LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Which forged crank for a budget 383?

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Old 07-04-2009, 11:32 AM
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www.ohiocrank.com

For real!
Old 07-04-2009, 12:06 PM
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96Caprice yes the seats were replaced in my heads in order to use the 2.02 valves and for the reasons you described I chose Scat over Eagle, my engine builder has run into the same issues with many of the Eagle cranks being out of round from journal to journal and having to turn them to get them straight which adds to the cost of the build. He has had a few of these same issuse with Scat as well just not as many so on his recomendation I'm going with Scat for my budget buildup.
Also I priced the same kit with the 9000 cast crank and it was $1288 shipped to my door and as I said $300 is cheap insurance to me for the peace of mind knowing I can beat on it as much as I want without fear.
Old 07-04-2009, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
I love how stuff is repeated on the net, ANY machinist should check the same things on every build.

I would bet there are MORE Eagle rotating assemblies sold than any other, I know ALOT of car with them. And they work just fine.
Originally Posted by 97Z28SS
for the reasons you described I chose Scat over Eagle, my engine builder has run into the same issues with many of the Eagle cranks being out of round from journal to journal and having to turn them to get them straight which adds to the cost of the build. He has had a few of these same issuse with Scat as well just not as many so on his recomendation I'm going with Scat for my budget buildup.
Also I priced the same kit with the 9000 cast crank and it was $1288 shipped to my door and as I said $300 is cheap insurance to me for the peace of mind knowing I can beat on it as much as I want without fear.
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Eagle just has dimensional and balancing issues. If you are lucky and get a good one great for you, but it is fairly common for them to need machining or to be hard to balance which pushes the cost up to a Compstar level in a big hurry.

Don't trust me, trust the guys selling motors with them.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11841220-post14.html
Eagle is popular because it is cheap not because it is a good value.

All well covered.
Yes every crank should be CHECKED but having to machine a new crank beyond balancing means you bought ****. Personally If I am going to buy a crank for $500 then spend $100 regrinding it then have it be harder to balance more $$$ I would rather spend the $650 or whatever it is on a Compstar, hell buy the speedpack and let Callies balance it and have your machininst check that.
Old 08-10-2011, 12:45 AM
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Do you use Ohio Cranks?? Are they good stuff because im interested on a 3.75.
Old 08-10-2011, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by pr_lt1
Do you use Ohio Cranks?? Are they good stuff because im interested on a 3.75.
I have one with about 2500 miles in my 383.
Old 08-10-2011, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Eagle just has dimensional and balancing issues. If you are lucky and get a good one great for you, but it is fairly common for them to need machining or to be hard to balance which pushes the cost up to a Compstar level in a big hurry.
Both of the last forged Eagle cranks I used had to have some heavy balancing done. I had to have a ton of metal taken out of the front and back.
Old 08-10-2011, 08:55 AM
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A stock crank is strong enough to do what you want to do. Get some good rods and better pistons and use the money you saved for a set of.heads
Old 08-10-2011, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 96TransAmboosted
A stock crank is strong enough to do what you want to do. Get some good rods and better pistons and use the money you saved for a set of.heads
Not only is this thread 2 years old, but you can't make a 383 with a stock crank.
Old 08-10-2011, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Puck
Not only is this thread 2 years old, but you can't make a 383 with a stock crank.
Pffft.. bore that **** out to .183. No problem!
Old 08-10-2011, 11:10 AM
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My 4340 eagle balanced easily and nicely with eagle h beams and SRP pistons.. Minimal metal removed front and back And no journals were outta round according to the local speed/machine shop . Cost me $600 to the door and $250 for balanceing and to be checked over,$150 for new rings uncluding filing the gaps for nitrous, $160 for main and rod bearings, $250 to build shortblock ... Ofcourse there was block prep cost before all this.. It adds up no doubt
Old 08-10-2011, 05:03 PM
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Ive only had problems with Cast steel Eagle cranks, the non-twist 4340 steels ones Ive used had no issues whatsoever.



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