VERY Disappointed in Track Times
05-15-2009, 10:11 AM
#21
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I had a similar deal with my first track run with my LE2...shifted at 6k with a bad AFR and knock retard of a few degrees...but I still ran a 8.4 in the 1/8
Last edited by ws6_z28; 05-15-2009 at 11:34 AM.
05-15-2009, 10:45 AM
#22
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Did he readjust you PE tables after he fixed you ve tables?
Do you have a widband?
What afr does it run at wot?
Have you messed with the rocker adjustment?
Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on the engine and made a pull down the street to make sure its not a fuel pump dieing out?
How many miles on the engine?
Have you pulled a valve cover off to check for any broken springs?
What does the oil look like?
Start there.
Do you have a widband?
What afr does it run at wot?
Have you messed with the rocker adjustment?
Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on the engine and made a pull down the street to make sure its not a fuel pump dieing out?
How many miles on the engine?
Have you pulled a valve cover off to check for any broken springs?
What does the oil look like?
Start there.
AFR was around 13.0 +/- 0.1
No have not messed with the rocker adjustment.
Fuel pressure was around 43-44
Engine has 88K on the stock bottom end.
Have not checked for broken springs.
Oil is always clean and I just changed it before I took it to the track.
See, that's what leads me to believe there is something else wrong. It just doesn't feel like it is making power. Next test and tune is in 2 weeks so I'm gonna try a few things and next time shift that bastard at 6500
05-15-2009, 10:51 AM
#23
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although i do agree that shifting higher will help, I do not think that this is the only problem. I wouldn't think that a little short shifting would make you lose a whole second.
05-15-2009, 11:12 AM
#24
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That is messed up, a couple of years back I had a best of 13.27 at 110.4 mph on a stock motor with nothing but headers, intake, exhaust, and 3.90 gears in a 9" rear, shifting at 5800, on the stock tune. My car must be a freak, but the next run I snapped the driveshaft slamming 4th gear about 200 ft before the line, slammed on the brakes and still ran a 14.1 at 101.1 mph and still beat the mustang I was running, lol. Since then, I have never drag raced again, I almost hit the wall after the line, scarred me to death.
05-15-2009, 11:50 AM
#25
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Yes I have a LM-1 in the Y pipe.
AFR was around 13.0 +/- 0.1
No have not messed with the rocker adjustment.
Fuel pressure was around 43-44
Engine has 88K on the stock bottom end.
Have not checked for broken springs.
Oil is always clean and I just changed it before I took it to the track.
See, that's what leads me to believe there is something else wrong. It just doesn't feel like it is making power. Next test and tune is in 2 weeks so I'm gonna try a few things and next time shift that bastard at 6500
AFR was around 13.0 +/- 0.1
No have not messed with the rocker adjustment.
Fuel pressure was around 43-44
Engine has 88K on the stock bottom end.
Have not checked for broken springs.
Oil is always clean and I just changed it before I took it to the track.
See, that's what leads me to believe there is something else wrong. It just doesn't feel like it is making power. Next test and tune is in 2 weeks so I'm gonna try a few things and next time shift that bastard at 6500
05-15-2009, 03:54 PM
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Well, since no one else is going to ask: Did you run the car at the same track as the previous owner or a different one?
Whta is the elevation of the track, and are your #'s corrected or uncorrected?
Did the car put down the 403rwhp with a 10 bolt or the Dana 60?
You should trap a Minimum of 113 with that kind of power on a low altitude track with decent air and medium temperatures.
Whta is the elevation of the track, and are your #'s corrected or uncorrected?
Did the car put down the 403rwhp with a 10 bolt or the Dana 60?
You should trap a Minimum of 113 with that kind of power on a low altitude track with decent air and medium temperatures.
05-15-2009, 04:33 PM
#30
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Well, since no one else is going to ask: Did you run the car at the same track as the previous owner or a different one?
Whta is the elevation of the track, and are your #'s corrected or uncorrected?
Did the car put down the 403rwhp with a 10 bolt or the Dana 60?
You should trap a Minimum of 113 with that kind of power on a low altitude track with decent air and medium temperatures.
Whta is the elevation of the track, and are your #'s corrected or uncorrected?
Did the car put down the 403rwhp with a 10 bolt or the Dana 60?
You should trap a Minimum of 113 with that kind of power on a low altitude track with decent air and medium temperatures.
05-15-2009, 04:54 PM
#31
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Well, since no one else is going to ask:
Did you run the car at the same track as the previous owner or a different one? No, he ran the car in Chicago and the car was ran here in KS.
Whta is the elevation of the track, and are your #'s corrected or uncorrected? Don't know the elevation. It was at HPT in Topeka, KS
Did the car put down the 403rwhp with a 10 bolt or the Dana 60?
10 bolt
You should trap a Minimum of 113 with that kind of power on a low altitude track with decent air and medium temperatures.
Did you run the car at the same track as the previous owner or a different one? No, he ran the car in Chicago and the car was ran here in KS.
Whta is the elevation of the track, and are your #'s corrected or uncorrected? Don't know the elevation. It was at HPT in Topeka, KS
Did the car put down the 403rwhp with a 10 bolt or the Dana 60?
10 bolt
You should trap a Minimum of 113 with that kind of power on a low altitude track with decent air and medium temperatures.
