Rod Bolts and Head Bolts
Rod Bolts
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/134-6003/10002/-1
Head Bolts
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/134-3601/10002/-1
The way you can tell if you have pink rods or PM rods is that the pink rods have a flattened 'weight' area on the top of the rod cap. If the top of the rod caps are smooth with no machined flat rectangular weight than you have PM rods.
The head bolts you posted are the correct ones for a LT1. You can also get them in a half-stainless half-black oxide kit that has all the external block bolts in stainless.
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So this means I have the pink rods? Wich are much stronger if I remember correcty?
!!!!! And, yes, I have run itno that situation as well, so it is first hand experience.
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If you choose the rod bolts and then there is a rod bearing problem he will blame your parts. Let him choose and he has to be a little more objective IF there is a problem.
If it is an ARP bolt, and comes in an ARP package and is installed by the machinist and fails he knows he needs to bring the issue up with ARP. For him to blame an application specific part means you should never use the guy as your machinist in the first place.
ARP came out with the 6005 rod bolts so that they didn't have the problem of 'eating' at the cap-side of a PM rod the way the 6003 bolts tend to do after repeated disassembly/assembly.
If it is an ARP bolt, and comes in an ARP package and is installed by the machinist and fails he knows he needs to bring the issue up with ARP. For him to blame an application specific part means you should never use the guy as your machinist in the first place.
ARP came out with the 6005 rod bolts so that they didn't have the problem of 'eating' at the cap-side of a PM rod the way the 6003 bolts tend to do after repeated disassembly/assembly.
They are just different enough from an SBC to get you in trouble, and it has happened to many people. The famous 10.0:1CR or less LT1 rebuild is a great example.






