considering a stall..whats the best bang for the buck that is still tolerable as a daily driver??

 

i have a ss3600 in mine daily driven. havent had any problems

 

The TC is not a part to skimp on. When It comes time for me to get a TC im going Yank. either the SS3600 or SS4000. They are $725

 

yank is the way to go. i just wish i would have bought the SS4000. Room to grow

 

won't you feel even slower from a roll with a stall that big?

 

can someone give me a quick crash course on TC's/Stalls...is there a diff? or does every torque converter just have some varying degree of stall?

i found one on jegs that says something to the effect of having to hold the brakes harder when stopped. i know i'm being an idiot..but i need a crash course...i thought a high stall meant the engine would spin freely up to whatever stall speed you have...then it would catch...kinda like poppin the clutch in a m6.

 

I with the two guys above.

 

about us saying use the ss3600/ss400 or saying you need info about it or it driving sluggish from a roll.

 

is it true?

 

mine doesnt feel slugish to me. But when you put that big of a stall you put the gears to go along with it and you are good to go on a roll.

 

gears are next on my list once my engine is back together.

 

A torque converter is what it's called, some just say stall for short. A torque converter has a stall speed. That is the point where it starts to hold tighter, but it will still hold below that rpm. So no, it's not like dropping a clutch and you wont have to go up to that rpm to take off. As for what the jegs magazine said, never heard of that before. When you are stopped you will actually not have to press as hard on the brakes to hold the car from rolling because the TC isnt holding as tight at that low of a rpm. As far as roll racing it will not make it slugish at all. You will see a greater improvement from lower rpm rolls and still some improvement over high rpm rolls. Like said above, a TC is not a place to skimp out on. If you cant afford to get a good one then save up till its in the budget. What are your mods as of now and what are your future mods that you have planned? There is many variables in choosing the right stall for you. There is varation in the size of the TC, stall speed, tightness or looseness, bearings, material TC is made of, etc. I do recomend that even if you have no mods and no future mods planned, get a bare minimum stall speed of 2800rpms. I ran a Hughes Racing 3000stall in my 4l60e and loved it but still whish i had gone with a 3500. Now i run a Circle D Specialties 4C (4000stall) in my TH350 and im about to get it restalled to a 5C (5000stall) while swapping to a PG. Just let us know and we'll help ya out.

P.S. Sorry for the long post.

 

To add to 95z28, you may need to get the transmission section of your PCM tuned for the larger stall. A stock t/c stalls at 1600-1800, so you are already running one. The larger stall just lets you get into the meat of the powerband quicker. One of the reasons that everyone says get a good one is this: The t/c shares fluid with the tranny. If the t/c lets go, there goes your tranny as well.
I am currently running a 3400 stall. It is nice, but a bit small for my tastes. My new tranny has a 4000 stall, and I suspect it will be more to my liking. But it is a somewhat modified engine; they go hand-in-hand.

 

Edge id stick with

 

But if you get that large of a stall and do a lot of cruising under the stall speed it will generate a lot of heat which inturn will cause damage right?

 

This is directly proportional to the quality of the converter. If you utilize a good cooler and a good converter, this will not be a problem. However, if you do NOT install an aftermarket cooler and use a cheap stall, you will generate mass amounts of heat.

 

A tranny cooler is a must when you have a high stall converter! Shoot I even put one on my Rebuilt stocker and built trans. When I do a better trans and Yank converter Im going to go with a bigger cooler with a small fan on it.

 

IMO Edge is the ticket particularly if budget is a concern. For about $525 you get a nice converter. Yank and Vig are both very nice too but the billet covers cost a couple hundred to machine hence the extra couple hundred dollar price tag.

I have a 3400 Edge and it drives quite well.

The ideas about high stall be sloppy at low speeds and terrible about building heat are based on OLD stuff or cheap stuff.

I don't have any heat troubles atall, if anything the tranny runs cooler than I would like it too most of the time it doesn't hit 160f.

 

Dwayne do you have a cooler on your edge converter??

 

The first 8 months I had the old 2800 Edge I ran just the factory in radiator cooler and eventually put a plate style tru-cool on is moderately sized and has a viscosity based feature that is supposed to bypass thick cold oil right back to the out line to help warmup. Through the pcm I frequently only see 150s for tranny temps.

Since my car came with an L99 and was a civilian car it did not come with a factory external cooler, if it had I would have only used that. A friend who I help with his Caprices runs a 3200 Edge with just factory coolers, he has the factory external and the in radiator cooler and still runs a 180 stat even. I don't datalog his car often but it a year round daily driver, even ran the 3200 with 3.08s for awhile. Tranny/converter is I think 4 years old now.

IMO more folks need to look at tranny temps after installing converters, modern converters slip a LOT less than older and cheaper stuff even before lockup. If folks actually watched temps I think you would see a fewer folks preaching the need for big coolers.

In Datamaster if you let it pickup tranny data it will display tranny temp.

I just use cheap Walmart fluid too, nothing fancy.