05-15-2009, 05:27 PM
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Well, if your track in Kansas is high elevation in comparison to Chicago, there's the strast to your problem.
Figure out the track elev., and then get online to one of those correction calculators and it will correct your times for you.
The Dana 60 is going to decrease your rwhp in comparison to a 10 bolt some, and putting 4:10's in it will probably just increase your issues with traction, killing your 60'.
Start with the track elev.
Figure out the track elev., and then get online to one of those correction calculators and it will correct your times for you.
The Dana 60 is going to decrease your rwhp in comparison to a 10 bolt some, and putting 4:10's in it will probably just increase your issues with traction, killing your 60'.
Start with the track elev.
05-15-2009, 05:33 PM
#33
yep get trap speed up and et will come...your down on power...tune probably...and shift higher...shift at 6800 or so according to your tach...thats really about 6500...if your shifting at 6k on your stock tach your reallly shifting about 5700 WAYYYY TOOOO LOOWWW
05-15-2009, 05:44 PM
#34
For optimal track times you want to shift a couple/few hundred rpm's beyond peak. In your case you want to shift the car in the 6500-6600rpm range. Keep in mind the stock tach is off so I would rev that thing to about 6800 via the tach which would more than likely be around 6500rpm actual. I picked up 5mph once when I boosted my shift points a couple hundred rpm, you would be suprised how much that makes a difference. Keep in mind with shifting so low like you are now, your rpm's are dropping way lower than optimal every time you shift the car which isn't putting you in your powerband as well as if you were shifting higher. I bet you will trap a solid 5-8mph more if you do like I say and this is from my own trial and error. I would suggest you run the car shifting it where it needs to be and see what it does. If it still isn't performing up to par then you have some other issues to work out, good luck and nice car!
05-16-2009, 08:35 AM
#36
230* of duration probably should shift at 6400rpm(or more - stock bottom end probably isn't the best match for that cam) to realize the potential of the cam. If the car makes 400hp at 6300rpm, and you shift 300rpm shy of that, you're never realizing the full horsepower, and when you shift early you put the motor even lower in the powerband, and further hold yourself back. For a 6300rpm peak, I'd say you'd want to be shifting at 6500rpm (assuming the rest of the setup tolerates that.) to fall back into good power in the next gear.
I bet there is at least .6-.8 of your ET, and more importantly 6-9mph your missing right there.
I bet there is at least .6-.8 of your ET, and more importantly 6-9mph your missing right there.
Whhhhaaat? My 254@.050 solid roller peaks at 6600 rpm, again, where do you get your info???????
A .230@050 cam can peak all over the place in different combos, there is no SET peak for a certain duration camshaft.
05-16-2009, 08:39 AM
#37
To the original poster, find out the DA of the previous owners pass(time of year at what track etc) versus your DA on your best pass.
Also go drive the car under WOT with a scan tool and look at knock retard. Make sure you dont have a loose bracket or ex banging under the car to set off the knock retard.
And lastly, take what you read on the net with a grain of salt. Most is just regurgitated bullshit thats been read somewhere else.
BTW there is a sight on the net you can go to if you have the date and time off the owners timeslip and the track it was run at to find EXACTLY what the DA was at the time of the run.
Also go drive the car under WOT with a scan tool and look at knock retard. Make sure you dont have a loose bracket or ex banging under the car to set off the knock retard.
And lastly, take what you read on the net with a grain of salt. Most is just regurgitated bullshit thats been read somewhere else.
BTW there is a sight on the net you can go to if you have the date and time off the owners timeslip and the track it was run at to find EXACTLY what the DA was at the time of the run.
05-16-2009, 08:58 AM
#38
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Best guesses on a good shift point and a good AFR are made based on some limited information the OP has made. Its a fair bet that a 230*@.05 duration cam is going to peak north of 6200rpm, shifting at 6600rpm would keep his runs centered around the peak. I don't have his dyno sheet, I don't know exactly where that peak is, or how hard it falls after peak, he's gonna have to do his own research and review of the data, and make a decision based on that and what he trusts spinning his bottom end to.
An NA motor likes AFRs around 13:1, thats a given. He was running pig rich and faster before, his tuner leaned him out significantly, and he feels he's lost power as a result. Best guess is that he's now on the lean side - his reading of 13:1 could be impacted by a ton of different stuff and isn't the only factor to consider. If the car was faster when it was when it burning his eyes rich, it sounds like they may have slimmed things down past optimal and are on the lean side. You add some knock retard for the lean combustion or any number of other things and your really slowing down.
To the OP - everything on the internet is a best guess - unless you've got the car and your tools to work/scan/test on it right there its all just ideas and thoughts about possibilities. That is what you posted this for - some ideas. To summarize, a best guess based on what you've told us so far is that your defintely shifting too low given your cam selection, and you very well may be lean/and or into some knock retard since having your tune messed with. Anybody disagree?
05-16-2009, 09:26 AM
#39
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Alright guys, I don't want you all to be bickering over this. I really do appreciate all of your info and am doing some researching right now as it is.
I am definetly going to look at knock retard because I think I've got a header knocking somewhere.
I am definetly going to look at knock retard because I think I've got a header knocking somewhere.
