Engine Codes P0335 and P0336, HELP!
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Engine Codes P0335 and P0336, HELP! I have gotten a couple of responses from people in other topics, but I wanna make one specifically for this to get more response on this specific issue.
Before my cam swap/tune the only engine codes I threw were O2's, EGR, EVAP, and that was it...
After the cam swap/tune I tuned out the EGR, EVAP, and it is not running lean so the O2's stopped throwing codes...however it started 2 NEW codes.
As stated in the title, IMMEDIATELY after I started the engine for the first time it threw the P0335, and P0336 codes.
I swapped out the CPS and reset the computer. I drove it for about 15 minutes and they stayed off....I cut the engine and after a few minutes started it back up, and they were back again!
It pops each code 2 times so it shows 4 codes, but they repeat.
I dont miss that I know of, the CPS is BRAND new, plug is in good.
I have been told by a couple or reliable sources that it sounds like my opti is going out, but I wanna see if anyone else has had this before and can give a little more insight maybe?
Thanks guys!
Before my cam swap/tune the only engine codes I threw were O2's, EGR, EVAP, and that was it...
After the cam swap/tune I tuned out the EGR, EVAP, and it is not running lean so the O2's stopped throwing codes...however it started 2 NEW codes.
As stated in the title, IMMEDIATELY after I started the engine for the first time it threw the P0335, and P0336 codes.
I swapped out the CPS and reset the computer. I drove it for about 15 minutes and they stayed off....I cut the engine and after a few minutes started it back up, and they were back again!
It pops each code 2 times so it shows 4 codes, but they repeat.
I dont miss that I know of, the CPS is BRAND new, plug is in good.
I have been told by a couple or reliable sources that it sounds like my opti is going out, but I wanna see if anyone else has had this before and can give a little more insight maybe?
Thanks guys!
well I'm having the same problem after my cam swap as well but am only getting the P0336 code. me and my buddy are still iin the process of figuring it out how ever... did you check for dirty pig tails? check the wires for continuity? I THINK we have my problem traced to the pink and black reference wire that goes back to the PCM but am not sure just yet. I'll def be keeping an eye on this thread tho, and will keep you posted if we figure out my problem 1st. GL
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I just talked to Ion with Madtuner. He said that it does not effect driveability because the CPS is only used for emissions purposes. He said the code can be tuned out so that it does not pop a CEL...I have heard the opti could be going out so I think I am going to replace that first...If noone else has anything else it could be, and the opti does not fix it, then I will say **** it and just send my computer back to Ion to get it tuned out...
I know Ion knows his **** but...what does the crank position have to do w/ emissions? I don't get it...and if it doesn't effect driveability than that means I must have something else wrong w/ my car
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I have an oil leak behind my opti right now, so I have to take it out anyways. My solution to eliminate that code, I am just gonna go ahead and replace the opti when I fix that oil leak. If that does not fix the issue, then I am saying eff it and tuning it out...
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Verdad Gallardo Did you ensure that you have the right cam dowel pin length? I don't remember what was said in your other threads.
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Would that throw this code? Everything else is running great except for my 1st gear accelleration which we have all but determined that its my lack of backpressure with my open headers right now...
Timing seems great, car idles and runs good...would the dowel pin be the cause of that??
Timing seems great, car idles and runs good...would the dowel pin be the cause of that??
Would that throw this code? Everything else is running great except for my 1st gear accelleration which we have all but determined that its my lack of backpressure with my open headers right now...
Timing seems great, car idles and runs good...would the dowel pin be the cause of that??
Timing seems great, car idles and runs good...would the dowel pin be the cause of that??
A dowel pin too long or short could damage the rotor and cause you to missfire and lose performance.
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I dont have a misfire though...at all.
I only lose performance in 1st gear from a dig. Once it gets going it runs like a raped ape throughout the rest of my power band. Only my low end torque is suffering, nothing else. No miss, no P0300, no other codes besides P0335 and P0336.
If the dowel pin was the peoblem would I not be misfiring and losing power throughout the entire power band??
I only lose performance in 1st gear from a dig. Once it gets going it runs like a raped ape throughout the rest of my power band. Only my low end torque is suffering, nothing else. No miss, no P0300, no other codes besides P0335 and P0336.
If the dowel pin was the peoblem would I not be misfiring and losing power throughout the entire power band??
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You can even tell in the video I posted that it is not missing because he holds the rpm's at like 4 or 5 grand before he launches and it is smooth and steady.
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And ss.slp.ls1, PLEASE dont get me wrong man, I am NOT arguing...you knowledge of LT1's FAR exceeds mine and I respect your input. I am merely trying to get a full understanding of what is going on, that is all. I am not saying your wrong or that the dowel is not the issue...
Wrong, back pressure is a myth. I drove my car open headers, with 18" straight pipe after the o2's (so not so much fresh air hits the o2's and messes up the readings) and noticed no change in acceleration after I put my ORY pipe on. Only difference was less crackling and popping. So toss the open headers thing out the window...anything after the collectors that doesn't aid in scavenging will not improve performance.
A dowel pin too long or short could damage the rotor and cause you to missfire and lose performance.
A dowel pin too long or short could damage the rotor and cause you to missfire and lose performance.
And ss.slp.ls1, PLEASE dont get me wrong man, I am NOT arguing...you knowledge of LT1's FAR exceeds mine and I respect your input. I am merely trying to get a full understanding of what is going on, that is all. I am not saying your wrong or that the dowel is not the issue...
The open headers are NOT his problem.
Absolutely 100% gauranteed there is no possible way the open headers can make it as much of a turd off the line as it is right now.
I drove my car around for 2 days on open MID LENGTHS and it was nothing like his car.
I launched the damn thing at 5000 rpms and had to ride out the clutch to keep it from stalling.
And when it gets going it runs "ok" but not like a "raped ape" as you have stated Corey. Its nowhere in the same ballpark as what a even crappy running heads/cam setup should be.
Something seriously going on.
The codes you're getting are probably because you fucked up the reluctor wheel when reinstalling the front cover.
Ion is right, OBD1 cars dont even have the CPS and he can tune it out.
I dont think its your opti either. Ive been thinking and the only thing I can come up with is that you have the rockers adjusted too tight and its bleeding off compression.
Absolutely 100% gauranteed there is no possible way the open headers can make it as much of a turd off the line as it is right now.
I drove my car around for 2 days on open MID LENGTHS and it was nothing like his car.
I launched the damn thing at 5000 rpms and had to ride out the clutch to keep it from stalling.
And when it gets going it runs "ok" but not like a "raped ape" as you have stated Corey. Its nowhere in the same ballpark as what a even crappy running heads/cam setup should be.
Something seriously going on.
The codes you're getting are probably because you fucked up the reluctor wheel when reinstalling the front cover.
Ion is right, OBD1 cars dont even have the CPS and he can tune it out.
I dont think its your opti either. Ive been thinking and the only thing I can come up with is that you have the rockers adjusted too tight and its bleeding off compression.
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The rockers are not that tight though! We made sure of that ****! We tightened them until we could not move the pushrod vertically anymore, then an 1/8 turn after that, and left it right there. I could not hear any ticking, so I didnt play with them anymore. How could that be too tight?