Engine build advice..355 or 383??
hell i have a 388, but i was going to build a 355 until a local deal came up for this motor. the way i see it, if you have a big budget and are going with big parts (Ai TFS, ported AFRs, SR, etc) then get all the cubes you can. but if you're just looking for 400-450 rwhp you're not going to have any reliability issues with a stock crank and rods. a well planned out 355 will make more average hp and torque than a 383 with crappy heads and an off the shelf cam guaranteed.
If the dude cant afford a 383 then is it not obvious to build the 355? Im assuming since he asked 355 or 383 he had the money to build either.
u dont ask do i want a corvette or camaro if u can only afford the camaro do u?
also, i said with the same heads and cam the 383 will make more torque which will win races.
Advanced Induction sells a forged rotating assembly for a 355 for $2196 and for a 383 $2196, i would easily go for the 383.
Now if u cant afford much then go with their assembly that uses the stock crank for $1195.
u dont ask do i want a corvette or camaro if u can only afford the camaro do u?
also, i said with the same heads and cam the 383 will make more torque which will win races.
Advanced Induction sells a forged rotating assembly for a 355 for $2196 and for a 383 $2196, i would easily go for the 383.
Now if u cant afford much then go with their assembly that uses the stock crank for $1195.
Never assume anything. There will always be people out there who will surprise you. I can't tell you how many threads I have read where a guy want's to buy a 383 rotating assembly only to top off the car with home ported heads and a cam... Fact is, most people truely don't know what it costs to build a reliable stroker motor until they come onto a website like this and face reality.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Thanks for all the advise here guys!!...Its a big decision!! I'm kind of undecided on what to do...I'm leaning on going with the 355 but I know that if I do that, I'm just going to kick myself when its done and I didn't go with the 383!! Although I know it costs a ton of money to properly build a 383...I don't want to do it half assed haha!
Since I would be building this a little bit at a time, it might be in my advantage to go the 383 route but since I'm not going to be taking it to the track much and its going to be just for fun basically, maybe a 355 would be all that I need. PLUS!! no matter how hard you try, someone is always going to have a faster ride haha!
Since I would be building this a little bit at a time, it might be in my advantage to go the 383 route but since I'm not going to be taking it to the track much and its going to be just for fun basically, maybe a 355 would be all that I need. PLUS!! no matter how hard you try, someone is always going to have a faster ride haha!
Have we seen this before
I have seen STOCK cranks go 7700 repeatedly. 84 Z28, 355 decent rods, used forged pistons. 462 "double hump" heads home ported. Solid roller, 4 speed, 5.88 gears 28x10 slicks, ran 11.20@121. We drove it on the street on pumpgas. 2 BOLT MAINS!!
You dont need to overbuild a engine to have a good one.
Build a 355 with the old style steel smallblock stock rods(not the LT1 powdered metal ones) good rod bolts, set of forged pistons, balance it.
Spend the real money to make some power, on the topend and bolt ons.
BUT to be emissions compliant AND make the power you want, its gonna be easier with a 383. Just get a cast rotating assembly to save on money.
I have seen STOCK cranks go 7700 repeatedly. 84 Z28, 355 decent rods, used forged pistons. 462 "double hump" heads home ported. Solid roller, 4 speed, 5.88 gears 28x10 slicks, ran 11.20@121. We drove it on the street on pumpgas. 2 BOLT MAINS!!
You dont need to overbuild a engine to have a good one.
Build a 355 with the old style steel smallblock stock rods(not the LT1 powdered metal ones) good rod bolts, set of forged pistons, balance it.
Spend the real money to make some power, on the topend and bolt ons.
BUT to be emissions compliant AND make the power you want, its gonna be easier with a 383. Just get a cast rotating assembly to save on money.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Jul 24, 2009 at 12:36 AM.
go onto the AI website and look under "LT1 Results." look at the bottom ends some of the people are using, and the power they are putting out.. i believe one guy on there has a stock 140k mile bottom end, with an AI top end, and made about 400rwhp.
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Have we seen this before
I have seen STOCK cranks go 7700 repeatedly. 84 Z28, 355 decent rods, used forged pistons. 462 "double hump" heads home ported. Solid roller, 4 speed, 5.88 gears 28x18 slicks, ran 11.20@121. We drove it on the street on pumpgas. 2 BOLT MAINS!!
You dont need to overbuild a engine to have a good one.
Build a 355 with the old style steel smallblock stock rods(not the LT1 powdered metal ones) good rod bolts, set of forged pistons, balance it.
Spend the real money to make some power, on the topend and bolt ons.
BUT to be emissions compliant AND make the power you want, its gonna be easier with a 383. Just get a cast rotating assembly to save on money.
I have seen STOCK cranks go 7700 repeatedly. 84 Z28, 355 decent rods, used forged pistons. 462 "double hump" heads home ported. Solid roller, 4 speed, 5.88 gears 28x18 slicks, ran 11.20@121. We drove it on the street on pumpgas. 2 BOLT MAINS!!
You dont need to overbuild a engine to have a good one.
Build a 355 with the old style steel smallblock stock rods(not the LT1 powdered metal ones) good rod bolts, set of forged pistons, balance it.
