I meant you didn't have to call it a weak turd of a setup. Some would say the same about your car I'm sure. So you're saying the world would be a better place if people were buttholes like you instead of PROPERLY wording things? Got it.

You tell it like it is...in the most negative sounding way you can think of. I guess it's blueprinted in your brain to be that way. One word.

INSECURE.....

 

If thats the cause id just part out what you got and use the extra money for a cam only setup with a nice gear and drag radials.


http://elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html

http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiContact.html

Both of them can help you and it will be worth using them

 

Thanks, somewhere down the line i will be needing this. This summer the cam is going in. I'm pretty dead set on a cc503 though, with what i have it will compliment it perfectly.

 

If I were you, I'd get Ai's 226/234 cam.

 

what kind of numbers can i expect from that vs. the cc503? i'm looking at around 350whp with the cc503 if i remember correctly

 

From Ai's website:

Comp CC503 224 / 230 - .536/.544 - 112 LSA CompCams Lobe #'s - Intake: 3314 Exhaust: 3315
The Comp Cams CC503 is one of the most common newer grinds utilizing Comp's original Xtreme Energy series lobes. The more aggressive XE series lobes require quality valvetrain components to retain reliability. Our 218/226 will typically match it's output & our 226/234 will exhibit comparable drivability with another 10-15hp.

 

wow, not too shabby. from what i've heard though the cc503 is the biggest you want to go with stock top/bottom end. wouldn't the 226/234 be too aggressive?

 

Also from their website:

Ai 226 / 234 - .569/.570 - 110 LSA Primary Operating Range: 2000-6200rpm
This is our largest stock long-block cam for auto cars. Lopey idle, good drivability, and excellent mid-range with peak power at approximately 6200rpm. Properly tuned w/ supporting modifications, M6's typically produce 345-360rwhp SAE corrected.

Ai 230 / 238 - .575/.575 - 110 LSA Primary Operating Range: 2300-6400rpm
This is our largest stock long-block cam for M6 cars. Excellent for rebuilds with 11:1 compression. Lopey idle, good drivability with gears & tuning, and excellent mid-range with peak power at approximately 6300rpm. Properly tuned w/ supporting modifications, M6's typically produce 350-365rwhp SAE corrected.

 

360whp is damn good. I'd definately need to upgrade the valve train to be revving 6200

 

Yep, some Comp 918's, PAC 1218's, or Patriot springs w/ TI retainers, chromemoly prs, nsa 1.6 full rr's, TF guideplates.

 

sounds about right. im lookin at 1200 in parts including the cam, roughly. then of course tires. stock clutch should be okay for a while though

 

What?! have a 1993 m6 trans am with the stock 3.23's. Your saying i could go with some 3.73's and not hurt my 80mph rpm's? Iv got lt's, ory, cai with airfoil, madz28 tune, and 24#svo's. Im more into handling and street performance, would 3.73's do alot? Stupid question i know, but iv never had a chance to feel a before and after gear swap on a bolt on car.

 

Like someone posted, if you swapped some 4.10 gears into a M6 with a 3.42 rear end, you'd be at 2000 rpm @75 mph. Not bad at all if you ask me. I'd imagine that going from your 3.23's wouldn't be much different.

 

So you aren't disagreeing with me, just don't like how I said it and had to call me names and make personal attacks??? Seems useful.

 

You know what's funny...in all this posting and back and forth, including my post hijacking, no one has answered the kid's original post question of hp approximation. I would but I don't honestly know...anyone thinking around the 300 whp range?

 

You can even go with a 4.30 gear and daily drive it if you want since we have a 6speed.

But thats if you had the right slick and RPM for such a gear to make use of it.



A gear is one of the best performance mods you can ever do to a car for the money and the gains!


Tall gears back in the day with 4 speed tranny is were all these myths came from about over gearing.

 

Well becaue its not a good combo of parts and you dont know what your going to get, but everyone can say its miss matched and wont be great.

 

Thanks for he honesty guys. the only real reason i bought the car is because i got it dirt cheap. with all those aftermarket parts, with 3k on them, i only paid 2k for this car with 79k on it, tranny and all. along with the car i ge the intreior and the trans am hatch and rear bumper, which im selling. in the end i'll probly only have $1500 or so in the motor and tranny, and this is taking place of my 3.8l, so it'l be a definate improvement from that. found out today the maf is stock, but ported to 3'

 

a 3' maf! holy crap!!! lol.

 

Porting a MAF simply destroys calibration making the pcm harder to tune.

For $2000 sounds like a good score, just understand what you have, what needs to be done to make it work, and sell off leftovers and this will work out wonderfully for you.