LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Hp estimate

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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #41  
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The maf doesnt look factory to me but i emailed the guy i got the car from and he said "The MAF is a factory custom machined 3". its all aluminum and looks aftermarket to me
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 09:55 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
So you aren't disagreeing with me, just don't like how I said it and had to call me names and make personal attacks??? Seems useful.
No doubt your diagnoses of the setup was correct. Just don't agree with the way you conduct your words towards people.
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ChevyMaxx
The maf doesnt look factory to me but i emailed the guy i got the car from and he said "The MAF is a factory custom machined 3". its all aluminum and looks aftermarket to me
There are stores on ebay that sell maf's like that. Never underestimate stupid people, theyll getcha evry time haha. I wouldent even use it to be honest.
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:20 PM
  #44  
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would a granatelli motorsports maf be any better? i got one of those also
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #45  
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No those are bad too, at best they make tuning harder, sometimes almost impossible and the electronics in them are highly unreliable.

A completely stock MAF with screen is actually the best choice for most builds.

Almost anything can be made to work but is rarely worth the effort in tuning they cause.
It is a sensor, all it has to do is accurately report airflow to the pcm without being a restriction. If you start porting them or things like that the pcm can no longer accurately interperet the information unless you go back and reprogram the pcm for that exact modification, not something that can be easily done.

The sensor works by heating resistors to a set resistance the frequency of the signal needed to get that reisistance is what the pcm sees. Porting it or changing the internal opening atall will slow the air for any given flow which will endup causing less cooling to the resistors and the pcm wont be able to "see" that additional airflow. It can be reprogrammed, but since the stock sensor is NOT a restriction till far above the power you are headed for it would all just be a waste of effort.

I have tried some other MAFs and would not recommend any of them over stock just yet.
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 04:12 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
No those are bad too, at best they make tuning harder, sometimes almost impossible and the electronics in them are highly unreliable.

A completely stock MAF with screen is actually the best choice for most builds.

Almost anything can be made to work but is rarely worth the effort in tuning they cause.
It is a sensor, all it has to do is accurately report airflow to the pcm without being a restriction. If you start porting them or things like that the pcm can no longer accurately interperet the information unless you go back and reprogram the pcm for that exact modification, not something that can be easily done.

The sensor works by heating resistors to a set resistance the frequency of the signal needed to get that reisistance is what the pcm sees. Porting it or changing the internal opening atall will slow the air for any given flow which will endup causing less cooling to the resistors and the pcm wont be able to "see" that additional airflow. It can be reprogrammed, but since the stock sensor is NOT a restriction till far above the power you are headed for it would all just be a waste of effort.

I have tried some other MAFs and would not recommend any of them over stock just yet.
He's right.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 02:48 AM
  #47  
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i never really got a good answer to my question.. im still working on this build, and wondering what i can expect for hp when its done, and what little things i can change (dont have much money right now) to help it out? I dont care if you think it'll be a turd when its done just gie me some honest answers afterall i got this motor for a hell of a steal in the first place. thanks
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 07:48 AM
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I'd say 350 to the wheels through a T56.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 08:50 AM
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If I did a gear swap on my 97 cam/full bolt on car ( cam is a GM846) how could I strengthen the stock rear so that i don't blow it to bits, i know the girdle is helpful, any other parts I could use? Links to them?
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by phirepower
If I did a gear swap on my 97 cam/full bolt on car ( cam is a GM846) how could I strengthen the stock rear so that i don't blow it to bits, i know the girdle is helpful, any other parts I could use? Links to them?
Save your money for a good 12 bolt...
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
Save your money for a good 12 bolt...
x2

With a t56 and that much power, don't waste your money on trying to build up the stock 10-bolt.. 10-bolts are only known to live much longer lives behind the 4L60e, not the beastly t-56
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