Project Bad Ass True Duals complete. Final pics inside...
01-21-2010, 11:36 AM
#68
Any tips or trick that you'd recommend or any tough spots to try to get around? I like to be prepared.
01-21-2010, 11:59 AM
#69
Thanks Bro. I've ordered my Magnaflow X and I went ahead and ordered the Jeg's street rodder exhaust so hopefully that will have everything I need in it to make it work + I have a friend that works for Walker (Dynomax) who is gonna hook me up with one of their 3" Ultra Flo X mufflers, then I should be set. I've ordered my UMI PHB relocater and a new adjustable PHB that I've needed for a while. Just trying to get there from here!
Any tips or trick that you'd recommend or any tough spots to try to get around? I like to be prepared.
Any tips or trick that you'd recommend or any tough spots to try to get around? I like to be prepared.
The hardest part is getting the pipes to go over the axle using the stock pipe routing. It is very tight and will require trimming of the upper panhard bracket (not the bar) to get it right along with tons of trial and error fitting of pipes. Since you are going with the upper PHB relocator, things just got much easier for you.
All I did was tack-weld pipes (in three spots) together till the whole thing was done. I used a cutoff saw and a sanding drum to make and dress the cuts. Start at the front and work your way back. Also make sure you use hangers as you go. You want the thing solid as you work toward the back or you will be going in circles. I also used many slip joints so there would be a large amount of adjustability in the pipes. If you weld it all solid, there is little adjustability available. I have had to adjust mine countless times to get it perfectly dialed in.
The one thing that would have made it so much easier would to be to have had access to a lift. Doing it on jackstands and all the trips up and under plus limited access to areas really slowed things down.
01-21-2010, 12:04 PM
#70
The Manaflow is actually a knock-off of the Dynomax True-x muffler, so I have been told. Therefore they appear to be nearly the same.
The hardest part is getting the pipes to go over the axle using the stock pipe routing. It is very tight and will require trimming of the upper panhard bracket (not the bar) to get it right along with tons of trial and error fitting of pipes. Since you are going with the upper PHB relocator, things just got much easier for you.
All I did was tack-weld pipes (in three spots) together till the whole thing was done. I used a cutoff saw and a sanding drum to make and dress the cuts. Start at the front and work your way back. Also make sure you use hangers as you go. You want the thing solid as you work toward the back or you will be going in circles. I also used many slip joints so there would be a large amount of adjustability in the pipes. If you weld it all solid, there is little adjustability available. I have had to adjust mine countless times to get it perfectly dialed in.
The one thing that would have made it so much easier would to be to have had access to a lift. Doing it on jackstands and all the trips up and under plus limited access to areas really slowed things down.
The hardest part is getting the pipes to go over the axle using the stock pipe routing. It is very tight and will require trimming of the upper panhard bracket (not the bar) to get it right along with tons of trial and error fitting of pipes. Since you are going with the upper PHB relocator, things just got much easier for you.
All I did was tack-weld pipes (in three spots) together till the whole thing was done. I used a cutoff saw and a sanding drum to make and dress the cuts. Start at the front and work your way back. Also make sure you use hangers as you go. You want the thing solid as you work toward the back or you will be going in circles. I also used many slip joints so there would be a large amount of adjustability in the pipes. If you weld it all solid, there is little adjustability available. I have had to adjust mine countless times to get it perfectly dialed in.
The one thing that would have made it so much easier would to be to have had access to a lift. Doing it on jackstands and all the trips up and under plus limited access to areas really slowed things down.
Well I have the lift I'll just need to get my Dad's welder to the shop so trial and error should get it done & if this works I'll be doing his car too. This is prolly gonna be popular so I'm considering a jig.
03-22-2010, 09:47 AM
#71
Well I went to the dyno to try to determine if there are any gains with my new true duals. Only other changes from the last trip to the dyno were the addition of a 58mm TB.
The power gains over the old open Borla catback appears to be around 10 RWHP and 3 RWTQ with the cutouts opened.
With the cutouts closed on the duals, I lost 7 RWHP and 3 RWTQ and still made more power than the closed Borla.
The 58mm may have contribured some as well.
The power gains over the old open Borla catback appears to be around 10 RWHP and 3 RWTQ with the cutouts opened.
With the cutouts closed on the duals, I lost 7 RWHP and 3 RWTQ and still made more power than the closed Borla.
The 58mm may have contribured some as well.
05-11-2010, 12:01 PM
#76
Well, I finally got my exhaust done! Basically just like this except 3" & I used bullets. I have a tru x muffler but it didn't allow enough space for the turns in & out of the muffler. I love it!! I have my ground clearance back, it looks stock again and most of all I can put a sticker on my car, I'm happy! Thanks for this idea!!
05-11-2010, 12:17 PM
#77
Good deal.
I can easily see how trying to do 3" pipes and the dual in/out muffler would be nearly impossible. That extra 1/2" diameter takes up much more space where the bends need to be. As you can see in my pics, I barely had room for the 2.5" pipes. In fact that one real tight radius pipe I have exiting the mufler and going to the right tip cost me nearly $90 IIRC. TOTL would have been easier and cheaper plus it would have flowed a tad better but was Hell bent on dual tips.
Did you use the pan hard bar relocator to open up room for the dual 3" pipes over the axle? I cant see how you did it any other way cause its tight up in that pinch. Post some pics.
I can easily see how trying to do 3" pipes and the dual in/out muffler would be nearly impossible. That extra 1/2" diameter takes up much more space where the bends need to be. As you can see in my pics, I barely had room for the 2.5" pipes. In fact that one real tight radius pipe I have exiting the mufler and going to the right tip cost me nearly $90 IIRC. TOTL would have been easier and cheaper plus it would have flowed a tad better but was Hell bent on dual tips.
Did you use the pan hard bar relocator to open up room for the dual 3" pipes over the axle? I cant see how you did it any other way cause its tight up in that pinch. Post some pics.
05-12-2010, 10:10 PM
#78
I would like to se too, since I run a 3 inch with Dyno Bullitts. Mine is offsett to the side and dumped at the axle, but I love how it sounds. Lil loud inside though, like crank the radio as high as she goes. Anyhow I am going to revamp here soon as my lt1 is coming out and going into my Third gen car with a 5 speed. I screwed up and spliced four straight pipes together ggot good coverage, but 2 curved pieces make for a nicer design far as being straighter. I think I am going for over the axle on both sides this time since I am running the 3 inch more for the sound than the performance.
