LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 Car wont start!!

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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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Default LT1 Car wont start!!

My car has been perfect starting on a cold start, but on a hot/warm start, it just lags alot. OK, so yesterday, I got pulled over for 82 in a 30...I'll tell that story later, but I didnt get a ticket..

So I go to start the car, and it doesnt start, me and the cop pop the hood, he unplugs the MAF, and it runs, but pretty rough. I dont mean rough as in something was broken, but something electronically controlled type thing.

So, I was like, HAH, need a MAF. I buy a MAF today, disconnect the battery, and take the Old MAF loose, and put it all back together, and no damned luck. She wont start.


Its getting fuel, I can smell it strong.


Optispark anyone?
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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Classic ICM heat-soak. Replace the ICM, as they are very susceptible to heat-soak, often resulting in hard-starting hot conditions. While you're at it, put a few washers on the coil bracket mounting studs to move the ICM away from the cylinder head to promote better cooling.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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See, I drove it home with the MAF unhooked and it drove like trash (DUH) so it almost seemed fitting that on a 15 mile drive it "used" a 1/4 tank, so I was thinking this thing is super loaded up (FLOODED).


ICM, what is that? and if I let the car sit for a bit, will it start again?

Ignition Control Module?
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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Ignition control module. It's a little black flat box mounted next to the coil. Let the car cool down and try to start it. If it starts easily, there's a strong chance it's the ICM.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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Coil can have the same problems. They too are heat sensitive.
Last thing you want to do is start unplugging sensors. That doesn't zero out what is wrong. Your sensors are all tied together and if one is disconnected that circuit is broken and the PCM will switch to open loop, thus ignoring all sensor-to-PCM input.
The best thing to do is scan the PCM at least for codes. Do you have a SES light? Even if it goes out the trouble code will still be stored. If you don't then yes it is either ignition or fuel related. Before buying any ignition component I would get a fuel pressure gauge at any auto parts store and see what your fuel pressure is doing. Make it so you can close the hood and go for a drive. Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Doing so you will see a consistent 43 to 45psi. Stomp the throttle for a short bit and see what your pressure does. If the car is acting up and fuel related you should see a pressure drop.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 10:18 AM
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That works. I'm going to let the car sit. Last night when I got home, I tried to start it after I drove it, but this morning, it fired right up. W/o MAF of course. I'm going to let it sit for today and let it be cooled off before I start trying to turn it over again.

Its hard to swallow spending any more money this week. Already shelled out $1700 and it doesnt run

Tires, brakes, suspension parts... Now this.


Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
Ignition control module. It's a little black flat box mounted next to the coil. Let the car cool down and try to start it. If it starts easily, there's a strong chance it's the ICM.
Can you pin point the location for me? I've owned a SVT Focus for the last 6 years, and it just had a coil pack
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 12:49 PM
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Update, went outside and tried to spin her over, and shes hittin but not catchin.... it'll blip to 1K and die occasionally, but you can hear it hit (combustion) like it wants to start... everything is moving, just wont start. Its apparent that its getting spark and fuel by how it sounds... BUMP or my life.

EDIT: Battery died. great.

Last edited by CrimsonLT1; Jul 4, 2009 at 01:03 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 07:31 PM
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hook it up to a scanner and see what codes come up
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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better check your ICM and Coil....
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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Sorry to be ignorant, but IDK where that stuff is, except under the hood.
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