93 Z28 LT1 Long Tube Header Install Writeup
07-27-2009, 09:32 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
93 Z28 LT1 Long Tube Header Install Writeup Hey guys,
I just got done getting my tail whooped by this install today and figured I'd try to help some other people who want to tackle this install. Anyway, I took some pictures along the way, not as many as I'd like, but maybe it will help.
To begin, I bought the ebay headers for a 93-97 LT1(seller eworldsales1). Got them for $399 shipped with an ory(offroad y-pipe) and gaskets. These headers actually work for 94-97 with no modifications. The 93 model LT1 has different EGR and AIR connections so if you order these you will have to do some modifying such as plugging up parts on the headers and removing your EGR/AIR systems. They really don't do anything important other than recirculating air/exhaust through the intake.
Anyway, the headers are of good quality, and I am please with the purchase. Here are some pics:
This is a very involved process, and you should make sure you have plenty of time and patience before you begin. It took me about a total of 16 working hours(including breaks due to the 92 degree heat).
1. Disconnect your ground cable on your battery.
2. I'm not sure if you would have to, but I took off my air intake(I replaced it with a K&N).
3. Get your jack and jackstands ready and jack up the front end to where you can crawl under it easily as you will be making many, many trips underneath.
4. Crawl under the front and take tension off your serpentine belt by ratcheting the idler arm down and pulling the belt off of it.
5. Unbolt and remove the alternator. It has 4 bolts and an arm that connects to the exhaust manifold. Also an electrical plugin and a power wire that is bolted to it.
6. Crawl underneath with a 15mm ratchet and long extension. Remove the starter.
7. Now back up top to take off the AIR and EGR components. I found it easier to leave the AIR connected to the manifold and just take apart the rubber elbow. The EGR will have to be unscewed from the manifold.
8. I left my passenger side O2 sensor in until I removed the manifold, but took out the driver side sensor. You could do it either way, but note that you can unplug the wires. On the 93 model, the O2 sensor is only 1 wire, I believe 94-97 is 4 wires.
9. Now onto your stock ypipe. If you are replacing it, you can just cut it up with a saw. If not, there are 3 bolts holding each side on. Spray plenty of lube on them and go to work. Make sure you have a very long extension for these. I believe these are either 9/16 or 15mm. If you are putting on an ory, go ahead and cut your exhaust downstream so you can pull out the old y-pipe and cat.
10. You can now begin taking off the exhaust manifolds. These are a huge pain as you have to squeeze your arm and body into some awkward positions. You will need a 9/16 wrench, ratchet, multiple extensions, and plenty of muscle/cussing/brainstorming.
You should be looking like this now:
Here's the difference between the stock manifolds and the long tubes:
Now, you need to start preparing to put in the longtubes.
I took out the 3 rear spark plugs on both sides. (Some may have to take out the oil pressure sensor but I didn't)
Take a 9/16 socket and disconnect the steering column from the knuckle. I needed a prybar to separate it.
The driver side header should drop in easily from the top. Make sure you have your gaskets correct left from right and begin to install it. Work from the middle out and be careful not to strip out the holes. This is probably what took me the longest as mine did not want to line up good. I ended up taking my floor jack and positioning it under the bottom of the collector so I wouldn't have to hold up the header while trying to bolt it on.
The passenger side is a tight fit. If you can get the car up high enough, I was told it would slide in from the bottom. I couldn't get this to work, so I unbolted the motor mount from the block(3 15mm bolts). Jack up the motor a little and it will slide in from the top.
Bolt in the header and you're ready to start putting it all back together.
Things to remember during reassembly:
Starter and wiring
Alternator and wiring
Spark plugs/wiring(correct order)
O2 sensors/wiring(the wiring will need to be lengthened or extensions purchased)
Steering column
Air intake
I am currently just running the headers until I get to town to get my muffler shop to put on my ory. I believe I'm gonna have them weld it in as I don't plan on going back to stock. Hope this helps someone out there as I would have loved to have come across this before I started.
