Engine build advice..355 or 383??
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 18
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From: Virginia
Engine build advice..355 or 383?? Hi All! I know this has been discussed before but let me explain. I recently purchased a bare LT1 block and want to start building a stouter LT1 motor...I just can't decide between a 355 or 383. I'm rarely going to take it to the track, its just going to be for fun. My car is a 1993 Firebird T/A and its a automatic...I'd be happy with close to 380 to 400 at the wheels, is this possible?? Trying to keep it as cost efficient as possible, so I was planning on using my stock heads and intake...could I achieve my goals with my stock stuff?
I'm also a little worried about emissions...I live in Northern VA and its such a pain in the a## having to deal with emissions!!
If I could get some good power out of a 355, I would go that route...just wanted some opinions from people that have already done the build...thanks for your help!!
I'm also a little worried about emissions...I live in Northern VA and its such a pain in the a## having to deal with emissions!!
If I could get some good power out of a 355, I would go that route...just wanted some opinions from people that have already done the build...thanks for your help!!
Hi All! I know this has been discussed before but let me explain. I recently purchased a bare LT1 block and want to start building a stouter LT1 motor...I just can't decide between a 355 or 383. I'm rarely going to take it to the track, its just going to be for fun. My car is a 1993 Firebird T/A and its a automatic...I'd be happy with close to 380 to 400 at the wheels, is this possible?? Trying to keep it as cost efficient as possible, so I was planning on using my stock heads and intake...could I achieve my goals with my stock stuff?
I'm also a little worried about emissions...I live in Northern VA and its such a pain in the a## having to deal with emissions!!
If I could get some good power out of a 355, I would go that route...just wanted some opinions from people that have already done the build...thanks for your help!!
I'm also a little worried about emissions...I live in Northern VA and its such a pain in the a## having to deal with emissions!!
If I could get some good power out of a 355, I would go that route...just wanted some opinions from people that have already done the build...thanks for your help!!
Most importantly though, what is your budget? A solid running 400whp 383 through an automatic will set you back at least 6k, especially if you're starting from scratch. A 355 won't be much cheaper.
I'd say 355 if you have a shortblock to work with but if you're starting with a bareblock and no rotating assembly might as well go 383. only cost difference at that point is clearancing and possible block filling.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Virginia
I'm going to take the block to a shop soon and have it dipped and cleaned and checked for cracks...after that I'm going to throw it on a engine stand and add to it from time to time when I get $$ for parts...obviously my first step is going to be having all the machine work done. Is there anything anybody suggests doing when I have it there at the machine shop? I figured someone who has done this before might be able to give me some useful advise?
My car is a 1993 Firebird T/A w/ automatic...No stall converter but I do have 3.73 gears, mac mid length headers, mac high flow cat, SLP loud mouth exhaust, low temp thermostat, MSD wires, coil & optispark and subframe connectors...thats all. I plan on getting my stock heads worked as well as my stock intake.
Thanks for the help so far guys!
My car is a 1993 Firebird T/A w/ automatic...No stall converter but I do have 3.73 gears, mac mid length headers, mac high flow cat, SLP loud mouth exhaust, low temp thermostat, MSD wires, coil & optispark and subframe connectors...thats all. I plan on getting my stock heads worked as well as my stock intake.
Thanks for the help so far guys!
Check with AD Performance they cal sell you a complete 383 all forged rotating assembly with Scat 4340 standard weight crank, Scat 6" Procomp 4340 rods and Mahle forged ft coated pistons for $1600. Then get Pro Gram splayed billet 4 bolt caps and have them installed with a .030 overbore, deck the block and align bore/hone the mains then use ARP head and main studs. Also get one of Shon Herrons billet oil pump drives get your heads & intake ported by Ai or EPortworks and get a matching cam (be sure to indicate an emissions cam) then get a larger capacity oilpan and you'll be good to go.
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I'm going to take the block to a shop soon and have it dipped and cleaned and checked for cracks...after that I'm going to throw it on a engine stand and add to it from time to time when I get $$ for parts...obviously my first step is going to be having all the machine work done. Is there anything anybody suggests doing when I have it there at the machine shop? I figured someone who has done this before might be able to give me some useful advise?
My car is a 1993 Firebird T/A w/ automatic...No stall converter but I do have 3.73 gears, mac mid length headers, mac high flow cat, SLP loud mouth exhaust, low temp thermostat, MSD wires, coil & optispark and subframe connectors...thats all. I plan on getting my stock heads worked as well as my stock intake.
Thanks for the help so far guys!
My car is a 1993 Firebird T/A w/ automatic...No stall converter but I do have 3.73 gears, mac mid length headers, mac high flow cat, SLP loud mouth exhaust, low temp thermostat, MSD wires, coil & optispark and subframe connectors...thats all. I plan on getting my stock heads worked as well as my stock intake.
