Power Mods
Im new to the F Body thing and i was wondering what mods would give me better power out of a stock block? Im thinking Cam, Maybe Heads... Spray? Ls6 Intake, SLP lid (Idk if it will work with my hood)... Any ideas?
Rockstar
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From: I'm on a boat! in Shreveport, La
First off go full bolt ons. And secondly a LS6 intake will not fit our cars. These are LT's, not LS'.
Since the LT blocks are cast iron they will handle spray better than an LS.
Since the LT blocks are cast iron they will handle spray better than an LS.
Set your car up to run then add power. Do suspension and gears/ stall if auto and then start the bolt ons. No one likes to see these 340+ horsepower cammed cars run 13s.
I laugh when I go to the track with my pretty much stock car and run with 400+ horsepower GTOs and LS cars because they cant hook.
I laugh when I go to the track with my pretty much stock car and run with 400+ horsepower GTOs and LS cars because they cant hook.
if your an LT1 car just start out with the basics. get a set of longtube headers, have a shop fab up a nice true dual system for you, throw on a CAI, gears, if your auto a stall would wake the **** out of your car, and that should get you moving pretty well for your first f-body
Mmhmm, your talking like you have a LS1 based motor, but this is the LT1 section.
Let us know a little more about the car such as the....
Year, make, model, and if it got a engine swap,.....
As in general, a Cold Air Intake (CAI) or for LSX motors a "Lid"
Long tube headers (make sure your meet your emissions requirements, if they apply)
After CAT exhaust (cat back)
If an LT1, the intake manifold is fine.
Depending on milage, and if the motor has never been cracked open, maybe it is best you leave it alone until you do a rebuild. What you could do is a set of valve springs that will support a cam later on and do 1.6 Roller Rockers.
Let us know a little more about the car such as the....
Year, make, model, and if it got a engine swap,.....
As in general, a Cold Air Intake (CAI) or for LSX motors a "Lid"
Long tube headers (make sure your meet your emissions requirements, if they apply)
After CAT exhaust (cat back)
If an LT1, the intake manifold is fine.
Depending on milage, and if the motor has never been cracked open, maybe it is best you leave it alone until you do a rebuild. What you could do is a set of valve springs that will support a cam later on and do 1.6 Roller Rockers.
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Or you can buy my entire drivetrain for "blank" amount and run 11's on motor and still maintain great streetability and good gas mileage. PM me if you're interested. Will not be cheap ;-)
Or, you can just do what everyone else suggests - headers, cold air intake, exhaust, throttle body, electric water pump, roller rockers/springs, etc. You can do quite a few things without ever having to even crack the longblock open
Or, you can just do what everyone else suggests - headers, cold air intake, exhaust, throttle body, electric water pump, roller rockers/springs, etc. You can do quite a few things without ever having to even crack the longblock open
FYI on a TB, going from stock to 58MM BBK does nothing (improvement, 383 LT1). Other then throttle response and thats debatable since your TPS sensor gets adjusted.
Also people can consider gears and if applicable stall or even a email/mail order tune.
Also people can consider gears and if applicable stall or even a email/mail order tune.
Or you can buy my entire drivetrain for "blank" amount and run 11's on motor and still maintain great streetability and good gas mileage. PM me if you're interested. Will not be cheap ;-)
Or, you can just do what everyone else suggests - headers, cold air intake, exhaust, throttle body, electric water pump, roller rockers/springs, etc. You can do quite a few things without ever having to even crack the longblock open
Or, you can just do what everyone else suggests - headers, cold air intake, exhaust, throttle body, electric water pump, roller rockers/springs, etc. You can do quite a few things without ever having to even crack the longblock open
Yeah I'll use "near future" to estimate the time my build is finished, but for me that may be after im done with school (5-6 years) lol. Unless I sell my setup, I'll be able to fund for it a lot quicker