I just got done getting my tail whooped by this install today and figured I'd try to help some other people who want to tackle this install. Anyway, I took some pictures along the way, not as many as I'd like, but maybe it will help.
To begin, I bought the ebay headers for a 93-97 LT1(seller eworldsales1). Got them for $399 shipped with an ory(offroad y-pipe) and gaskets. These headers actually work for 94-97 with no modifications. The 93 model LT1 has different EGR and AIR connections so if you order these you will have to do some modifying such as plugging up parts on the headers and removing your EGR/AIR systems. They really don't do anything important other than recirculating air/exhaust through the intake.
Anyway, the headers are of good quality, and I am please with the purchase. Here are some pics:
This is a very involved process, and you should make sure you have plenty of time and patience before you begin. It took me about a total of 16 working hours(including breaks due to the 92 degree heat).
1. Disconnect your ground cable on your battery.
2. I'm not sure if you would have to, but I took off my air intake(I replaced it with a K&N).
3. Get your jack and jackstands ready and jack up the front end to where you can crawl under it easily as you will be making many, many trips underneath.
4. Crawl under the front and take tension off your serpentine belt by ratcheting the idler arm down and pulling the belt off of it.
5. Unbolt and remove the alternator. It has 4 bolts and an arm that connects to the exhaust manifold. Also an electrical plugin and a power wire that is bolted to it.
6. Crawl underneath with a 15mm ratchet and long extension. Remove the starter.
7. Now back up top to take off the AIR and EGR components. I found it easier to leave the AIR connected to the manifold and just take apart the rubber elbow. The EGR will have to be unscewed from the manifold.
8. I left my passenger side O2 sensor in until I removed the manifold, but took out the driver side sensor. You could do it either way, but note that you can unplug the wires. On the 93 model, the O2 sensor is only 1 wire, I believe 94-97 is 4 wires.
9. Now onto your stock ypipe. If you are replacing it, you can just cut it up with a saw. If not, there are 3 bolts holding each side on. Spray plenty of lube on them and go to work. Make sure you have a very long extension for these. I believe these are either 9/16 or 15mm. If you are putting on an ory, go ahead and cut your exhaust downstream so you can pull out the old y-pipe and cat.
10. You can now begin taking off the exhaust manifolds. These are a huge pain as you have to squeeze your arm and body into some awkward positions. You will need a 9/16 wrench, ratchet, multiple extensions, and plenty of muscle/cussing/brainstorming.
You should be looking like this now:
Here's the difference between the stock manifolds and the long tubes:
Now, you need to start preparing to put in the longtubes.
I took out the 3 rear spark plugs on both sides. (Some may have to take out the oil pressure sensor but I didn't)
Take a 9/16 socket and disconnect the steering column from the knuckle. I needed a prybar to separate it.
The driver side header should drop in easily from the top. Make sure you have your gaskets correct left from right and begin to install it. Work from the middle out and be careful not to strip out the holes. This is probably what took me the longest as mine did not want to line up good. I ended up taking my floor jack and positioning it under the bottom of the collector so I wouldn't have to hold up the header while trying to bolt it on.
The passenger side is a tight fit. If you can get the car up high enough, I was told it would slide in from the bottom. I couldn't get this to work, so I unbolted the motor mount from the block(3 15mm bolts). Jack up the motor a little and it will slide in from the top.
Bolt in the header and you're ready to start putting it all back together.
Things to remember during reassembly:
Starter and wiring
Alternator and wiring
Spark plugs/wiring(correct order)
O2 sensors/wiring(the wiring will need to be lengthened or extensions purchased)
Steering column
Air intake
I am currently just running the headers until I get to town to get my muffler shop to put on my ory. I believe I'm gonna have them weld it in as I don't plan on going back to stock. Hope this helps someone out there as I would have loved to have come across this before I started.
Last edited by bigchevyman24; 07-28-2009 at 01:10 PM.
