How much would i cost?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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How much would i cost? To build a high 10s low 11 se street car what would be the best way of getting the power for this without the laughing gas ? Just curious
and has anyone ever heard of using helium like the laughing gas and injecting it in i have seen a vid tht it seems to be more power and much faster burning ? again just curious
and has anyone ever heard of using helium like the laughing gas and injecting it in i have seen a vid tht it seems to be more power and much faster burning ? again just curious
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
Weeeeell, for starters....all N2O does is provide more oxygen for combustion of whatever fuel is present. As helium is completely inert (it won't burn), it won't work too well in that capacity as it will extinguish combustion. I think someone was misrepresenting what they were doing in the vid you saw.
If the car is bone stock I would say $12k is low. Exhaust, suspension, fuel system upgrades cost money, rims and slicks do too.
Emissions inspection a concern?
Where do you live? Elevation has a big impact on power and therefore goals.
Emissions inspection a concern?
Where do you live? Elevation has a big impact on power and therefore goals.
Built rear end, n2o drive shaft, slicks, etc...not cheap
Full suspension, cage, wheelie bars, etc...not cheap
Built transmission, quality clutch/converter, trans cooler, etc...not cheap
Forged, stroker bottom end...not cheap
Ported AFR heads...not cheap
Quality SR valvetrain (cam, lifters, shaft mount rockers, springs, etc)...not cheap
Single plane, 4-hole TB, rails, injectors, fuel cell...not cheap
Top of the line n2o kit with all fail-safes and acc's...not cheap
Weight reduction...the only free part about the build
Just look up what some people are paying to put some of these builds together...you'll get an idea of what it costs.
Full suspension, cage, wheelie bars, etc...not cheap
Built transmission, quality clutch/converter, trans cooler, etc...not cheap
Forged, stroker bottom end...not cheap
Ported AFR heads...not cheap
Quality SR valvetrain (cam, lifters, shaft mount rockers, springs, etc)...not cheap
Single plane, 4-hole TB, rails, injectors, fuel cell...not cheap
Top of the line n2o kit with all fail-safes and acc's...not cheap
Weight reduction...the only free part about the build
Just look up what some people are paying to put some of these builds together...you'll get an idea of what it costs.
Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; Aug 14, 2009 at 06:34 PM.
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I have close to that in just the engine, with hopes to squeak out 10s NA with an HR wihout gutting the car down to a tin can. It is not cheap or easy to go fast without spraying!! I still have to address my transmission and rear end as well. Going to have to run street tires in the mean time and hope it all holds together until I can upgrade. The proper way would have been to build the car from the back to the front, but I ran into deals I could not pass up and one thing snowballed into another.
If I knew I was going to end up spending this much I probably just would have went turbo'd forged 355 and made MORE power, while maintaining better drivability. There is just something fun about NA builds to me though...
Now, if all you want is 10's with no regard of streetability or reliability it wouldnt be too hard. Huge gears, huge stall, big solid roller, ported heads, gut the car down to a shell, and do a carb conversion to ditch the rpm limits of the stock computer for cheap, and you will be well on your way.
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On The Tree
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I live in va and i still want it to b street legal well you know street legal-ish ha we dont hae any emission tests where i get inspected lol he pretty much just writes my sticker and slaps it on been going to him for ever now I may have misunderstood what the guy did with the helium will ask him and see if he rely on yotube So would you think 20g on the entire carwould be about it ? i need a goal to save toward and its best for me if i save and buy everything at once so it feels lie chistmas when everthing arrives lol Thats how i do my big stereos to last one i spent 3500 on it and won my comp so was worth every penny lol anyway i will check back on the helium thing keep the comments a coming ( Love this site )
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: new york
im in ny ,i got a 94z 52k when it was stock internal motor the best i got was a 12.5 on a 100 shot, wit susp ,m/t drag radials ,shorty headers wit a pcmforless tune .when i went to the cc503 ,a 3.5k converter ,#30 svo injectors,pacsetter l/t,s .the best i got on the same 100 hit was a 11.7,that bein said without the bottle your lookin at least 15k in a solid roller, big cube ,gutted car that aint fun to drive at all .basically run the bottle as long as your install is right ,and your smart about it it is safe
depends on how much weight you wanna take outta the car..
low 11s is easy... high 10s is not easy.
for 5k you could buy enough "go fast" mods to get you there with the car weighing in at 3k lbs.. if it weighs around 3300 lbs, (i have not personally done this so i dont know just guesstimating) i would go with a custom cam and a nice set of heads.. so id say $7000 in "go fast" mods...
you still need a rear end.. 1500$
transmission.. just depends on what you wanna go with so ill leave this blank..
shouldnt need any fuel upgrades really.. injectors would not hurt at all, fuel pump will be fine.
