Solid roller set up lt1
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 220
From: North Carolina
Solid roller set up lt1 What is the benefit of going with a solid roller set up over a hydraulic and what needs to be done to the lt1 to make it a solid roller set up, Thanks to anyone with info
The only real downside is you have to adjust the valves every few thousand miles, but my buddy has been running his solid roller SBC and has set the valves 3 times total in 3 years. Set them before firing, reset them after break-in, and checked them after 3k miles and one had loosened up. He checks them every oil change and that have been holding up fine.
There are lots of advantages to going solid roller, they build alot more power than a hydraulic cams, and theres alot more options, but you need all of the supporting mods for a solid roller, you also need to get rid of the knock sensor if you plan on running the stock PCM. More people will chime in with more advantages and disadvantages.
It really depends on your build, hydraulic may be better suited for a mild build.
There are lots of advantages to going solid roller, they build alot more power than a hydraulic cams, and theres alot more options, but you need all of the supporting mods for a solid roller, you also need to get rid of the knock sensor if you plan on running the stock PCM. More people will chime in with more advantages and disadvantages.
It really depends on your build, hydraulic may be better suited for a mild build.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 220
From: North Carolina
i was just wondering because ive seen solid roller motors making big hp and was just wondering the difference and what needs to be done to swap it to a solid roller setup
Just be sure to use quality springs and rockers (I suggest shaft-mount) to support a S/R setup.
Something people often forget is that S/R setups do not like low RPM,
a lack of oil can lead to heat-related problems in the valvetrain.
Discuss the complete package with your cam vendor.
Can you drive it on the street? Sure you can.
Is the optimal solution for most street/strip cars? Not really.
Something people often forget is that S/R setups do not like low RPM,
a lack of oil can lead to heat-related problems in the valvetrain.
Discuss the complete package with your cam vendor.
Can you drive it on the street? Sure you can.
Is the optimal solution for most street/strip cars? Not really.
Solid rollers are a great option for a strip/street motor IMO. They can be perfectly streetable if set up correctly. A good set of springs (I like PSI) is a must as well as a good set of 3/8 pushrods, and preferably a shaft rocker setup. As for the problem of them having oiling issues on the street due to low rpm this is alieveated by using HIPPO (High Pressure Pin Oiling) Lifters. These lifters are a bit more expensive but are widely avilable, personally I like Crane and Morel. As for adjusting: I lashed mine on install and then again after one heat cycle, since then I have checked them but they have not moved and I have quite a bit of time on the motor already including alot of track/dyno time and about 400 miles of street driving. For a daily driver I would probably not go SR but for a weekend warrior I would say SR all the way. They will make more power and have more valvetrain stability when set up properly and they will last if built correctly. Plus I kind of dig that sewing machine noise.
Mike
Mike
Last edited by quik95lt1; Sep 9, 2009 at 09:33 AM.
The size of pushrod and valvetrian options rely on how aggressive the cam used. I am using a 5/16"/.080 wall thick pushrod, however they are only 6.125" long because I am using a Isky RedZone lifter which is a linkbar setup which means the rocker body is very tall. The need to support 250lb on the seat an 500 on the nose. The SR cam I am using also yields 7000 to 7200rpm shift points therefore I have not yet gone to a shaft mount because I feel my valvtrain is stable enough to handle such RPM.
What I was told and live by is if building a SR for the street you must not skimp on the lifters. As already stated there are lifters out there that can support low rpm usage w/ a solid roller with no issues. You may loose a bit of overall oil pressure because of the extra oiling ports the lifters have, but that can be solved by using a set of oil restricting pushrods.
I wouldn't have my setup any other way than how it is now. I adjust valves every oil change just because...
What I was told and live by is if building a SR for the street you must not skimp on the lifters. As already stated there are lifters out there that can support low rpm usage w/ a solid roller with no issues. You may loose a bit of overall oil pressure because of the extra oiling ports the lifters have, but that can be solved by using a set of oil restricting pushrods.
I wouldn't have my setup any other way than how it is now. I adjust valves every oil change just because...
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true The size of pushrod and valvetrian options rely on how aggressive the cam used. I am using a 5/16"/.080 wall thick pushrod, however they are only 6.125" long because I am using a Isky RedZone lifter which is a linkbar setup which means the rocker body is very tall. The need to support 250lb on the seat an 500 on the nose. The SR cam I am using also yields 7000 to 7200rpm shift points therefore I have not yet gone to a shaft mount because I feel my valvtrain is stable enough to handle such RPM.
What I was told and live by is if building a SR for the street you must not skimp on the lifters. As already stated there are lifters out there that can support low rpm usage w/ a solid roller with no issues. You may loose a bit of overall oil pressure because of the extra oiling ports the lifters have, but that can be solved by using a set of oil restricting pushrods.
I wouldn't have my setup any other way than how it is now. I adjust valves every oil change just because...
What I was told and live by is if building a SR for the street you must not skimp on the lifters. As already stated there are lifters out there that can support low rpm usage w/ a solid roller with no issues. You may loose a bit of overall oil pressure because of the extra oiling ports the lifters have, but that can be solved by using a set of oil restricting pushrods.
I wouldn't have my setup any other way than how it is now. I adjust valves every oil change just because...
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Solid roller cam needs the following:
solid roller springs with at least 240 lbs.@ the seat/540 lbs. open( depending the aggresiveness of the cam)
solid roller lifters (.300" tall for our LT1 block)
.080" wall push rods
strong reliable rocker arms,ie.Comp pro magnum
solid roller springs with at least 240 lbs.@ the seat/540 lbs. open( depending the aggresiveness of the cam)
solid roller lifters (.300" tall for our LT1 block)
.080" wall push rods
strong reliable rocker arms,ie.Comp pro magnum