07-27-2009, 10:08 PM
#2
TECH Apprentice
I do have a thread around here somewhere with pics when I installed mine. I think you are the only one besides me that has these headers and not the LPP knockoffs from eBay. I can't believe that you got both in from the top, mine were not even close to going in that way, but they did slide in quite easy from the bottom. Did you do motor mounts while you were down there?
If you plug up the AIR fittings on the headers, please post what kind of cap you used. My driver side AIR connector is leaking (not the header's fault) so I just want to cap it off.
If you plug up the AIR fittings on the headers, please post what kind of cap you used. My driver side AIR connector is leaking (not the header's fault) so I just want to cap it off.
07-28-2009, 06:06 AM
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice write up, but how was fitment? I remember another guy saying they didn't fit very well at all, but you don't seem to complain much in your post. Have you installed any other brand of headers, if so, how do they compare?
Can you post the sellers name which you purchased them off of? It seems there are a couple places selling them now.
That is all...for now.
Can you post the sellers name which you purchased them off of? It seems there are a couple places selling them now.
That is all...for now.
07-28-2009, 08:51 AM
#6
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South East Houston
Posts: 586
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I do have a thread around here somewhere with pics when I installed mine. I think you are the only one besides me that has these headers and not the LPP knockoffs from eBay. I can't believe that you got both in from the top, mine were not even close to going in that way, but they did slide in quite easy from the bottom. Did you do motor mounts while you were down there?
If you plug up the AIR fittings on the headers, please post what kind of cap you used. My driver side AIR connector is leaking (not the header's fault) so I just want to cap it off.
If you plug up the AIR fittings on the headers, please post what kind of cap you used. My driver side AIR connector is leaking (not the header's fault) so I just want to cap it off.
You can kinda see it here on the driver's side:
07-28-2009, 09:16 AM
#7
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
I don't see anything about removing the oil pressure sensor. I've read over and over again how people with '93 cars have broken this sensor trying to manipulate the drivers side header into place.
Trending Topics
07-28-2009, 12:52 PM
#10
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The ebay seller was: eworldsales1
They shipped very quickly too. The fitment wasn't perfect, as I had a VERY hard time getting the rear bolts in the driver side, and one hole of the passenger side had to be drilled to get the bolt through. Other than that, though, it's a great deal for the money!!! For the $399, I got the headers, gaskets, bolts, and y-pipe. No clamps. However, shipping was free!!!
I made some "plugs" by just screwing/beating in some bolts for now. I'm probably going to pull them when I find some screw on caps like what slow96z did.
I forgot to mention that the header has an egr arm coming off of it that has to be capped off on 93 models. I made a plate out of some spare metal and bolted it on with the gasket for the egr arm.
I didn't need to take off the oil pressure sensor. Like I said, they pretty much slid right in. All I needed to do on the driver side was take off the 3 spark plugs and disconnect the steering column.
On the passenger side, it slid right in from the top after I unbolted the motor from the mount and jacked it up about 2 inches(with removal of spark plugs).
They shipped very quickly too. The fitment wasn't perfect, as I had a VERY hard time getting the rear bolts in the driver side, and one hole of the passenger side had to be drilled to get the bolt through. Other than that, though, it's a great deal for the money!!! For the $399, I got the headers, gaskets, bolts, and y-pipe. No clamps. However, shipping was free!!!
I made some "plugs" by just screwing/beating in some bolts for now. I'm probably going to pull them when I find some screw on caps like what slow96z did.
I forgot to mention that the header has an egr arm coming off of it that has to be capped off on 93 models. I made a plate out of some spare metal and bolted it on with the gasket for the egr arm.
I didn't need to take off the oil pressure sensor. Like I said, they pretty much slid right in. All I needed to do on the driver side was take off the 3 spark plugs and disconnect the steering column.
On the passenger side, it slid right in from the top after I unbolted the motor from the mount and jacked it up about 2 inches(with removal of spark plugs).
