over heating problem
#1
over heating problem
after putting my engine back in the car for some reason now im having a over heating problem, at first fas were not working and i wired them to ign. so fans work, water pump is working as well. car is over heating while sitting still if i start driving temp goes down. any idea?
#3
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ft. Rucker / Tuscaloosa, Alabama
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I had the SAME problem.. so I put in a 160 and it is MUCH more resistant to heating up when I'm in traffic. It runs a lot cooler driving around town, just up off the 160 mark on the gauge. I mean, its still going to heat up some if you're just sitting there, but imo its a must. do it
#5
yea got alot to do with the water pump, been thinking about getting me a eletric water pump. i havent tried to change the thermostat yet, prob do it today. hoping thats the problem.
#7
yea i tryed to bleed the system, im sure i did it right but still over heating, not sure why the fans werent working, they were fine til i dropped the motor. im going to try to bleed it again and change to a 160, dont think thats going to work but maybe ill get lucky. the temp has been getting around 210, sometimes stays there and times it will get hotter and water will start coming out the spare tank
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#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
yea i tryed to bleed the system, im sure i did it right but still over heating, not sure why the fans werent working, they were fine til i dropped the motor. im going to try to bleed it again and change to a 160, dont think thats going to work but maybe ill get lucky. the temp has been getting around 210, sometimes stays there and times it will get hotter and water will start coming out the spare tank
As the stock programming is set, the fans don't come on until 226*/235* for the low/high speed fans.
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (11)
I don't think its anything to do with that since he says it cools down at speed. If there was air in the system it would be getting hot regardless.
Though, based on his subsequent reply I think he is just confused about what normal temp is.
210-220 isn't overheating, though it is a lot hotter than many people like to run their cars. 160 thermo and reprogrammed fans or fan switch help with that.
Though, based on his subsequent reply I think he is just confused about what normal temp is.
210-220 isn't overheating, though it is a lot hotter than many people like to run their cars. 160 thermo and reprogrammed fans or fan switch help with that.
#11
Fans weren't working I hooked them up to the igniton so now they stay on while the key is turned, why does it steem when I park, I can hear it steeming and water starts boiling and comes out the tank.
#12
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
I had that happen once and I had a leaky hose and a bad radiator cap.
I would pick up a pressure tester and look to see if it holds pressure.
#13
last night went for a drive, as the temp got to 225 and i shut the car off, heard in the front of the car boiling water. fans were working also. im thinking about taking it to get flushed out good see what happens.
#14
any work done where the cooling system was drained / filled ? when i first got the car i had a problem with it overheating. the ****** i bought it from at the lot didn't know that you have to bleed the cooling system. theres two screws you turn and run the car until all the air bubbles come out. what it is is air pockets get in the cooling system and cause it to cool unevenly, so parts are too hot and others aren't. the air pushes up and the coolant overflows.
#15
I'm going to guess that your car overheats at temps close to 220, that's not normal, your radiatorcap is the the culprit for this, my lt1 gets to 230 on a hot day withought boiling over.
#16
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
Flushing the system won't hurt, but I would get a pressure tester first, see if it holding pressure.
That's a good idea, a new cap is cheap and its a quick test. I had the same problem a few years back.
#17
Nothing else would cause your coolant to boil up at 220, its your radiator cap, don't waste time and money trying different things, if your caps fine witch its not going to be, check your heater hoses for cracks or leaks, this is a pressure issue.
Last edited by lt1phantom791; 06-11-2009 at 04:25 PM.
#19
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Join Date: May 2009
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I currently have the exact same thing going on, with my 97 T/A... so far changed T-stat (180), radiator cap, upper and lower radiator hoses, and temp sending unit. But I did not check the heater hoses... did not seem to be damaged @ all, but I did not look closely enough I guess. I tried to test the pressure of radiator, but as I started pumping air, there was no preesure reading. The Oil looks fine, no white smoke out the exhaust, so I am ruling out a blown gasket for now. The water pump looks fairly new just eyeballin it. When I bled the system, I heard air hissing out the bleed valves while filling the tank, but no water coming out. The only thing left to do I guess is flush the system. I just picked it up a few weeks ago, 160k on the clock...drives very strong. This is getting too be real frustrating for me lol as I am ready to drive it w/o worrying ya know?
#20
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
I currently have the exact same thing going on, with my 97 T/A... so far changed T-stat (180), radiator cap, upper and lower radiator hoses, and temp sending unit. But I did not check the heater hoses... did not seem to be damaged @ all, but I did not look closely enough I guess. I tried to test the pressure of radiator, but as I started pumping air, there was no preesure reading. The Oil looks fine, no white smoke out the exhaust, so I am ruling out a blown gasket for now. The water pump looks fairly new just eyeballin it. When I bled the system, I heard air hissing out the bleed valves while filling the tank, but no water coming out. The only thing left to do I guess is flush the system. I just picked it up a few weeks ago, 160k on the clock...drives very strong. This is getting too be real frustrating for me lol as I am ready to drive it w/o worrying ya know?