Thanks for the help so far guys!
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Virginia
I know! I know! I'm sure your all tired of the same posts all the time but I myself grow tired of always having to search through numerous posts to get the info I need...plus I wanted to get some advise from people who have already done the build, maybe they have some stuff that they would have done differently if they had the chance??
Thanks for the info 97Z28SS, it is much appreciated!! Can't wait to get my block to the machine shop!!!
Thanks for the info 97Z28SS, it is much appreciated!! Can't wait to get my block to the machine shop!!!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 18
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From: Virginia
Chavez885, your idea is great but I have the bare LT1 block sititng in my garage and I think it would be cool to start from scratch and build that sucker!
Also is "AI" Advanced Induction & "LE" Llyod Elliot?? How long does it usually take for turn around time for their packages? Are they hard to get ahold of??
Also is "AI" Advanced Induction & "LE" Llyod Elliot?? How long does it usually take for turn around time for their packages? Are they hard to get ahold of??
www.elliottsportworks.com (LE)
www.advancedinduction.com (AI)
not sure on head work but took me only like a week to get a custom LE cam
www.advancedinduction.com (AI)
not sure on head work but took me only like a week to get a custom LE cam
Last edited by myltwon; Jul 23, 2009 at 12:08 AM.
advancedinduction.com
myltwon forgot the d, just wanted you to have a working link
You can do whatever you want to the short block, but you pretty much have to talk to one of these companies for great performing heads and cam.
i cant say much for LE as i emailed him 2 weeks ago and still no response. but you can tell AI your power plans and they can sell you a complete top end kit. the heads, cam, ported intake, throttle body, injectors, hydraulic roller kit.
as far as 355 or 383, they always say no replacement for more displacement. now thats not to say the 355 wont be a beast with the right setup. this would help me, but maybe the 355 would be close enough to the 383's power with the same parts but cheaper? have to let me know
myltwon forgot the d, just wanted you to have a working link
You can do whatever you want to the short block, but you pretty much have to talk to one of these companies for great performing heads and cam.
i cant say much for LE as i emailed him 2 weeks ago and still no response. but you can tell AI your power plans and they can sell you a complete top end kit. the heads, cam, ported intake, throttle body, injectors, hydraulic roller kit.
as far as 355 or 383, they always say no replacement for more displacement. now thats not to say the 355 wont be a beast with the right setup. this would help me, but maybe the 355 would be close enough to the 383's power with the same parts but cheaper? have to let me know
the 383 will make more torque with the same parts, and in the same car the 383 would win a race just because of that torque. i have no proof but im pretty sure thats how it would work.
Why set a rwhp goal with an automatic? They are at a severe disadvantage on a dyno compared to most people who have M6's. A 400rwhp stalled auto will smoke a 400rwhp M6.
I know you won't be going to the track a lot so may not care about ET goals, but it would be much easier to compare setups using a flywheel hp estimation.
I know you won't be going to the track a lot so may not care about ET goals, but it would be much easier to compare setups using a flywheel hp estimation.
why billet caps and a 4340 bottom end for only 400 rwhp when the guys on a budget? i say find a used crank and rods local on craigslist or something, get a good forged piston, then get an LE2 or Ai 190cc package with an emissions cam.
Eactly. My next motor is going to be a machined 355 block, stock crank, reconditioned stock rods w/ ARP rod bolts, Mahle forged pistons, Ai 200cc heads, Ai 226/234 cam. But then again, I'm not going all out...
i realize you cant see my sig since im on my phone; but... dont listen to cruzer because he doesnt have any experience. there's nothing great about a 383, except the cost to build one when you're on a budget.
Your right i dont have experience.
However
Why do most people go with 383s instead of 355s?
How is the same hp or more, along with more torque from the 383, not go faster than a 355?
Why do people say there is no replacement for displacement?
But hey, if the 355 is better, let me know before i start my build.
However
Why do most people go with 383s instead of 355s?
How is the same hp or more, along with more torque from the 383, not go faster than a 355?
Why do people say there is no replacement for displacement?
But hey, if the 355 is better, let me know before i start my build.
Your right i dont have experience.
However
Why do most people go with 383s instead of 355s?
How is the same hp or more, along with more torque from the 383, not go faster than a 355?
Why do people say there is no replacement for displacement?
But hey, if the 355 is better, let me know before i start my build.
However
Why do most people go with 383s instead of 355s?
How is the same hp or more, along with more torque from the 383, not go faster than a 355?
Why do people say there is no replacement for displacement?
But hey, if the 355 is better, let me know before i start my build.
Don't build a stroker unless you have the budget to feed it properly.