Ok so a couple of weeks ago, I had two buddies come to my house and we did a cam swap. I ended up replacing the whole valvetrain in terms of pushrods, springs, lifters, all that good stuff, I bought a new opti, new timing chain. I also had the computer tuned for the cam when everything was apart.

So after everything was put back together, I went to fire the car up and it wanted to started so bad but it was just back firing like crazy. So I realized that one buddy had poured coolant into the optispark connector, and figured that it was a bad opti, so I bought another put it on, and still had somewhat of the same problem, but this time it turned over, but wouldn't stay idleing.

I then contacted Larry at SpeedInc and he gave me the suggestion of drilling 1/8" holes in the throttle blade for starting. So I drilled one on each blade, and I went to start the car and it fired right up, but again it will not hold and idle and it sounds really shitty. After I shut the car off I looked under the hood and noticed some of the headers were glowing orange.

I don't know what it could be, I know it's not the MAF sensor, it's not the computer, there are no leaks...so I don't know!!

 

Sounds like a timing issue.
Your positive the cam was dot-to-dot when you put it in?
Positive the opti is oriented the right way on the cam?
Roller rockers adjusted properly?

A long time ago my rotor detached and I was getting intermitant spark. I was able to get the car off the freeway. No matter how much gas I gave it the car would only sputter forward til I could pull over safely. got under my car and my headers were glowing orange from the unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust.

 

This is so simple it ought to be automatic, but are you positive that you didn't cross some plug wires? We all screw up things like that from time to time and because it's so simple we forget to double check.
Recently had a buddy restoring an old Beetle. Passenger turns would barely light and kept popping the fuses. He was convinced it HAD to be something in the wiring because he had just put a new switch in the steering column. Took him at his word, did a lot of testing. Everything pointed to the problem being the switch. Took it apart. Hot wire had slipped when he tightened the connection andwas shoting out.
Start with the things you think you could not possibly have screwed up.

 

With the backfiring and poping I would almost gurantee you the timing is off. Maybe slipped a tooth or not just lined up right from the beginning. But I wouldnt waste money on replacing brand new optis. I would double check spark plug cables then if that is correct gotta check the timing.

 

I double and triple checked the plug wires, and from what I've been hearing, it sounds as though my buddy who is "99% sure he did it right" f*cked the timing up, maybe by one notch or so.

 

Well hopefully you knew to try and test fire the car before you put back the water pump and everything else back on. Makes fixing problems while troubleshooting much faster...

 

yea definitely not, all the **** is back on, so now I have to take it all back apart again

 

Ouch, well now you know.

 

So if I get all that apart and the timing is correct, and the dowel pin is the correct length, all the plugs are in the correct order, what else could it be?

Oh and a side note, I went to autozone and bought an OBI scanner, which is ridiculous, but I wanted to see if I could find any codes, well I followed the instructions and you are supposed to be able to find the codes with the number of check engine light flashes, well I plugged it in and the check engine light never flashed, so I don't know if it doesn't work or if I have no codes.

 

It would help if your sig stated your vehicle info including year.

 

There is really not much more that could be wrong. Maybe valves not adjusted correctly. But if all was fine prior to the install its most likely the timing. As for the code reader depends on the yr of the car.

 

just making sure my sig works...and my valves were adjusted in the firing order and I know that was done correctly, so I'm gonna tear it down this weekend and see how it looks.

 

SO I FOUND THE PROBLEM!! the douche bag who installed my optispark, installed it one key off, he must have hammered it in. So I fixed that, connected most of the stuff, and turned the key, THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP!!

 

Nice. Glad it was a simple problem. That's why I only trust myself to work on my car.

 

so now I have everything back together but I can't get the crank pulley/hub on. The bolt that was in there is too short and will not thread in!! i don't know what to do!

 

You need to get a hardended 7/16 x 20 threaded rod, a couple hardened washers (or a thrust bearing if you can find one) and a 7/16 hardened nut. This will make a reusable hub installer tool. Be sure to have your engine at #1TDC and orient your hub so that when it's seated and the balancer is on, the arrow ('93-'95) or pointed corner of the cast in triangle ('96-'97) is in the 12 oclock position. Thread the rod into the crank, place the hub in the right orientation, slip the large washers (or thrust bearing and washer) onto the hub, then put the nut on and tighten until the hub is fully seated.

I have a Kentmoore J tool, so hub installation is easy.

 

that sounds like it is stupid simple. where can I find a threaded hardened rod like that?

 

So I went to ACE Hardware, NAPA, and a little hole in the wall hardware store, and I could not find a 7/16 x 20 threaded rod, let alone hardened... I don't know what to do unless I go to the dealership and spend like $20 on a bolt

 

Most likely you will need to buy it from a specialty store or online.

Or buy an install tool for like $50. That's what I did.

 

#1 don't f around on the hub install by trying to pull it on with the balancer bolt. either get the Kent Moore tool or make the one out of the all thread and parts suggested

#2....now that you drilled the TB blades you may have created other issues. If for some reason the IAC counts are still in order fine. Typically the "drill" mod is ONE hole between the blades IF it is a aftermarket TB. You would need a scan tool to find wtf the IAC counts are (30-35 with engine at operating temp at idle)

"sometimes" you can just crack the TB blades open to get it right but that typically throws off TPS volts and then you need to "slot" the 3 holes holding it on so you can "turn back" the TPS so it 'thinks" it is in the correct spot.

if you no longer have idle or surge issues GREAT