Removing cylinder heads
#22
I can get aircraft grade Loctite at work, so that should be sorted.
However, how do I clean the bolt holes to remove the old thread sealant?
#23
My heads were a bitch but once they pop its pretty easy. I used a prybar with a sharp lip to start it.
Also becareful when prying not to crack the aluminum heads especially near where the valve covers seat. Its pretty thin.
Also becareful when prying not to crack the aluminum heads especially near where the valve covers seat. Its pretty thin.
#26
Whats the purpose of the steam pipe?
I could not get the bolts to come undone on my heads, I tried every way possible. I guess I will have to deal with it when the heads come off, and now it seems they will have to come out together.
I could not get the bolts to come undone on my heads, I tried every way possible. I guess I will have to deal with it when the heads come off, and now it seems they will have to come out together.
#27
Hmm.... he was going to make me one but kinda pricey at the time. I should look into it again while the engine is out.
ADM
They are a bitch to get off. I just pulled both heads with it on. Then laid it on the ground over some cardboard stepped on the heads and used the biggest wrench i had for better leverage. Becarefull not to bend the tube though its pretty flimsy with the weight of the heads.
ADM
They are a bitch to get off. I just pulled both heads with it on. Then laid it on the ground over some cardboard stepped on the heads and used the biggest wrench i had for better leverage. Becarefull not to bend the tube though its pretty flimsy with the weight of the heads.
Last edited by AChotrod; 08-20-2009 at 07:15 PM.
#28
for sure. If the price is somewhat reasonable let me know. I got a used set for mine of a member on here because i had to completely cut mine off.
Also ADM i had to use vise grips to get mine off.
Also ADM i had to use vise grips to get mine off.
#29
Also, re-installing the vent tube bolts with the heads bolted to the block can be a NIGHTMARE! Took me a day and a half, with the help of an engine savy neighbor, just to get ONE of the bolts to start threading into the heads.
What I should have done, but didn't was to install four new gaskets when I swapped my son's 96 LT1 heads. Once the engine fired and came up to temp, the one of the passenger side leaks a tiny bit of coolant.
So I had to unscrew the bolt and replace the gaskets with the heads installed. When time came to re-install the bolt with the new washers, when I said NIGHTMARE I mean NIGHTMARE!!!!
I also read on another Forum that it's easiest to install the vent tube to both heads BEFORE installing the heads on the block. Then set both heads on the heads at the same time. I didn't have to resort to that procedure because the engine was out of the car when I changed the heads.
Just my experience.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
What I should have done, but didn't was to install four new gaskets when I swapped my son's 96 LT1 heads. Once the engine fired and came up to temp, the one of the passenger side leaks a tiny bit of coolant.
So I had to unscrew the bolt and replace the gaskets with the heads installed. When time came to re-install the bolt with the new washers, when I said NIGHTMARE I mean NIGHTMARE!!!!
I also read on another Forum that it's easiest to install the vent tube to both heads BEFORE installing the heads on the block. Then set both heads on the heads at the same time. I didn't have to resort to that procedure because the engine was out of the car when I changed the heads.
Just my experience.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
#30
Clean all the threads and use thread sealant since they extend into coolant. You'll get a more accurate torque reading doing it that way.
I opted not to re-use the stock head bolts and went with ARPs. Cheap insurance.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
I opted not to re-use the stock head bolts and went with ARPs. Cheap insurance.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
#31
I used a pry bar to lift up on those exposed tabs on the outward sides of the heads, they were a little stuck but not bad. I didn't have any trouble removing or installing those banjo bolts on the steam crossover w/ the heads on so I can't really help you there. but the corssover is to keep pockets of steam forming in the heads. and like mentioned use thread sealant not loctite, I used the flat head screwdriver/bottle opener on a swiss army knife and an air nozzle to celan the old crud off. GL
#33
Thats really nice. I will do something similar custom work to make the install easier.
With try to drain the block later today, pry the heads off and give them a good cleaning, clean the deck and wrap up the block.
I still haven't removed the crank hub, and I seem to have lost the crank hub bolt as well. If its not something, its always another isn't it?
Does anyone know the specs of the bolt so I can get a replacement?
With try to drain the block later today, pry the heads off and give them a good cleaning, clean the deck and wrap up the block.
I still haven't removed the crank hub, and I seem to have lost the crank hub bolt as well. If its not something, its always another isn't it?
Does anyone know the specs of the bolt so I can get a replacement?
#34
More than likely it was bent. It's easy to do. Best thing to do is for it to be taken off at the very start when tearing down and then it should be the very last thing installed all the while making sure when not on the engine it is in a safe place to where it won't be disturbed.
#35
More than likely it was bent. It's easy to do. Best thing to do is for it to be taken off at the very start when tearing down and then it should be the very last thing installed all the while making sure when not on the engine it is in a safe place to where it won't be disturbed.