Removing cylinder heads
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Removing cylinder heads I was doing the heads on valve spring swap (had changed my mind about the porting), but the tool was starting to become a safety hazard by slipping off the springs numerous times and almost hurting me and my friends.
So, I have unbolted the right head and tomorrow the left will get unbolted. However, there seems to be some sort of pipe around the back, connecting both cylinder heads together. What is this pipe? Can I just undo the fittings holding the pipes to the heads? Any precautions to avoid damaging it?
So, I have unbolted the right head and tomorrow the left will get unbolted. However, there seems to be some sort of pipe around the back, connecting both cylinder heads together. What is this pipe? Can I just undo the fittings holding the pipes to the heads? Any precautions to avoid damaging it?
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Thanks for the incredibly quick replies.
The real problem that happened last night was, as I was installing the second valve lock, the tool slipped off, and the lock got stick half way and broke in half. I found the half broken piece on the floor, and the other was in the valve stem. So I compressed the spring again to get it out, and I did, and while trying to slip in another lock in, it slips again and this time, it locks up on one valve lock. I have tried numerous times to compress the spring to get the valve lock to just come of, its holding tight. The tool jumping all over the place is dangerous, and to me, safety first!
The tool I used is the OTC tool from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4573/?image=large
It worked good for the first 2 springs and then it went all wrong from there. Maybe I messed up, maybe it was cause of the humidity making them slip on each other.
Either way, porting time!
The real problem that happened last night was, as I was installing the second valve lock, the tool slipped off, and the lock got stick half way and broke in half. I found the half broken piece on the floor, and the other was in the valve stem. So I compressed the spring again to get it out, and I did, and while trying to slip in another lock in, it slips again and this time, it locks up on one valve lock. I have tried numerous times to compress the spring to get the valve lock to just come of, its holding tight. The tool jumping all over the place is dangerous, and to me, safety first!
The tool I used is the OTC tool from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4573/?image=large
It worked good for the first 2 springs and then it went all wrong from there. Maybe I messed up, maybe it was cause of the humidity making them slip on each other.
Either way, porting time!
that spring tool sucks!! If you can put the spring swap on hold, get this tool. it would of saved you from pulling the heads and all that frustration. makes swapping springs in the car super easy. i would buy it for the hell of it. Its one of those tools that is nice to have in the tool box when you need it. 
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...available.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...available.html
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Its too late, the driver side head is already unbolted. I will replace the springs with the heads off after some match porting is done.
I will take the heads apart today and inspect them. Will try to get an electric dremel and bits to do the match porting and polishing tonight. Clean them up and install the new springs. But I cannot get them back on as I have to wait for the $$ to flow in for the new head gaskets and bolts.
Would replacement OEM bolts last or should I go ARP?
I will take the heads apart today and inspect them. Will try to get an electric dremel and bits to do the match porting and polishing tonight. Clean them up and install the new springs. But I cannot get them back on as I have to wait for the $$ to flow in for the new head gaskets and bolts.
Would replacement OEM bolts last or should I go ARP?
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Gents, I was advised to get Impala SS head gaskets because they can bump the compression a little.
Are these the ones I should go for? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10105117/
Or these? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12553160/
I can't see the difference...?
Are these the ones I should go for? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10105117/
Or these? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12553160/
I can't see the difference...?
To the OP, Ive heard great things about that spring tool Badazz 97 Ta linked.
I have also seen some really slick braided SS cross over set ups!! Do a search.
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OK gents. I removed all the bolts, but the heads just wont come off. Its like they have been welded on lol
I tried to pull the up, hit them with a mallet to vibrate them a bit loose, nothing would make them budge!
And mine is a 94', where is the block drain plug on my engine?
I tried to pull the up, hit them with a mallet to vibrate them a bit loose, nothing would make them budge!
And mine is a 94', where is the block drain plug on my engine?
OK gents. I removed all the bolts, but the heads just wont come off. Its like they have been welded on lol
I tried to pull the up, hit them with a mallet to vibrate them a bit loose, nothing would make them budge!
And mine is a 94', where is the block drain plug on my engine?
I tried to pull the up, hit them with a mallet to vibrate them a bit loose, nothing would make them budge!
And mine is a 94', where is the block drain plug on my engine?
The block drain plugs are on each side of the block. The one on the passenger side is the knock sensor, and the one on the driver side is a square drive plug.
Make sure you removed all 17 bolts. If they've never been off they will be hesitant to un-seat themselves. Just pry them up the best you can, keeping whatever tool you're prying with away from the deck.
mine did the same thing. i wiggled a small putty knife (heads are getting machined to i wasnt to worried about small scratches) in there and broke the years of heat and pressure keeping them sealed up. Not to mention they have dowels on the block to hold the head in place. so hitting it really isnt moving it at all. they need to go up and down to release it.
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mine did the same thing. i wiggled a small putty knife (heads are getting machined to i wasnt to worried about small scratches) in there and broke the years of heat and pressure keeping them sealed up. Not to mention they have dowels on the block to hold the head in place. so hitting it really isnt moving it at all. they need to go up and down to release it.
ALL the bolts have been removed, only the 1st one in the front of the passenger side head refused to come out easily, the thread had a lot of white-yellow crud on it (lube?) and I think it was overdone. The other was the last one on the driver side, at the firewall.
Could I stick the wooden handle of an axe into one of the ports and pry it up? Crazy I know, but I bet it would work lol