Engine Codes P0335 and P0336, HELP!
The rockers are not that tight though! We made sure of that ****! We tightened them until we could not move the pushrod vertically anymore, then an 1/8 turn after that, and left it right there. I could not hear any ticking, so I didnt play with them anymore. How could that be too tight?
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From: Cheyenne, Wy
We did it turning the crank manually first. Afterwards we started it up and listened but didnt hear any ticking...however it was with the open headers.....may have drowned out any ticking sounds. I am gonna recheck evreything once I get the exhaust fixed
I didn't listen for ticking, as I was open headers as well. But if you losen the set screw and back off the poly lock. You can retighten the poly lock by hand until it seats onto the rocker. It should just stop turning easily by hand. Then you can add your preload with a wrench, then tighten down the set screw, then sinch the poly lock and set screw. That's what I did to all my rockers and the car runs great.
The open headers are NOT his problem.
Absolutely 100% gauranteed there is no possible way the open headers can make it as much of a turd off the line as it is right now.
I drove my car around for 2 days on open MID LENGTHS and it was nothing like his car.
I launched the damn thing at 5000 rpms and had to ride out the clutch to keep it from stalling.
And when it gets going it runs "ok" but not like a "raped ape" as you have stated Corey. Its nowhere in the same ballpark as what a even crappy running heads/cam setup should be.
Something seriously going on.
The codes you're getting are probably because you fucked up the reluctor wheel when reinstalling the front cover.
Ion is right, OBD1 cars dont even have the CPS and he can tune it out.
I dont think its your opti either. Ive been thinking and the only thing I can come up with is that you have the rockers adjusted too tight and its bleeding off compression.
Absolutely 100% gauranteed there is no possible way the open headers can make it as much of a turd off the line as it is right now.
I drove my car around for 2 days on open MID LENGTHS and it was nothing like his car.
I launched the damn thing at 5000 rpms and had to ride out the clutch to keep it from stalling.
And when it gets going it runs "ok" but not like a "raped ape" as you have stated Corey. Its nowhere in the same ballpark as what a even crappy running heads/cam setup should be.
Something seriously going on.
The codes you're getting are probably because you fucked up the reluctor wheel when reinstalling the front cover.
Ion is right, OBD1 cars dont even have the CPS and he can tune it out.
I dont think its your opti either. Ive been thinking and the only thing I can come up with is that you have the rockers adjusted too tight and its bleeding off compression.
z speed:
As ss.slp and I have stated, most likely it's the opti. If your fuel is good and it will hardly rev it's more than likely it's ignition timing related. Even with incorrect rocker preload, it would run better than what your car is. As greg rob has stated the reluctor wheel could be damaged, but it's not likely. Either the opti is installed wrong or bad, maybe even both(it's easy to do on the pin drive opti's. I have installed an opti wrong before and did not know any better, was searchin for any possible clue. I was out throwing parts at the car with no luck. Thats when I broke down and took it to a shop. from that point on, I told myself that I had alot to learn. You are getting info from guys who were down your path years ago. If you are still confused and hoping for some majical solution to be posted, it's not going to happen. Take it to a trustworthy shop and bite the bullet, because it seems that this stuff is a bit over your head at this point. Please do not take offense, I was there too at one time. Good luck I hope you get it dialed in!
As ss.slp and I have stated, most likely it's the opti. If your fuel is good and it will hardly rev it's more than likely it's ignition timing related. Even with incorrect rocker preload, it would run better than what your car is. As greg rob has stated the reluctor wheel could be damaged, but it's not likely. Either the opti is installed wrong or bad, maybe even both(it's easy to do on the pin drive opti's. I have installed an opti wrong before and did not know any better, was searchin for any possible clue. I was out throwing parts at the car with no luck. Thats when I broke down and took it to a shop. from that point on, I told myself that I had alot to learn. You are getting info from guys who were down your path years ago. If you are still confused and hoping for some majical solution to be posted, it's not going to happen. Take it to a trustworthy shop and bite the bullet, because it seems that this stuff is a bit over your head at this point. Please do not take offense, I was there too at one time. Good luck I hope you get it dialed in!
z speed:
As ss.slp and I have stated, most likely it's the opti. If your fuel is good and it will hardly rev it's more than likely it's ignition timing related. Even with incorrect rocker preload, it would run better than what your car is. As greg rob has stated the reluctor wheel could be damaged, but it's not likely. Either the opti is installed wrong or bad, maybe even both(it's easy to do on the pin drive opti's. I have installed an opti wrong before and did not know any better, was searchin for any possible clue. I was out throwing parts at the car with no luck. Thats when I broke down and took it to a shop. from that point on, I told myself that I had alot to learn. You are getting info from guys who were down your path years ago. If you are still confused and hoping for some majical solution to be posted, it's not going to happen. Take it to a trustworthy shop and bite the bullet, because it seems that this stuff is a bit over your head at this point. Please do not take offense, I was there too at one time. Good luck I hope you get it dialed in!
