ram air or ls1 lid conversion?
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 111
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The "Fernco" is..... type lid, box...? Sorry more up on the LT side then LS. To make it work properly and most effecient, what all parts are required for this conversion? I've seen 1 or 2 conversions but some vary with some parts. If I do this I want to make real and not half assed.
Last edited by djjab57; Jun 22, 2009 at 11:38 AM.
Stock internal LTXs dont breathe enough to see a difference...hence the little to no power difference in a 58mm TB over a 52mm.
A big cam stroker is a different story, but if you are just a bolt-on LT1 a CAI is plenty, spend your money elsewhere.
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Its the cheapest mod ive done. Used lid and a fernco. Thats all you need.
To me I would go LS1 lid now rather than buy an LT1 cai then when you add a stroker or heads/cam/lt's and could really see a difference with the LS1 lid, you'll end up buying it anyway then trying to sell the LT1 cai.
If you have the stock plastic piece that goes between the radiator and abs unit then you will get a big increase when doing the ls1 lid swap.
The LS1 lid swap is cheaper then most CAI while giving you the most gains. Even if you bought everything new you still wont spend near as much as an LT1 cai. Plus it looks cooler with a lid.
The LS1 lid swap is cheaper then most CAI while giving you the most gains. Even if you bought everything new you still wont spend near as much as an LT1 cai. Plus it looks cooler with a lid.
Not to turn this into another million page long pissing match, but going by my own personal experience uncorking the 1LE elbow from my 58mm TB while on the dyno gave my H/C LT1 barely one single rwhp over leaving it going through the K&N FIPK. Well within normal tolerances and statistically insignificant. They were back to back runs within 5 minutes of each other. A lid would not only have to flow better then nothing, but would have to actually force air down the throat of an LT1 and make positive boost. Not gonna happen with just a lid, but maybe with a WS6 style ram air at 100+mph.
The gains of a lid are there, and they are real, but you need a big cammed stroker to see them, not a bolt on LT1.
I will be going to a lid setup myself on my stroker, and plan on testing the lid vs FIPK debate some more with dyno and track results on a much more potent LTX then my H/C stock shortblock
.
The gains of a lid are there, and they are real, but you need a big cammed stroker to see them, not a bolt on LT1.
I will be going to a lid setup myself on my stroker, and plan on testing the lid vs FIPK debate some more with dyno and track results on a much more potent LTX then my H/C stock shortblock
. 
Puck: Just a quick question though. Wouldn't you want a little more time in between both pulls to ensure the same conditions apply? I mean wouldn't your engine bay be producing a hell of a lot more heat (therefore sucking in MORE heated air) by the second run as compared to the first? Even with a dyno fan on it, these engine bays throw a ton of heat. I'm sure by only letting under five minutes go by between pulls, the air in there being sucked into the air intake would be hot as hell wouldn't it? I just figured that the hp gains yielded from a cai would be because of the COLD air it gets into the engine. Just a thought, I don't claim to know **** about dyno pulls btw lol.
Not to turn this into another million page long pissing match, but going by my own personal experience uncorking the 1LE elbow from my 58mm TB while on the dyno gave my H/C LT1 barely one single rwhp over leaving it going through the K&N FIPK. Well within normal tolerances and statistically insignificant. They were back to back runs within 5 minutes of each other. A lid would not only have to flow better then nothing, but would have to actually force air down the throat of an LT1 and make positive boost. Not gonna happen with just a lid, but maybe with a WS6 style ram air at 100+mph.
The gains of a lid are there, and they are real, but you need a big cammed stroker to see them, not a bolt on LT1.
I will be going to a lid setup myself on my stroker, and plan on testing the lid vs FIPK debate some more with dyno and track results on a much more potent LTX then my H/C stock shortblock.
The gains of a lid are there, and they are real, but you need a big cammed stroker to see them, not a bolt on LT1.
I will be going to a lid setup myself on my stroker, and plan on testing the lid vs FIPK debate some more with dyno and track results on a much more potent LTX then my H/C stock shortblock
.
Not to turn this into another million page long pissing match, but going by my own personal experience uncorking the 1LE elbow from my 58mm TB while on the dyno gave my H/C LT1 barely one single rwhp over leaving it going through the K&N FIPK. Well within normal tolerances and statistically insignificant. They were back to back runs within 5 minutes of each other. A lid would not only have to flow better then nothing, but would have to actually force air down the throat of an LT1 and make positive boost. Not gonna happen with just a lid, but maybe with a WS6 style ram air at 100+mph.
The gains of a lid are there, and they are real, but you need a big cammed stroker to see them, not a bolt on LT1.
I will be going to a lid setup myself on my stroker, and plan on testing the lid vs FIPK debate some more with dyno and track results on a much more potent LTX then my H/C stock shortblock .
.
There is no hassle with the LS1 lid if you have the room (sounds like you do). Buy a radiator support from an LS1 or 98+v6 fbody and buy a lid for $50 and your set. You may have to trim the bottom of the radiator support to sit lower? you will need some couplings also. Check out the latest issue of GMhightech and see the monstrous LSX they built that is using a stock style lid setup. If it can feed that nearly 500 CI motor it will be more than enough for an lt1 imho.
The LS1 Radiator Support won't fit under the stock Hood without some serious modifications.
I got the Lid and Filter to fit under my Hood by cutting a little into the Core Support and setting the Radiator back a little, and cutting the understructure of the Hood a little bit.
I got the Lid and Filter to fit under my Hood by cutting a little into the Core Support and setting the Radiator back a little, and cutting the understructure of the Hood a little bit.
Puck: Just a quick question though. Wouldn't you want a little more time in between both pulls to ensure the same conditions apply? I mean wouldn't your engine bay be producing a hell of a lot more heat (therefore sucking in MORE heated air) by the second run as compared to the first? Even with a dyno fan on it, these engine bays throw a ton of heat. I'm sure by only letting under five minutes go by between pulls, the air in there being sucked into the air intake would be hot as hell wouldn't it? I just figured that the hp gains yielded from a cai would be because of the COLD air it gets into the engine. Just a thought, I don't claim to know **** about dyno pulls btw lol.
Dave Hamburger admitted himself that the "ram air" functionality was not effective until highway speeds (I think his claim was around 60 or 70mph).
I would believe the LS1 lid to be effective on a stock engine if one was going from a stock box to the LS1 lid, but switching from an aftermarket CAI, to a lid on a relatively stock engine I totally agree there would be no noticeable difference and there has been no proof as such yet.
That would be greatly appreciated!
I would believe the LS1 lid to be effective on a stock engine if one was going from a stock box to the LS1 lid, but switching from an aftermarket CAI, to a lid on a relatively stock engine I totally agree there would be no noticeable difference and there has been no proof as such yet.
That would be greatly appreciated!
.I guess the speed that the ram air kicks in is based on the frontal area of the ram air scoop, and the 100mph figure is really what is quoted on my crotch rocket...good for around 5hp at 100 and 10hp at 130
. Not sure why it does not state what the increase is at the top speed...my guess is that the gains become filter limited at a certain mph.None of that has to do with a lid really, since it is not sealed to a front facing scoop. Personally I plan on doing a lid conversion and sealing the bottom off, with two tubes leading into the fog light holes covered by the 1LE delete louvers. Similar to what one of the users here did(name starts with an "R" I think?). I think that would be a very trick functional ram air setup!
How cool would it be to track test a lid, a CAI, and the above ram air setup both for ETs and with a MAP sensor rigged in front of the filter(to remove it as a variable) to measure any variance from 2.5v to monitor positive boost or vacuum levels???
Man, Captain Mo' sure does get the brain juices flowing
. 