my lt1 won't idle!! Please Help!
07-07-2009, 10:03 AM
#1
my lt1 won't idle!! Please Help! Ok so a couple of weeks ago, I had two buddies come to my house and we did a cam swap. I ended up replacing the whole valvetrain in terms of pushrods, springs, lifters, all that good stuff, I bought a new opti, new timing chain. I also had the computer tuned for the cam when everything was apart.
So after everything was put back together, I went to fire the car up and it wanted to started so bad but it was just back firing like crazy. So I realized that one buddy had poured coolant into the optispark connector, and figured that it was a bad opti, so I bought another put it on, and still had somewhat of the same problem, but this time it turned over, but wouldn't stay idleing.
I then contacted Larry at SpeedInc and he gave me the suggestion of drilling 1/8" holes in the throttle blade for starting. So I drilled one on each blade, and I went to start the car and it fired right up, but again it will not hold and idle and it sounds really shitty. After I shut the car off I looked under the hood and noticed some of the headers were glowing orange.
I don't know what it could be, I know it's not the MAF sensor, it's not the computer, there are no leaks...so I don't know!!
So after everything was put back together, I went to fire the car up and it wanted to started so bad but it was just back firing like crazy. So I realized that one buddy had poured coolant into the optispark connector, and figured that it was a bad opti, so I bought another put it on, and still had somewhat of the same problem, but this time it turned over, but wouldn't stay idleing.
I then contacted Larry at SpeedInc and he gave me the suggestion of drilling 1/8" holes in the throttle blade for starting. So I drilled one on each blade, and I went to start the car and it fired right up, but again it will not hold and idle and it sounds really shitty. After I shut the car off I looked under the hood and noticed some of the headers were glowing orange.
I don't know what it could be, I know it's not the MAF sensor, it's not the computer, there are no leaks...so I don't know!!
07-07-2009, 11:21 AM
#2
Sounds like a timing issue.
Your positive the cam was dot-to-dot when you put it in?
Positive the opti is oriented the right way on the cam?
Roller rockers adjusted properly?
A long time ago my rotor detached and I was getting intermitant spark. I was able to get the car off the freeway. No matter how much gas I gave it the car would only sputter forward til I could pull over safely. got under my car and my headers were glowing orange from the unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust.
Your positive the cam was dot-to-dot when you put it in?
Positive the opti is oriented the right way on the cam?
Roller rockers adjusted properly?
A long time ago my rotor detached and I was getting intermitant spark. I was able to get the car off the freeway. No matter how much gas I gave it the car would only sputter forward til I could pull over safely. got under my car and my headers were glowing orange from the unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust.
Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 07-07-2009 at 12:42 PM.
07-07-2009, 11:42 AM
#3
This is so simple it ought to be automatic, but are you positive that you didn't cross some plug wires? We all screw up things like that from time to time and because it's so simple we forget to double check.
Recently had a buddy restoring an old Beetle. Passenger turns would barely light and kept popping the fuses. He was convinced it HAD to be something in the wiring because he had just put a new switch in the steering column. Took him at his word, did a lot of testing. Everything pointed to the problem being the switch. Took it apart. Hot wire had slipped when he tightened the connection andwas shoting out.
Start with the things you think you could not possibly have screwed up.
Recently had a buddy restoring an old Beetle. Passenger turns would barely light and kept popping the fuses. He was convinced it HAD to be something in the wiring because he had just put a new switch in the steering column. Took him at his word, did a lot of testing. Everything pointed to the problem being the switch. Took it apart. Hot wire had slipped when he tightened the connection andwas shoting out.
Start with the things you think you could not possibly have screwed up.
07-07-2009, 12:21 PM
#4
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With the backfiring and poping I would almost gurantee you the timing is off. Maybe slipped a tooth or not just lined up right from the beginning. But I wouldnt waste money on replacing brand new optis. I would double check spark plug cables then if that is correct gotta check the timing.
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07-07-2009, 01:50 PM
#9
So if I get all that apart and the timing is correct, and the dowel pin is the correct length, all the plugs are in the correct order, what else could it be?
Oh and a side note, I went to autozone and bought an OBI scanner, which is ridiculous, but I wanted to see if I could find any codes, well I followed the instructions and you are supposed to be able to find the codes with the number of check engine light flashes, well I plugged it in and the check engine light never flashed, so I don't know if it doesn't work or if I have no codes.
Oh and a side note, I went to autozone and bought an OBI scanner, which is ridiculous, but I wanted to see if I could find any codes, well I followed the instructions and you are supposed to be able to find the codes with the number of check engine light flashes, well I plugged it in and the check engine light never flashed, so I don't know if it doesn't work or if I have no codes.
07-07-2009, 02:00 PM
#10
So if I get all that apart and the timing is correct, and the dowel pin is the correct length, all the plugs are in the correct order, what else could it be?
Oh and a side note, I went to autozone and bought an OBI scanner, which is ridiculous, but I wanted to see if I could find any codes, well I followed the instructions and you are supposed to be able to find the codes with the number of check engine light flashes, well I plugged it in and the check engine light never flashed, so I don't know if it doesn't work or if I have no codes.
Oh and a side note, I went to autozone and bought an OBI scanner, which is ridiculous, but I wanted to see if I could find any codes, well I followed the instructions and you are supposed to be able to find the codes with the number of check engine light flashes, well I plugged it in and the check engine light never flashed, so I don't know if it doesn't work or if I have no codes.
07-07-2009, 02:15 PM
#11
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There is really not much more that could be wrong. Maybe valves not adjusted correctly. But if all was fine prior to the install its most likely the timing. As for the code reader depends on the yr of the car.
07-17-2009, 04:51 PM
#16
I have a Kentmoore J tool, so hub installation is easy.
07-18-2009, 01:49 PM
#18
So I went to ACE Hardware, NAPA, and a little hole in the wall hardware store, and I could not find a 7/16 x 20 threaded rod, let alone hardened... I don't know what to do unless I go to the dealership and spend like $20 on a bolt
07-18-2009, 02:32 PM
#20
#1 don't f around on the hub install by trying to pull it on with the balancer bolt. either get the Kent Moore tool or make the one out of the all thread and parts suggested
#2....now that you drilled the TB blades you may have created other issues. If for some reason the IAC counts are still in order fine. Typically the "drill" mod is ONE hole between the blades IF it is a aftermarket TB. You would need a scan tool to find wtf the IAC counts are (30-35 with engine at operating temp at idle)
"sometimes" you can just crack the TB blades open to get it right but that typically throws off TPS volts and then you need to "slot" the 3 holes holding it on so you can "turn back" the TPS so it 'thinks" it is in the correct spot.
if you no longer have idle or surge issues GREAT
#2....now that you drilled the TB blades you may have created other issues. If for some reason the IAC counts are still in order fine. Typically the "drill" mod is ONE hole between the blades IF it is a aftermarket TB. You would need a scan tool to find wtf the IAC counts are (30-35 with engine at operating temp at idle)
"sometimes" you can just crack the TB blades open to get it right but that typically throws off TPS volts and then you need to "slot" the 3 holes holding it on so you can "turn back" the TPS so it 'thinks" it is in the correct spot.
if you no longer have idle or surge issues GREAT