car,knock the knuckle off the splinened end re-clock into Lt1 position put a small tack-weld to hold in place then re-instal... that's how it worked for me.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
i would use the Ls1 shaft to avoid the entire shipping hassle.....
to mod the Ls1 shaft will take about 20 min to do thats 5min to remove from car,knock the knuckle off the splinened end re-clock into Lt1 position put a small tack-weld to hold in place then re-instal... that's how it worked for me.
to mod the Ls1 shaft will take about 20 min to do thats 5min to remove from car,knock the knuckle off the splinened end re-clock into Lt1 position put a small tack-weld to hold in place then re-instal... that's how it worked for me.
i would use the Ls1 shaft to avoid the entire shipping hassle.....
to mod the Ls1 shaft will take about 20 min to do thats 5min to remove from car,knock the knuckle off the splinened end re-clock into Lt1 position put a small tack-weld to hold in place then re-instal... that's how it worked for me.
to mod the Ls1 shaft will take about 20 min to do thats 5min to remove from car,knock the knuckle off the splinened end re-clock into Lt1 position put a small tack-weld to hold in place then re-instal... that's how it worked for me.
So it will only be off 90* if you use the LS1 steering linkage with an LT1 rack?
I am planning on swapping in the LS1 rack and linkage together...
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
if you look at the top portion of the Ls1 shaft you will see where the splined shaft goes into the knucle, directly under the small universal joint the shaft is pinched in 2 places, you have to grind this part to allow the shaft to be seperated from the knuckle, at this point you rotate the shaft to match ths Lt1 shaft reassemble shaft then reinstall into car. Now at this point pull the Ls1 shaft from the car and put 2 small tack-welds on the portion of the splined shaft this is so easy it is rediculous.....you really need to have both shafts in your hand, there is no trickery here.
i posted 2 pics showing where i tack-welded in a similar post a few months back.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
no modding of the rack end is needed...focus on the opposite end.
if you look at the top portion of the Ls1 shaft you will see where the splined shaft goes into the knucle, directly under the small universal joint the shaft is pinched in 2 places, you have to grind this part to allow the shaft to be seperated from the knuckle, at this point you rotate the shaft to match ths Lt1 shaft reassemble shaft then reinstall into car. Now at this point pull the Ls1 shaft from the car and put 2 small tack-welds on the portion of the splined shaft this is so easy it is rediculous.....you really need to have both shafts in your hand, there is no trickery here.
i posted 2 pics showing where i tack-welded in a similar post a few months back.
if you look at the top portion of the Ls1 shaft you will see where the splined shaft goes into the knucle, directly under the small universal joint the shaft is pinched in 2 places, you have to grind this part to allow the shaft to be seperated from the knuckle, at this point you rotate the shaft to match ths Lt1 shaft reassemble shaft then reinstall into car. Now at this point pull the Ls1 shaft from the car and put 2 small tack-welds on the portion of the splined shaft this is so easy it is rediculous.....you really need to have both shafts in your hand, there is no trickery here.
i posted 2 pics showing where i tack-welded in a similar post a few months back.
Do you knock off the part at location 1 or 2 in the image? And for anyone w/o a welder, you could still drill and bolt the area he's referring to.
You CANNOT drill and bolt on the steering shaft, PERIOD!
that is a high-load/stress component, one that CANNOT FAIL! (Safety, ever heard of it? Actually, you obviously wouldn't take responsibility of someone did what you said and it ended up breaking while driving, there was loss of control and it killed someone, now would you?)
It is designed, from the factory, as a captured shaft, in that if the vibration-isolating material deteriorates, the shaft can still be used to drive the vehicle as the shaft sections are captured with the 'cage' of the design. That applies to both the LT1 and LS1 shafts.
The only way to modify the LS1 shaft is to grind or press the flared sections, as described by 96lt1m6, and reassembled and press or weld that section. The spline is all that is required for strength so the weld or pressed flare is there for pull-apart tension, which the rack really won't see large loads in on the car.
To tell someone to drill into the steering intermediate shaft is beyond ignorant, it is dangerous. You really need to STFU for everyones good.
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There are two main ways that S-10 guys replace the rag-joint.
One is buying a shaft out of Jeeps (different jeeps had different lengths), and it simply bolts onto the stock shaft after the shaft is cut shorter. The jeep shaft has the same splines. Not sure if this would be any help to "do-it-yourselfer" F-body people... truck guys are VERY DIY.
The other way is buying pieces from Flaming River. If you don't like modifying at all, I'd look into the flaming river peices. They're pretty too
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
One is buying a shaft out of Jeeps (different jeeps had different lengths), and it simply bolts onto the stock shaft after the shaft is cut shorter. The jeep shaft has the same splines. Not sure if this would be any help to "do-it-yourselfer" F-body people... truck guys are VERY DIY.
The other way is buying pieces from Flaming River. If you don't like modifying at all, I'd look into the flaming river peices. They're pretty too
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
TECH Senior Member
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
ARGH, you just won't stop... Redneck hack stupidity...
You CANNOT drill and bolt on the steering shaft, PERIOD!
that is a high-load/stress component, one that CANNOT FAIL! (Safety, ever heard of it? Actually, you obviously wouldn't take responsibility of someone did what you said and it ended up breaking while driving, there was loss of control and it killed someone, now would you?)
It is designed, from the factory, as a captured shaft, in that if the vibration-isolating material deteriorates, the shaft can still be used to drive the vehicle as the shaft sections are captured with the 'cage' of the design. That applies to both the LT1 and LS1 shafts.
The only way to modify the LS1 shaft is to grind or press the flared sections, as described by 96lt1m6, and reassembled and press or weld that section. The spline is all that is required for strength so the weld or pressed flare is there for pull-apart tension, which the rack really won't see large loads in on the car.
To tell someone to drill into the steering intermediate shaft is beyond ignorant, it is dangerous. You really need to STFU for everyones good.
You CANNOT drill and bolt on the steering shaft, PERIOD!
that is a high-load/stress component, one that CANNOT FAIL! (Safety, ever heard of it? Actually, you obviously wouldn't take responsibility of someone did what you said and it ended up breaking while driving, there was loss of control and it killed someone, now would you?)
It is designed, from the factory, as a captured shaft, in that if the vibration-isolating material deteriorates, the shaft can still be used to drive the vehicle as the shaft sections are captured with the 'cage' of the design. That applies to both the LT1 and LS1 shafts.
The only way to modify the LS1 shaft is to grind or press the flared sections, as described by 96lt1m6, and reassembled and press or weld that section. The spline is all that is required for strength so the weld or pressed flare is there for pull-apart tension, which the rack really won't see large loads in on the car.
To tell someone to drill into the steering intermediate shaft is beyond ignorant, it is dangerous. You really need to STFU for everyones good.
This is where I'm referring to, just to make sure we're on the same page. Hole is drilled there, through the clamped area and then through the steering wheel's splinned shaft. Use a small bolt that just keeps it from pulling out.