you will need suspension!!!! depends on the tire you run really.. id say 1k for suspension would be a starting point.. more or less depending on the car..
and a good tuner!
low 11s is easy... high 10s is not easy.
for 5k you could buy enough "go fast" mods to get you there with the car weighing in at 3k lbs.. if it weighs around 3300 lbs, (i have not personally done this so i dont know just guesstimating) i would go with a custom cam and a nice set of heads.. so id say $7000 in "go fast" mods...
you still need a rear end.. 1500$
transmission.. just depends on what you wanna go with so ill leave this blank..
shouldnt need any fuel upgrades really.. injectors would not hurt at all, fuel pump will be fine.
you will need suspension!!!! depends on the tire you run really.. id say 1k for suspension would be a starting point.. more or less depending on the car..
and a good tuner!
12k??? are we talking full weight cars? fresh blocks? forged blocks?
you can make enough power to get you in the 10s with a stock bottom end 346 with $5k..
12k is overkill... hell for that you could have a 408, and that better net me bottom-mid 10s!
you can make enough power to get you in the 10s with a stock bottom end 346 with $5k..
12k is overkill... hell for that you could have a 408, and that better net me bottom-mid 10s!
i agree with this. ive spent just about $13k in parts on my car and i expect to see 9s outta this set up some day. if not im gonna set it on fire.
First you aren't quite bright enough to grasp you are in the wrong section.
Second to get there with a steetable car takes more effort than cutting away everything not necessary to go down the track.
Third these prices are based on COMPLETE modification, every $20 trip to the parts store, everything new not a screaming deal.
Then there is the fact it is best to OVERESTIMATE the cost and hope to come in under rather than do like so many have and blow the whole budget and have a incomplete car.
A good tranny and torque converter is going to be $2500 easy, spend $1000 on beefing up the 10-bolt as opposed to more replacing it entirely.
$500 on fuel pump and injectors.
What $800 minimum on exhaust including headers and you could spend a LOT more.
Thrown in $200 in gaskets and such and you are at $5K already and you haven't even touched the engine.
If the car is an M6 car you will spend less on the tranny BUT you will be required to do more to or outright replace the axle.
Can you save money by finding used parts or starting with a partially modded car, absolutely but don't count on it working out perfectly you will still spend a lot more than many of you expect.
I love these threads.
An LS AINT an LT.
A FULL WEIGHT 346 LS in the 10's all motor? Show me. 90% of 408 cars full weight cant get into the 10's.
To build a RELIABLE 10 second all motor LT car takes some cash and knowledge. I consider mine somewhat reliable. But I do a good bit of maintenance on the car also. Oil change every 1000 miles, trans service every 3000. I look the car over well regularly. Check fluids EVERY time I take it out. You have to on a cars like these. Guys dont consider the maintenance on a car like mine.....gets in the wallet. Rear tires are $450 every 2000 miles are so depending on how hard I abouse them. Cars like these BREAK, now matter how well you build them.
Building an all motor 10 second pumpgas DRAG car is MUCH easier than building one reliable for the street.
Build a 396 in the lightest car with the best heads/intake you can afford.
BUT THE REST OF THE CAR HAS TO WORK.
An LS AINT an LT.
A FULL WEIGHT 346 LS in the 10's all motor? Show me. 90% of 408 cars full weight cant get into the 10's.
To build a RELIABLE 10 second all motor LT car takes some cash and knowledge. I consider mine somewhat reliable. But I do a good bit of maintenance on the car also. Oil change every 1000 miles, trans service every 3000. I look the car over well regularly. Check fluids EVERY time I take it out. You have to on a cars like these. Guys dont consider the maintenance on a car like mine.....gets in the wallet. Rear tires are $450 every 2000 miles are so depending on how hard I abouse them. Cars like these BREAK, now matter how well you build them.
Building an all motor 10 second pumpgas DRAG car is MUCH easier than building one reliable for the street.
Build a 396 in the lightest car with the best heads/intake you can afford.
BUT THE REST OF THE CAR HAS TO WORK.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Aug 15, 2009 at 10:55 AM.
First you aren't quite bright enough to grasp you are in the wrong section.
Second to get there with a steetable car takes more effort than cutting away everything not necessary to go down the track.
Third these prices are based on COMPLETE modification, every $20 trip to the parts store, everything new not a screaming deal.
Then there is the fact it is best to OVERESTIMATE the cost and hope to come in under rather than do like so many have and blow the whole budget and have a incomplete car.
A good tranny and torque converter is going to be $2500 easy, spend $1000 on beefing up the 10-bolt as opposed to more replacing it entirely.
$500 on fuel pump and injectors.
What $800 minimum on exhaust including headers and you could spend a LOT more.