Spend the real money to make some power, on the topend and bolt ons.
BUT to be emissions compliant AND make the power you want, its gonna be easier with a 383. Just get a cast rotating assembly to save on money.
but as for the rest I agree 100%. all too often I see people splay caps, go to H beam rods, etc. just to have a <400rwhp mild h/c car. a good bottom end is great and all but all too often people dump too much money into it without realizing they're focusing all their attention in the wrong direction while neglecting other aspects.
the 383 will make the car move driveable and emissions friendly than a 350/355 with the same cam. btw I've had good luck with the eagle cast kit. I know people will probably bust my ***** for using such a kit but I just wanted a mild 383 that was fun to drive and wouldn't break my bank, also my first motor build that I've ever put together to see if I could do it. so if it did break I'd be a lot less heatbroken on a $700 RA vs a $2300+ one. in retrospect I do wish I'd gone fully forged to leave my options open with n2o and such but I had no idea that I'd have the success I did at the time when I was purchasing my parts. Hindsight is 20/20 after all. obviously this won't be the last motor I build for this car but it was a test for myself.
The only reason I decided to build a new shortblock was because of my cam/shiftpoints and I did not feel comfortable shifting the stock shortblock at 6500 rpm. I could have gone with a 355 but didn't like the idea of putting forged pistons and rods on a cast crank and if you are going to buy a forged crank or any new crank for that matter, cast or forged, you might as well stroke it. It isn't going to cost much more money in machining to clearance the block and the price difference in 3.48 or 3.75 in stroke cranks is negligible.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
I did the same thing, I had to take the motor apart about 20 times but I got the rod clearance good...lol , The block is easy too.
I used the Scat pro mod I beam with cap screws, LW 1/16 ring forged Speed pro pistons (with 12 CC dish)and an Eagle 4340 crank.
I used the Scat pro mod I beam with cap screws, LW 1/16 ring forged Speed pro pistons (with 12 CC dish)and an Eagle 4340 crank.
I wouldnt use the stock powdered metal rods BECAUSE you cant put good rod bolts in.
95 Formula on this board went 10.30's with a 355, solid roller STOCK CRANK all motor and a six speed. He was spinning it past 7000.
95 Formula on this board went 10.30's with a 355, solid roller STOCK CRANK all motor and a six speed. He was spinning it past 7000.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 123
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From: Folsom, CA
A stroker is going to make more torque, and sooner, period. A stock stroke 350 or 355 will make good power but will have to spin higher to acheive it. It really boils down to preference, and I personally like lots of torque at low rpms so a strokers for me!
I say do a 383 if your starting from scratch. I chose fully forged 383 over a fully forged 355 because their isn't much price difference at that point.
Also I wouldn't worry about passing emissions. You'll end up spending more money and effort, then it will probably fail anyways with the strict VA standards. There are ways around it anyways. Where are you in northern VA?
Also I wouldn't worry about passing emissions. You'll end up spending more money and effort, then it will probably fail anyways with the strict VA standards. There are ways around it anyways. Where are you in northern VA?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 18
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From: Virginia
Ralls, I'm in Sterling Park, VA...near Dulles Airport. Thanks for all the advise! I think since I have the bare block...starting from scratch and doing it a little at a time, I'm going to try my hand at a 383 an see what happens!
I'm sure I'll be posting more questions as the process begins haha! I'd be happy with the torque and also the cool factor of a stroker!
I'm sure I'll be posting more questions as the process begins haha! I'd be happy with the torque and also the cool factor of a stroker!
btw my 383 peaks around 6100rpm or so, definately better for goals
I went with a 383 way back in 1995 because I wanted to have a strong running set up that you didnt have to spin to the moon...I run ported stock casting with 2.00/1.56 valves done by Lingenfelter and Eric Bradby paired with a Joe Overton/Erson 226/234 cam...The block is a 4 bolt main Corvette block with a Lunati crank, Oliver 5.85" billet I beams and JE pistons. With 11.2:1 compression ratio using 93 octane I'm done by 6400 rpm..With a mild Vig 3600 converter, 4.10s and 28" Drag Radials I ran the times/mph in my sig and its been together for 14 years and 53,000 miles with countless 1/4 mile passes...
I like the idea of not having to spin the thing to 7000 rpm to make power and consequently not having to run 4.56s and a large by huge converter...I drive mine everywhere and its a great street car....No matter which route you go you have to match your parts correctly or you'll have junk either way...
--Alan
I like the idea of not having to spin the thing to 7000 rpm to make power and consequently not having to run 4.56s and a large by huge converter...I drive mine everywhere and its a great street car....No matter which route you go you have to match your parts correctly or you'll have junk either way...
--Alan
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as what i've read in countless build threads, theres nothing wrong with putting together your "budget 355 build" with a nice head/cam package from whomever. I went that route because I had a budget and had to by the supporting mods for my car to put the newfound hp to use. No budget why not go 383. nuff said. I've got that bare block in the garage waiting to be built into a stout 383 whenever I can find spare money being that i have a kid and wife now...
whenever I can find spare money being that i have a kid and wife now...