RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

See signature. My build cost me about $15k. Still have tuning to go. All motor.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

He said no spray. He didn't say no power adder.

Although NA would be cheaper I'd say this is possible:

Blower motor: 5k
Blower: 4-5k
Rear End: 2k
Minimal suspension, chassis mods: 1k
Fuel system: 1k
Exhaust: 1k

Not counting tires. Or a cage. He said street legal not track legal :p

Puck

iTrader: (17)

NA might be even more expensive to run high 10s in...the motor can be more then double that since it will need killer heads and valvetrain, while a blown car can get away with ported stockers and standard valvetrain parts.

Throwing a procharger on a forged 355 with ported stockers and a custom cam could get you 10s with enough boost, and the engine will be pretty cheap leaving plenty available for supporting mods.

**edit** I think realquick has done 10s(or damn close!) for dirt cheap using custom turbo kits, even before he put it in a soda can RX7 .

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Mine is working out to be $2200 for the rotating assembly
Just under $1000 for machine work (including 4 bolt main conversion and the caps)
$1000 for trick flow heads & springs
Then stuff for the rest of the valvetrain, oiling system, flywheel, etc.

I suppose you could definitely go cheaper though as I went with a 383 and was fairly picky on parts. Though I doubt I'll hit 10s. Not enough suspension mods and not enough boost.

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

This guy knows what he is talking about, and the $15 includes everything to get you to 11.1 1/4

I have started my project and from what i have spent and what i have left to buy its going around $13k. thats just a rough estimate, buying used suspension parts, and using my LT block, heads, transmission as cores.

thats bolt ons
suspension
wheels/drag radials
complete rebuilt LT1
rear end
built trans

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I love it when guys spit out numbers like they have done it before.

You could build the car above, take all your number and multiply by 2 unless you bought everything used. The guy stated NORMALLY ASPIRATED. N/A means the engine price goes up.

Minimal Suspension, chassis mods. The key word here is MINIMAL. The front set of Qa1's bit off 1/2 your budget here.

To the OP listen to the guys who have done it, dont build a one hit wonder make it reliable.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You are lowballing everything and have no data yet on how going cheap will work out. If you had SUCESSFULLY pulled this build off already it would be different, but you haven't accomplished anything yet.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

The EASIEST way to get into the tens??????????

Stock crank, nice rod/piston 355.

NICE set of ported stock heads/intake. Nice size hyd roller.

52mm tb

Good 3000 ish converter.

30lb injectors

roller rockers

1 3/4 headers

stock catback, single in/out straight through muffler single dump at bumper with cutout.

Stock 3.42 gears, good axles.

Frame connectors

q a1's up front, stock springs

Comp engineering 3 ways in the rear.

10 inch drag radials(275/60.... 275/40/17)

150 shot of spray.

10.80's all day long, drive it anywhere.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

He didn't state N/A in his OP or even first reply. He stated it in his second reply but then said he would be willing to do a charger.

And yeah, multiply it by 2, ok, a blower engine costs 10k and a blower costs 9k.

I suppose I forgot a clutch and tires. Add 1k for that and another 1k for more suspension/chassis mods to make you happy. Duhr. Everything else is accurate (engine 5k, blower 4-5k).

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Gonna build BLOWER engine for 5K? For what 4 lbs of boost LMFAO. Build it 3 times for what you SHOULD have built it for the FIRST time. Cuz you gonna scatter a 5k "blower" motor with ANY boost on it.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Yeah my garbage Lunati rotating assembly with 4 bolt mains is going to blow up.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I started with a bone stock car and have spent well over 15k in Mods so far. I lost track after 13k or so. Still have tons more to do. When its all done I think it has some low 11s maybe high 10s NA on a -DA ,cool weather, and a perfect 60ft. So far car went 11.88@119.44 on a crap 1.89 60ft and a decent DA. Now Im putting in a 355 for some low 10s maybe better on the bottle.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

The problem with most builds is that many people just buy some parts, throw them on the car, and hope for the best. When the numbers aren't what they wanted, they start back at square one and try a different combo. This is a very expensive, lengthy, time-consuming method to achieving your goal.

Six months ago, I set out to build an 11.0 second car, and that's exactly what I did. Just do your homework. You'll find that it is MUCH cheaper and MUCH faster to do everything right THE FIRST TIME. Learn from the people who have done it, not the folks who think they know - they learned the same as anyone else.

OddballLt1

iTrader: (1)

To be honest, there are too many stroker and huge cam cars in this forum that dont run 10's. You have to put a good combo together, not just drop 15k in the car expecting to go 10's. Its possible to go low 11's on a H/C setup, just like LS1 guys it just takes alittle more thinking. Alot of guys are afraid to pull alittle weight out to lighten up the car, yet you dont have to gut it to be 3000lb. Look up Promod's car is the drag tech section, 11.03 SI car.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I chose every part and did lots of research.. I didnt just throw 15k in parts and hope for the best. That includes everything from the k-member all the way to the S60 rear end.

OddballLt1

iTrader: (1)

Your car runs its *** off. What Im saying is alot of people of the board have poor setups for the amount of money put in them.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Oh....I agree. I think its funny a stock block with stock ported heads/ intake can make more HP and run better than 90% of big strokers with big cams, AFRs, single plain intakes etc.
Research is your friend when building a engine!!!!

Z28reggie

i am really thinking charger is going to be a def. What would i need to make the motor run for a while ? forged? anyone suggest a cam for a charger? i would want to stay between 10-12 psi

OddballLt1

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure, that you want to go this route? You can go just as fast with a better setup. As far as forged btm end, thats debatable. Are you porting the heads, and putting in a larger cam to go with it? Like AC said, do your research before you spend the cash, otherwise you'll be mad that you wasted your time. Are you thinking turbo or supercharger?

reamo04

iTrader: (9)

nope, but I have, and i have dyno sheets and track times to prove a 5k engine build will take plenty of power.

Short block :
4.030 21.20cc dish TRW pistons - 400
scat h-beam rods with L19 bolt upgrade - 400
eagle forged crank - 700ish
about 1500 machine work for the assembly, piston rings, bearings, conversion to 4 bolt mains

Add 600 for valvetrain and cam
1000 for trickflow heads

car put 768 to the wheels....

you CAN build on a budget if you know what your doing.....oh, and it was reliable too. this was through a custom homemade turbo kit with a t6 turbo that cost me under a grand to build the kit as well.