LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

What shoud I do next??????

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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 09:53 PM
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Default What shoud I do next??????

Im stumped theres so much I want but not sure what to do next!
Drag shocks
N2o
lower a-arms
drag brakes
front bumper support(so i can remove the stock supports)
Shift light
line lock
roll bar
etc. etc. etc.
or anything else you can think of and whats the order you would do this in?
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 09:57 PM
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n20! I just ordered my hsw dry plate kit. They are running a 20% off sale until midnight on everything.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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I really want N20 now but also wanna see how fast I can get it NA at the same time and alot of that other stuff will help alot with that. Or just slap on the N20.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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slap on the spray. best thing ive every done. I hope to be in the 10.9s next time out. by the way nice car. that thing sounds great
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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Get things that will help you improve your 60' such as drag shocks and anti-roll bar
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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I would finish off the chassis first as it will be needed even more once you spray it.

shocks.. I suggest Strange double adjustables for the front and simple Comp Engineering rears

rear sway bar.. I suggest UMI's new drag bar

a-arms will drop a little weight, but its a big expense for little gains IMO

shift light is a great idea being a 6 speed car

6pt rollbar especially if you plan to keep hitting GLD

linelock for a 6 speed is a good idea as well
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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I argree with Larry, why put the nitrious on when you know that is gonna push you past the ET's needing a roll bar? Drag sway bar, shocks, 6pt bar, then hit it with the gun!
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:42 PM
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Nitrous can be last! You have good power to start with so I'd say:

Shift light, drag shocks,line lock,ditch the 10 bolt if u haven't did it already!
lastly any weight you can remove would help.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by riceburnerZ28
Nitrous can be last! You have good power to start with so I'd say:

Shift light, drag shocks,line lock,ditch the 10 bolt if u haven't did it already!
lastly any weight you can remove would help.
I have a S60 in it.
I Like Larry/Fergy's plan cause Im gonna need it all anyways and I dont want some half *** kit. I want something like Larry's Wich is big bucks.
You guys think the UMI drag bar is ok for the street. My stock Sway bar looks so whimpy back there! Damn thats another thing I want!
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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Yea I agree! The kit like larry's is what you need for your setup, like you said it cost big bucks tho...
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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I would guess 2k+ for something like that
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 07:14 AM
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my g/f just got me the Wolfe drag racing rear sway bar. 369 and you get 10% off right now
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 08:08 AM
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I'm gonna agree with a few people in the tread, I would get your suspension dialed in and get you a roll bar. Either way you are going to need it.

I was in a hurry to get nitrous back on the car but now that I am leaning more towards finishing off my suspension (which all I need is front tubular A Arms) and doing a roll cage. I want to go as fast as I can with a fully suspended street car on the new 383 and then spray the 200 hit. LOL
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:36 AM
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start from the bottom up. suspension first, if your auto build the trans, 12 bolt or 9in rear, and then start spraying the **** out of it with no worries of breaking anything
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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Suspension first! Definetly start with some drag shocks and then rear sway bar then I would say cage. Try to optimize your setup now and then when you spray the car you will be properly setup and will run killer times.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1 SPEED
I would finish off the chassis first as it will be needed even more once you spray it.

shocks.. I suggest Strange double adjustables for the front and simple Comp Engineering rears

rear sway bar.. I suggest UMI's new drag bar

a-arms will drop a little weight, but its a big expense for little gains IMO

shift light is a great idea being a 6 speed car

6pt rollbar especially if you plan to keep hitting GLD

linelock for a 6 speed is a good idea as well
Care to explain why you would recommend Strange DA's upfront and Comps out back? I'm looking into buying some Strange SA's all the way around but am open to alternatives since I'm no expert in the drag shock field...
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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Another for the roll bar. I got lucky a LS1 SS car had been in a wreck, I got a chromoly 6 pt. installed for less than it would have cost for it new before shipping.

So sad my 13 second car has a roll bar, a lot of people see that and think its fast. I just tell them I go corner carving with this thing, and will probably see more chances of a roll over than at a dragstrip.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by StealthFormula
Care to explain why you would recommend Strange DA's upfront and Comps out back? I'm looking into buying some Strange SA's all the way around but am open to alternatives since I'm no expert in the drag shock field...
SAs are fine for the rear because you want a stiff shock in the back to plant the tires. the problem with the front is that they adjust compression and rebound (i believe those are the correct terms) in the same setting so itll come up fast but it will also drop back down fast which takes the weight off of the rear tires. the DAs on the other hand can be adjusted separately so you can set them like a 90/10 drag shock to throw the front end up and make it hard for it to drop back down thus keeping the weight planted on the back tires for better traction. Strange makes a set of front SAs that are single adjustable to always be stiff coming down but your able to set them so that it doesnt always throw the front up if you want to drive them on the street. i havent been able to find any 90/10s for our cars if your looking for an all out drag strut though

someone please correct me if im wrong
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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If you don't have a shift light I would definitely consider get one. I hated trying to look down at my stock tack, plus it was not accurate. I would shift just before 6500 RPM on the OEM tach and the actual engine RPM was around 6100. I am using this shift light:

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=656

I'm sure there are many different brands on the market but I like this one because its small and easy to install and adjust. I got the one that has the launch feature, it works good for launching on the street at consistent RPMs but I don't use at the track.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 86formula
SAs are fine for the rear because you want a stiff shock in the back to plant the tires. the problem with the front is that they adjust compression and rebound (i believe those are the correct terms) in the same setting so itll come up fast but it will also drop back down fast which takes the weight off of the rear tires. the DAs on the other hand can be adjusted separately so you can set them like a 90/10 drag shock to throw the front end up and make it hard for it to drop back down thus keeping the weight planted on the back tires for better traction. Strange makes a set of front SAs that are single adjustable to always be stiff coming down but your able to set them so that it doesnt always throw the front up if you want to drive them on the street. i havent been able to find any 90/10s for our cars if your looking for an all out drag strut though

someone please correct me if im wrong
Thanks for the reply. Now I have to learn how the heck to set up DA shocks in the front lol.

Car is not a drag car so I want to be able to adjust it for decent street handling when I need to, so the DA's if I am absorbing things right would be possible to do so.
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