Thrown in $200 in gaskets and such and you are at $5K already and you haven't even touched the engine.
If the car is an M6 car you will spend less on the tranny BUT you will be required to do more to or outright replace the axle.
Can you save money by finding used parts or starting with a partially modded car, absolutely but don't count on it working out perfectly you will still spend a lot more than many of you expect.
Second to get there with a steetable car takes more effort than cutting away everything not necessary to go down the track.
Third these prices are based on COMPLETE modification, every $20 trip to the parts store, everything new not a screaming deal.
Then there is the fact it is best to OVERESTIMATE the cost and hope to come in under rather than do like so many have and blow the whole budget and have a incomplete car.
A good tranny and torque converter is going to be $2500 easy, spend $1000 on beefing up the 10-bolt as opposed to more replacing it entirely.
$500 on fuel pump and injectors.
What $800 minimum on exhaust including headers and you could spend a LOT more.
Thrown in $200 in gaskets and such and you are at $5K already and you haven't even touched the engine.
If the car is an M6 car you will spend less on the tranny BUT you will be required to do more to or outright replace the axle.
Can you save money by finding used parts or starting with a partially modded car, absolutely but don't count on it working out perfectly you will still spend a lot more than many of you expect.
a streetable car is solely opinion.. neither you nor i can argue that one way or the other..
i have done it.. i know what i spent.. and i did over estimate.. i actually did it for right at 4400... thats not factoring in a rear end which i would have needed sooner or later im sure and i was on stock transmission.. i also put in 1k for suspension.. it CAN be done for that much..
i bought that car with a lid and LM exhaust on, NOTHING else..
why would you not try to find good deals here and there? i bought my converter used and rebuilt it.. AWESOME converter.. heads were brand new.. springs/pushrods/oil pump/timing chain/entire exhaust setup was new.. ported 9090 was used.. cam was used.. the list goes on.. but why ONLY tell someone what it costs brand new?
I love these threads.
An LS AINT an LT.
A FULL WEIGHT 346 LS in the 10's all motor? Show me. 90% of 408 cars full weight cant get into the 10's.
To build a RELIABLE 10 second all motor LT car takes some cash and knowledge. I consider mine somewhat reliable. But I do a good bit of maintenance on the car also. Oil change every 1000 miles, trans service every 3000. I look the car over well regularly. Check fluids EVERY time I take it out. You have to on a cars like these. Guys dont consider the maintenance on a car like mine.....gets in the wallet. Rear tires are $450 every 2000 miles are so depending on how hard I abouse them. Cars like these BREAK, now matter how well you build them.
Building an all motor 10 second pumpgas DRAG car is MUCH easier than building one reliable for the street.
Build a 396 in the lightest car with the best heads/intake you can afford.
BUT THE REST OF THE CAR HAS TO WORK.
An LS AINT an LT.
A FULL WEIGHT 346 LS in the 10's all motor? Show me. 90% of 408 cars full weight cant get into the 10's.
To build a RELIABLE 10 second all motor LT car takes some cash and knowledge. I consider mine somewhat reliable. But I do a good bit of maintenance on the car also. Oil change every 1000 miles, trans service every 3000. I look the car over well regularly. Check fluids EVERY time I take it out. You have to on a cars like these. Guys dont consider the maintenance on a car like mine.....gets in the wallet. Rear tires are $450 every 2000 miles are so depending on how hard I abouse them. Cars like these BREAK, now matter how well you build them.
Building an all motor 10 second pumpgas DRAG car is MUCH easier than building one reliable for the street.
Build a 396 in the lightest car with the best heads/intake you can afford.
BUT THE REST OF THE CAR HAS TO WORK.
just because full weight 408 cars cant get into the 10s doesnt mean a smaller cubed properly setup car cant..
im full weight.. i am changing my heads and intake out and am shooting for low 6.9s@94+mph.. ive called it right with EVERY setup i have had so far.. i have a baby 226 cam.. i will find out sooner or later.. and a 6.9@94mph is good for a 10 second pass..
I think the mixup was about power adders. The 10-12K is for a reliable all motor LT1 setup to break into 10s.
Spraying would be a lot cheaper and easier to reach high 10s. No clue where the LSX stuff came from though
.
Spraying would be a lot cheaper and easier to reach high 10s. No clue where the LSX stuff came from though
. Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
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Ok guys i am looking for all motor and full weight. I was thinking if not all motor next would be charger. Stock block but i am all for 383 if you think it can get it done. My car is really about 300 pounds heavier than stock because of my stereo which would have to stay in because it would still be a street car lol I lke where is heading and i was thinking it would cost much more so i will be saving as we speak le me know about the 383 wit a charger Forged maybe running 12 psi or so and anyone know of a tuner and dyno in Va closer to richmond the better