07-28-2009, 03:19 PM
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The ebay seller was: eworldsales1
They shipped very quickly too. The fitment wasn't perfect, as I had a VERY hard time getting the rear bolts in the driver side, and one hole of the passenger side had to be drilled to get the bolt through. Other than that, though, it's a great deal for the money!!! For the $399, I got the headers, gaskets, bolts, and y-pipe. No clamps. However, shipping was free!!!
I made some "plugs" by just screwing/beating in some bolts for now. I'm probably going to pull them when I find some screw on caps like what slow96z did.
I forgot to mention that the header has an egr arm coming off of it that has to be capped off on 93 models. I made a plate out of some spare metal and bolted it on with the gasket for the egr arm.
I didn't need to take off the oil pressure sensor. Like I said, they pretty much slid right in. All I needed to do on the driver side was take off the 3 spark plugs and disconnect the steering column.
On the passenger side, it slid right in from the top after I unbolted the motor from the mount and jacked it up about 2 inches(with removal of spark plugs).
They shipped very quickly too. The fitment wasn't perfect, as I had a VERY hard time getting the rear bolts in the driver side, and one hole of the passenger side had to be drilled to get the bolt through. Other than that, though, it's a great deal for the money!!! For the $399, I got the headers, gaskets, bolts, and y-pipe. No clamps. However, shipping was free!!!
I made some "plugs" by just screwing/beating in some bolts for now. I'm probably going to pull them when I find some screw on caps like what slow96z did.
I forgot to mention that the header has an egr arm coming off of it that has to be capped off on 93 models. I made a plate out of some spare metal and bolted it on with the gasket for the egr arm.
I didn't need to take off the oil pressure sensor. Like I said, they pretty much slid right in. All I needed to do on the driver side was take off the 3 spark plugs and disconnect the steering column.
On the passenger side, it slid right in from the top after I unbolted the motor from the mount and jacked it up about 2 inches(with removal of spark plugs).
07-28-2009, 07:06 PM
#12
TECH Apprentice
The ebay seller was: eworldsales1
They shipped very quickly too. The fitment wasn't perfect, as I had a VERY hard time getting the rear bolts in the driver side, and one hole of the passenger side had to be drilled to get the bolt through. Other than that, though, it's a great deal for the money!!! For the $399, I got the headers, gaskets, bolts, and y-pipe. No clamps. However, shipping was free!!!
They shipped very quickly too. The fitment wasn't perfect, as I had a VERY hard time getting the rear bolts in the driver side, and one hole of the passenger side had to be drilled to get the bolt through. Other than that, though, it's a great deal for the money!!! For the $399, I got the headers, gaskets, bolts, and y-pipe. No clamps. However, shipping was free!!!
slow96z, I'll have to check Ace's. I bought a 1/2" brass cap from Home Depot and it was just a hair too small.
07-28-2009, 08:47 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm so tempted, this thread mite just push me over the top.
The seller seems to have the headers listed for a few different prices. Did you guys buy the ones for $399+40 shipping? He also has some for like $550 shipped, but they seem to be the exact same.
Wow, he even has some for $650 shipped. Does anyone see any differences in the more expensive ones? Here's a link to his store:
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/E-Sales-...&submit=Search
The seller seems to have the headers listed for a few different prices. Did you guys buy the ones for $399+40 shipping? He also has some for like $550 shipped, but they seem to be the exact same.
Wow, he even has some for $650 shipped. Does anyone see any differences in the more expensive ones? Here's a link to his store:
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/E-Sales-...&submit=Search
Last edited by Counted Out; 07-28-2009 at 08:56 PM.
07-28-2009, 09:43 PM
#14
TECH Apprentice
I'm so tempted, this thread mite just push me over the top.
The seller seems to have the headers listed for a few different prices. Did you guys buy the ones for $399+40 shipping? He also has some for like $550 shipped, but they seem to be the exact same.
Wow, he even has some for $650 shipped. Does anyone see any differences in the more expensive ones? Here's a link to his store:
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/E-Sales-...&submit=Search
The seller seems to have the headers listed for a few different prices. Did you guys buy the ones for $399+40 shipping? He also has some for like $550 shipped, but they seem to be the exact same.
