Project Bad Ass True Duals complete. Final pics inside...
Any tips or trick that you'd recommend or any tough spots to try to get around? I like to be prepared.
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Any tips or trick that you'd recommend or any tough spots to try to get around? I like to be prepared.
The hardest part is getting the pipes to go over the axle using the stock pipe routing. It is very tight and will require trimming of the upper panhard bracket (not the bar) to get it right along with tons of trial and error fitting of pipes. Since you are going with the upper PHB relocator, things just got much easier for you.
All I did was tack-weld pipes (in three spots) together till the whole thing was done. I used a cutoff saw and a sanding drum to make and dress the cuts. Start at the front and work your way back. Also make sure you use hangers as you go. You want the thing solid as you work toward the back or you will be going in circles. I also used many slip joints so there would be a large amount of adjustability in the pipes. If you weld it all solid, there is little adjustability available. I have had to adjust mine countless times to get it perfectly dialed in.
The one thing that would have made it so much easier would to be to have had access to a lift. Doing it on jackstands and all the trips up and under plus limited access to areas really slowed things down.
The hardest part is getting the pipes to go over the axle using the stock pipe routing. It is very tight and will require trimming of the upper panhard bracket (not the bar) to get it right along with tons of trial and error fitting of pipes. Since you are going with the upper PHB relocator, things just got much easier for you.
All I did was tack-weld pipes (in three spots) together till the whole thing was done. I used a cutoff saw and a sanding drum to make and dress the cuts. Start at the front and work your way back. Also make sure you use hangers as you go. You want the thing solid as you work toward the back or you will be going in circles. I also used many slip joints so there would be a large amount of adjustability in the pipes. If you weld it all solid, there is little adjustability available. I have had to adjust mine countless times to get it perfectly dialed in.
The one thing that would have made it so much easier would to be to have had access to a lift. Doing it on jackstands and all the trips up and under plus limited access to areas really slowed things down.
Well I have the lift I'll just need to get my Dad's welder to the shop so trial and error should get it done & if this works I'll be doing his car too. This is prolly gonna be popular so I'm considering a jig.
The power gains over the old open Borla catback appears to be around 10 RWHP and 3 RWTQ with the cutouts opened.
With the cutouts closed on the duals, I lost 7 RWHP and 3 RWTQ and still made more power than the closed Borla.
The 58mm may have contribured some as well.
I keep putting that off. I will once again try to get some vids.
I did however get some vids of the dyno pulls with the cutout open. I will edit and post them ASAP.
I can easily see how trying to do 3" pipes and the dual in/out muffler would be nearly impossible. That extra 1/2" diameter takes up much more space where the bends need to be. As you can see in my pics, I barely had room for the 2.5" pipes. In fact that one real tight radius pipe I have exiting the mufler and going to the right tip cost me nearly $90 IIRC. TOTL would have been easier and cheaper plus it would have flowed a tad better but was Hell bent on dual tips.
Did you use the pan hard bar relocator to open up room for the dual 3" pipes over the axle? I cant see how you did it any other way cause its tight up in that pinch. Post some pics.









