umm issue here!
What many people don't realize is that the LT1 crank hub ISN'T a big, open-holed piece, like a regular SBC is. The opening in the hub is only a tad larger than the diameter of the bolt that holds it in place, so you can't put the little "button" inside it that comes with every puller.
I have a "poor boy" puller/installer that works just fine. You need a 7" long piece of threaded rod, the same thread as the crank bolt. IIRC, it's 7/16-20. At one end, lock together two hex nuts, so you have something to hold with a wrench, to keep the rod from turning. You'll also need another hex nut of the same thread, 3 5/16" bolts about 2" long and corresponding hex nuts, and a few flat washers.
To remove the pulley, you'll also need the 3 eared portion of a standard pulley remover. Remove the bolt from the crank. Take the 3 eared puller, place it over the threaded rod, place a couple washers on the rod, and then a 7/16 hex nut. Thread the nut down a bit, then thread the rod, with the whole deal on it, into the crank pulley. Put the 3 5/16 bolts through the 3 ears of the puller, and through the 3 ears of the crank pulley, then put a washer or two on each bolt, and then add a hex nut on the 3 bolts.
Now, by holding the locked together nuts on the end of the threaded rod with one wrench, and turning the single 7/16" hex nut that's against the 3 eared puller with another wrench, you can push the puller forward, pulling the hub off the crank.
To install the hub, loosely place the hub on the crank. Put a bunch of flat washers over the end of the threaded rod, because the hub is kind of deep. Make sure the hex nut is on before the washers. Thread the rod, with the washers in place, into the crank. Hold the locked nuts with one wrench, turn the single hex nut with a second wrench, pushing the hub in place.
I have a "poor boy" puller/installer that works just fine. You need a 7" long piece of threaded rod, the same thread as the crank bolt. IIRC, it's 7/16-20. At one end, lock together two hex nuts, so you have something to hold with a wrench, to keep the rod from turning. You'll also need another hex nut of the same thread, 3 5/16" bolts about 2" long and corresponding hex nuts, and a few flat washers.
To remove the pulley, you'll also need the 3 eared portion of a standard pulley remover. Remove the bolt from the crank. Take the 3 eared puller, place it over the threaded rod, place a couple washers on the rod, and then a 7/16 hex nut. Thread the nut down a bit, then thread the rod, with the whole deal on it, into the crank pulley. Put the 3 5/16 bolts through the 3 ears of the puller, and through the 3 ears of the crank pulley, then put a washer or two on each bolt, and then add a hex nut on the 3 bolts.
Now, by holding the locked together nuts on the end of the threaded rod with one wrench, and turning the single 7/16" hex nut that's against the 3 eared puller with another wrench, you can push the puller forward, pulling the hub off the crank.
To install the hub, loosely place the hub on the crank. Put a bunch of flat washers over the end of the threaded rod, because the hub is kind of deep. Make sure the hex nut is on before the washers. Thread the rod, with the washers in place, into the crank. Hold the locked nuts with one wrench, turn the single hex nut with a second wrench, pushing the hub in place.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Norman Oklahoma
leadfoot, you are the man.....so we called the local american camaro and firebird in the city, and he let us use his home made strange contraption and it worked, he said after years of efiin with them he made this device, dunno what he calls it but it was awesome