Wow, he even has some for $650 shipped. Does anyone see any differences in the more expensive ones? Here's a link to his store:
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/E-Sales-...&submit=Search
Not to hijack, but I found my thread with pics + vid:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ders-here.html
07-28-2009, 10:22 PM
#15
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This was my first install of headers on an LT1...not too bad, though. I guess it was about what I expected. I'm not sure on his auctions. I just found that one after about a week of searching. I know he had one for like $440 with free shipping but it only added the band clamps. You should message him and tell him someone bought some for $399 shipped and see if he can start you up an auction. You should just ask him what the lowest he could go shipped to you and see what he comes up with.
I just got my y-pipe on this evening. I actually believe the car is quieter now, but deeper. Before I had stock exhaust with no cats and a magnaflow muffler. Now I have lt's, ory, and magnaflow...I think I'm gonna go get my connections welded at the shop, though. I hear a little bit of a leak. I looked and I believe I'm only gonna lose about 3/4 to 1 inch of clearance if that underneath. I'm pretty satisfied with the whole package...
Anyway, if anyone is considering getting long tubes, I'd definately recommend these. I know they are not the best, but for the price, it can't be beat!!!
I just got my y-pipe on this evening. I actually believe the car is quieter now, but deeper. Before I had stock exhaust with no cats and a magnaflow muffler. Now I have lt's, ory, and magnaflow...I think I'm gonna go get my connections welded at the shop, though. I hear a little bit of a leak. I looked and I believe I'm only gonna lose about 3/4 to 1 inch of clearance if that underneath. I'm pretty satisfied with the whole package...
Anyway, if anyone is considering getting long tubes, I'd definately recommend these. I know they are not the best, but for the price, it can't be beat!!!
07-29-2009, 02:34 AM
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This was my first install of headers on an LT1...not too bad, though. I guess it was about what I expected. I'm not sure on his auctions. I just found that one after about a week of searching. I know he had one for like $440 with free shipping but it only added the band clamps. You should message him and tell him someone bought some for $399 shipped and see if he can start you up an auction. You should just ask him what the lowest he could go shipped to you and see what he comes up with.
I just got my y-pipe on this evening. I actually believe the car is quieter now, but deeper. Before I had stock exhaust with no cats and a magnaflow muffler. Now I have lt's, ory, and magnaflow...I think I'm gonna go get my connections welded at the shop, though. I hear a little bit of a leak. I looked and I believe I'm only gonna lose about 3/4 to 1 inch of clearance if that underneath. I'm pretty satisfied with the whole package...
Anyway, if anyone is considering getting long tubes, I'd definately recommend these. I know they are not the best, but for the price, it can't be beat!!!
I just got my y-pipe on this evening. I actually believe the car is quieter now, but deeper. Before I had stock exhaust with no cats and a magnaflow muffler. Now I have lt's, ory, and magnaflow...I think I'm gonna go get my connections welded at the shop, though. I hear a little bit of a leak. I looked and I believe I'm only gonna lose about 3/4 to 1 inch of clearance if that underneath. I'm pretty satisfied with the whole package...
Anyway, if anyone is considering getting long tubes, I'd definately recommend these. I know they are not the best, but for the price, it can't be beat!!!
'
The ebay headers obviously look nicer, and are stainless. But the Pacesetters are "proven" and known to fit pretty good.
07-29-2009, 02:53 PM
#17
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you get the y-pipe with the pacesetters? Even if there is a small fitment issue, once you get the stainless on there, they should last longer than the non-coated ones.
07-29-2009, 06:59 PM
#20
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you planning on deleting the air/egr? If so, get the race style pacesetters. I'm not sure on their fitment, though. It would just save you the trouble of having to plug up the ebay ones and making a block-off plate. You'd have to do this anyway since you have a 93 model. It's not that big of a pain, but you will have to do some brainstorming as to how to plug with what you have around town...