LT1 Clutch pedal issues
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
LT1 Clutch pedal issues Posting this for my buddy, he was driving his 97' LT1 M6 on the freeway the other day, pushed his clutch to downshift and it dropped to the floor. Comes back up a few seconds later and when he pushes down on it there is a lot of resistance and it makes a rattling noise, also gives you some serious kick back on the clutch.
He can still power-shift but cannot shift with the clutch.
Any ideas guys? Thanks!
He can still power-shift but cannot shift with the clutch.
Any ideas guys? Thanks!
I just sent a guy on LTXtech a new slave and master. He had the same issue. He tried the slave first and nothing, put the new MC in and it was good to go!
Inspect it and check for leaks b4 you do anything.
Inspect it and check for leaks b4 you do anything.
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
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From: Rochester, NY
When he bolts the new slave back on, make sure the clutchfork is still full engaged on the throwout bearing.
You can tell its engaged when the round indent on the fork that the slave pushes into is directly lined up between the 2 studs that stick out of the bellhousing that the slave bolts to.
If you put it all back together with the fork hanging out a bit you'll probably blow your slave cylinder to pieces when you push the rock hard clutch pedal. I know from experience (and am not in anyway proud of that).
You can tell its engaged when the round indent on the fork that the slave pushes into is directly lined up between the 2 studs that stick out of the bellhousing that the slave bolts to.
If you put it all back together with the fork hanging out a bit you'll probably blow your slave cylinder to pieces when you push the rock hard clutch pedal. I know from experience (and am not in anyway proud of that).
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 966
Likes: 0
From: Redondo Beach, CA
When he bolts the new slave back on, make sure the clutchfork is still full engaged on the throwout bearing.
You can tell its engaged when the round indent on the fork that the slave pushes into is directly lined up between the 2 studs that stick out of the bellhousing that the slave bolts to.
If you put it all back together with the fork hanging out a bit you'll probably blow your slave cylinder to pieces when you push the rock hard clutch pedal. I know from experience (and am not in anyway proud of that).
You can tell its engaged when the round indent on the fork that the slave pushes into is directly lined up between the 2 studs that stick out of the bellhousing that the slave bolts to.
If you put it all back together with the fork hanging out a bit you'll probably blow your slave cylinder to pieces when you push the rock hard clutch pedal. I know from experience (and am not in anyway proud of that).
Thanks for the advice guys.
So my buddy had his car looked at today at his shop, they are saying it is the clutch. What is the likely-hood of it being the clutch? or are they just trying to screw him for $350 labor?
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Before he spends money on anything, have him pop the slave cylinder off the bellhousing and make sure the fork is on the throwout and is locked into it like it should. It it moves around then it may be the throwout bearing that is shot (sometimes they fall apart completely and the fork has nothing to "pull" against). If the fork is nice and tight on the throwout bearing then I would look at the master/slave cyl.
If the master/slave isn't leaking then I would pull the trans off before spending the money and taking the time to swap them, it's a pain in the *** either way but at least no money will be wasted. It could be broken clutch disc or pressure plate components but check the other stuff first.
If the master/slave isn't leaking then I would pull the trans off before spending the money and taking the time to swap them, it's a pain in the *** either way but at least no money will be wasted. It could be broken clutch disc or pressure plate components but check the other stuff first.
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