As ss.slp and I have stated, most likely it's the opti. If your fuel is good and it will hardly rev it's more than likely it's ignition timing related. Even with incorrect rocker preload, it would run better than what your car is. As greg rob has stated the reluctor wheel could be damaged, but it's not likely. Either the opti is installed wrong or bad, maybe even both(it's easy to do on the pin drive opti's. I have installed an opti wrong before and did not know any better, was searchin for any possible clue. I was out throwing parts at the car with no luck. Thats when I broke down and took it to a shop. from that point on, I told myself that I had alot to learn. You are getting info from guys who were down your path years ago. If you are still confused and hoping for some majical solution to be posted, it's not going to happen. Take it to a trustworthy shop and bite the bullet, because it seems that this stuff is a bit over your head at this point. Please do not take offense, I was there too at one time. Good luck I hope you get it dialed in!
! I was realizing its most likely my opti today reading this thread and a couple others. before I was just really hopping for it to be something else. right now I'm just waiting for my friend to come over w/ one of those voltometer things to do the opti checks then I'll take it from there and will most likey end up pulling, and maybe replacing the opti, hafta find out. thanks for the help btw kingLt-1 ss.slp and everyone else. and sorry for the hi-jack z28camaro! The car revs fine with no load on it, not like its struggling to rev or anything. Just noooo ***** from takeoff. You have to be super careful not to stall it just trying to get going normally.
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From: Cheyenne, Wy
Yeah, I have to put a high rev on it just to get it going driving normal or it will stall. I know you saw that the other day greg, you killed it once and almost did 2 more times. But like you said, rev is fine. Wait.....could it be clutch??? I noticed ALOT of burnt clutch smell all night...I have a Valero Stage 2....its what was in the car when I got it.......I THOUGHT that would be enough...what if its not?
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Wilmington, NC
Yeah Z28Camaro30Ann I have the same problem. I got a 96 TA and its thrown P0336, P0335, P0300, and one other. My dad says it's the sensor; but I replaced it twice, new connector (was messed up), and now i'm stomped again. Anyone figure this out? I'm probably going to take it to a shop.
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P0335 and P0336 Hello everyone I am a technician at a Buick dealership and I am currently working on a Buick Roadmaster with an LT1 it is currently throwing the p0335 and p0336 DTC.
I joined the site today to see if anybody had any answers for inside on to these DTC but it seems that no one has got any answers so I followed the flowchart at work and obviously it says so you know check the ohms in the wires you know everything checked out good.
I trace the yellow signal reference wire to the red connector at the PCM it is actually pin number 1
I traced the pink and black wire to the red connector on the the PCM it is pin 9 the other wire the is pin 14. The test then had me check to see if there was continuity between the yellow wire and the ground.
The problem that I've ran into is that my work is supposed to have this thing that is a signal replicator that supposed to replicate the engines rotating at 45 mph but we don't have that tool.
So if the ckp test passed it told you that you needed to replace the timing chains. if the test failed it told you to replace the PCM.
I think what we're going to end up doing is replacing the PCM and I will have to let you guys know what happens when I do that.
I do have the actual paperback books with the wiring schematics in case anybody wants the picture of the wire schematic
I joined the site today to see if anybody had any answers for inside on to these DTC but it seems that no one has got any answers so I followed the flowchart at work and obviously it says so you know check the ohms in the wires you know everything checked out good.
I trace the yellow signal reference wire to the red connector at the PCM it is actually pin number 1
I traced the pink and black wire to the red connector on the the PCM it is pin 9 the other wire the is pin 14. The test then had me check to see if there was continuity between the yellow wire and the ground.
The problem that I've ran into is that my work is supposed to have this thing that is a signal replicator that supposed to replicate the engines rotating at 45 mph but we don't have that tool.
So if the ckp test passed it told you that you needed to replace the timing chains. if the test failed it told you to replace the PCM.
I think what we're going to end up doing is replacing the PCM and I will have to let you guys know what happens when I do that.
I do have the actual paperback books with the wiring schematics in case anybody wants the picture of the wire schematic
Last edited by EBRoy86; Dec 13, 2017 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Adding information
