I've been daily driving my new 383 for about 8,000 miles now and have had constant -but not consistent- knock retard ever since the thing was installed. It does it in open loop 100% of the time. I'll give it gas and there is noticeable lack of power and the knock retard on my scanmaster will show degrees proportional to the amount of throttle I'm giving. If I keep letting the rpm's climb, it will hit a point around 3,500 where all the power will come back and the car pulls like it should. This happens at part throttle as well as open. When I shift gears it will bog again until I hit the right rpm and get it's power back. The exhaust sounds like garbage during all this, really raspy, kinda slappy... hard to explain. Sometimes it'll pop when I shift, sometimes it won't. I noticed when I come to a stop on an incline with the car facing down, the engine almost dies then catches itself. Only on an incline, and only in open loop. It used to do it all the time, open loop, closed loop, flat road, uphill. Now just facing downhill in open loop. Very strange.

It shows knock retard very often in closed loop too, but not all the time. I have a datamaster file of the car doing what I'm describing. Unfortunately it was the first time I used the software and didn't start recording until the car was in closed loop, but it shouldn't make a difference, it was showing all kinds of knock.

I've been trying to set up an FTP but it's kicking my butt so I'll email it to whoever will look at it for now. I have the datamaster file in .uni and .csv for those who don't have the program. I'll take any help I can get, this is my DD and I have this bad feeling it's gonna crap the bed at any time.

 

bump for the morning crew

 

is there a way to get the opti on wrong

 

any dtc's ?

who did the tune?

Bob

 

You sure the rockers are on right and not loose? Mine was getting knock retard when the rocker broke.

 

didn't install those knock sensors too tight did you? 14 ft lbs is the MAX, and I generally take them to 11-12.

 

No, it's a keyed vented unit.

The only consistent dtc is 24 for the VSS. When the car is barely moving it'll throw a SES light but once I speed up after a few seconds it goes away.

Wong's Performance in Vancouver, WA tuned it. I'm still working with him to figure all this and the MAF issue out. He hasn't looked at the datalog yet, too busy

I'm not sure. I haven't had the valve covers off since the engine was put in. Peeking underneath them is on my to-do list though because they seem kinda noisy.

Not sure about that either. I don't have a tool to measure torque but what is 14 ft lbs? About as tight as you can go with a regular wrench?

Thanks for the replies. Still no luck with the FTP, if anyone wouldn't mind reading my datalog, I'll email it.

 

you'll need a good 3/8" torque wrench for knock sensors. it's on the loose side..

 

Get a better tuner.

Mine knocked new. Now, I never see any KR.

 

Haha, I think he's pretty much my only option in this state. He's always got T/A's, vette's, Camaro's from LTx to LSx in that shop too. The knock is a result of a malfunction somewhere, I don't think it can be tuned.

I'll check that knock sensor too, see how tight it is.

 

excessive valvetrain noise.

what's your DCR/SCR and plugs/gap?

 

I had a similar problem with my build, and it was throwing an odd DTC. Well, I got way under the car to take a look, and on installation the knock sensor wire got torn. Fixed the wire, replaced the sensor, and cleared my codes. Just something to check out. Important lesson learned...don't rush things, espicially when you weren't aware the knock sensor is in a water jacket...warm-hot coolant...me surprised...=nasty mess

 

The only info I have on the compression ratio is from Golen's site where he says it's 11:1. The plugs are Autolite 103's, his recommendation for his N/A engines.

I also tested the ks wire for continuity a while back and it checked out.