opinions on these rockers???
#1
opinions on these rockers???
i just bought these scorpion rollers, 1.7 ration 3/8 stud
wat u think about them??
http://scorpionperformance.com/newsi...category_id=73
wat u think about them??
http://scorpionperformance.com/newsi...category_id=73
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
i just bought these scorpion rollers, 1.7 ration 3/8 stud
wat u think about them??
http://scorpionperformance.com/newsi...category_id=73
wat u think about them??
http://scorpionperformance.com/newsi...category_id=73
You will need better springs, hardened pushrods, and I always recommend using ARP rocker arm studs.
#4
i have in my possession the comp XFI 292 cam, beehive springs,and the heads are already ARP'd , my pushrods are 7.200, idk if theyre hardned or not, but should i get 7.300's to be on the safe side with that cam??, nothing has called for longer pushrods but idk
#6
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
242/248 .584/.579 113
I would only put that cam in a 383+ cube motor.
With 1.7 rr's the lift would be .661/656...you'd need a crazy spring kit to handle that kind of lift...not to mention the best heads/intake combo you can get to flow efficiently at that amount of lift.
You should take a step back and analyze what your goals are and buy parts accordingly that work together, don't just throw a bunch of parts together and hope it turns out well.
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#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
You would need an adjustable pushrod and either a solid lifter or a test spring. You should be able to get all of the above from Comp.
You need to use the "sharpie method" to observe the wipe pattern accross the valve stem. Search for determining push rod length and you should find all you need.
You need to use the "sharpie method" to observe the wipe pattern accross the valve stem. Search for determining push rod length and you should find all you need.
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (12)
XFI 292
242/248 .584/.579 113
I would only put that cam in a 383+ cube motor.
With 1.7 rr's the lift would be .661/656...you'd need a crazy spring kit to handle that kind of lift...not to mention the best heads/intake combo you can get to flow efficiently at that amount of lift.
242/248 .584/.579 113
I would only put that cam in a 383+ cube motor.
With 1.7 rr's the lift would be .661/656...you'd need a crazy spring kit to handle that kind of lift...not to mention the best heads/intake combo you can get to flow efficiently at that amount of lift.
I would not even think about it.
#11
its a forged 383 ci motor, i got a single plane intake for it, stainless valves,guideplates, beehives,all the good head hardware, just no portwork "yet" and about the pushrods, i have a checker i just dont know if i should get "longer" ones or not??
im not playing around with this engine! sum mouthy people need to be taught a lesson around here, plus itll be fun to drive!
im not playing around with this engine! sum mouthy people need to be taught a lesson around here, plus itll be fun to drive!
#12
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
its a forged 383 ci motor, i got a single plane intake for it, stainless valves,guideplates, beehives,all the good head hardware, just no portwork "yet" and about the pushrods, i have a checker i just dont know if i should get "longer" ones or not??
im not playing around with this engine! sum mouthy people need to be taught a lesson around here, plus itll be fun to drive!
im not playing around with this engine! sum mouthy people need to be taught a lesson around here, plus itll be fun to drive!
With a nice set of 1.6 rr's the lift of that cam would be .628/.618. You might even think about a nice set of 1.52 ratio Comp Pro Mags. But I'd ask whoever is porting your heads about your valvetrain requireemnts.
You need an adj push rod AND either a solid lifter or a test spring to measure for proper push rod length. You need to use the "sharpie method" to observe the wipe pattern on the valve stems. Only then will you know if you need longer or shorter pushrods, not before.
#13
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
You live an hour and a half from the best LT1 topend shop there is, why not take advantage of that.
The XFI lobes are HARD to control you will only make them harder to control by going 1.7s.
You are pretty much guaranteed to need longer valves to get enough spring in there to control that hell maybe even just to get retainer to seal clearance.
The single plane IF choosen properly might bring the rpm needs of that cam down. For now though stock heads are going to choke it LOW in the rpm range.
The XFI lobes are HARD to control you will only make them harder to control by going 1.7s.
You are pretty much guaranteed to need longer valves to get enough spring in there to control that hell maybe even just to get retainer to seal clearance.
The single plane IF choosen properly might bring the rpm needs of that cam down. For now though stock heads are going to choke it LOW in the rpm range.
#14
You live an hour and a half from the best LT1 topend shop there is, why not take advantage of that.
The XFI lobes are HARD to control you will only make them harder to control by going 1.7s.
You are pretty much guaranteed to need longer valves to get enough spring in there to control that hell maybe even just to get retainer to seal clearance.
The single plane IF choosen properly might bring the rpm needs of that cam down. For now though stock heads are going to choke it LOW in the rpm range.
The XFI lobes are HARD to control you will only make them harder to control by going 1.7s.
You are pretty much guaranteed to need longer valves to get enough spring in there to control that hell maybe even just to get retainer to seal clearance.
The single plane IF choosen properly might bring the rpm needs of that cam down. For now though stock heads are going to choke it LOW in the rpm range.
#15
Definitely invest a lot of money on your heads. They will be the key to making hp.
With a nice set of 1.6 rr's the lift of that cam would be .628/.618. You might even think about a nice set of 1.52 ratio Comp Pro Mags. But I'd ask whoever is porting your heads about your valvetrain requireemnts.
You need an adj push rod AND either a solid lifter or a test spring to measure for proper push rod length. You need to use the "sharpie method" to observe the wipe pattern on the valve stems. Only then will you know if you need longer or shorter pushrods, not before.
With a nice set of 1.6 rr's the lift of that cam would be .628/.618. You might even think about a nice set of 1.52 ratio Comp Pro Mags. But I'd ask whoever is porting your heads about your valvetrain requireemnts.
You need an adj push rod AND either a solid lifter or a test spring to measure for proper push rod length. You need to use the "sharpie method" to observe the wipe pattern on the valve stems. Only then will you know if you need longer or shorter pushrods, not before.
#20
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Definitely invest a lot of money on your heads. They will be the key to making hp.
With a nice set of 1.6 rr's the lift of that cam would be .628/.618. You might even think about a nice set of 1.52 ratio Comp Pro Mags. But I'd ask whoever is porting your heads about your valvetrain requireemnts.
You need an adj push rod AND either a solid lifter or a test spring to measure for proper push rod length. You need to use the "sharpie method" to observe the wipe pattern on the valve stems. Only then will you know if you need longer or shorter pushrods, not before.
With a nice set of 1.6 rr's the lift of that cam would be .628/.618. You might even think about a nice set of 1.52 ratio Comp Pro Mags. But I'd ask whoever is porting your heads about your valvetrain requireemnts.
You need an adj push rod AND either a solid lifter or a test spring to measure for proper push rod length. You need to use the "sharpie method" to observe the wipe pattern on the valve stems. Only then will you know if you need longer or shorter pushrods, not before.