97ws6 formula bulletproof rebuild??
97ws6 formula bulletproof rebuild?? My beast currently has 175xxx miles and think it's about time for a rebuild. Fortunately one of the techs here at work is selling me a 94LT1 w/ M6. The block is already hot tanked but still needs machine work. 1st question is what all should be machined? He said it looked like it could need to be bored out. I'm basically wanting to build one to have around 350-375rwhp. I'm planning on getting there through a cam and full bolt on's(is that possible?). He has a lt4 hot cam and a set of aluminum roller rockers already. I've been reading that the LT4 hot cam is old technology and all, but i would also like the car to have a somewhat smooth idle. Should i get that cam, or search for a good custom ground one? Bolt on's will include LT headers, 52 or 58mm TB, factory intermediate pipe with borla muffler, and i'll be getting a tune. Will i need bigger injectors? The engine kit i'm using is from summit and comes with forged pistons. I know i'll need to swap the timing cover from the 97 to the 94, and i'll just be using my 97 intake on top of the 94 built long block. I've read that the spun bearings LT1's experience are usually caused by weak rod bolts, so i'll be using new ARP rod bolts. Basically i want this engine to haul me into the 12's and still be able to drive it daily for another 175,000miles. Any other known issues i could take care of while building to make this build bulletproof would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
My beast currently has 175xxx miles and think it's about time for a rebuild. Fortunately one of the techs here at work is selling me a 94LT1 w/ M6. The block is already hot tanked but still needs machine work. 1st question is what all should be machined? He said it looked like it could need to be bored out. I'm basically wanting to build one to have around 350-375rwhp. I'm planning on getting there through a cam and full bolt on's(is that possible?). He has a lt4 hot cam and a set of aluminum roller rockers already. I've been reading that the LT4 hot cam is old technology and all, but i would also like the car to have a somewhat smooth idle. Should i get that cam, or search for a good custom ground one? Bolt on's will include LT headers, 52 or 58mm TB, factory intermediate pipe with borla muffler, and i'll be getting a tune. Will i need bigger injectors? The engine kit i'm using is from summit and comes with forged pistons. I know i'll need to swap the timing cover from the 97 to the 94, and i'll just be using my 97 intake on top of the 94 built long block. I've read that the spun bearings LT1's experience are usually caused by weak rod bolts, so i'll be using new ARP rod bolts. Basically i want this engine to haul me into the 12's and still be able to drive it daily for another 175,000miles. Any other known issues i could take care of while building to make this build bulletproof would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Look into an XFI cam from COMP or a custom cam from LE or AI. I am sure they have many that would suit your needs. Also, I would suggest a new set of valve springs to accomodate the cam and if those RR's are 1.6s instead of 1.5s.
Not sure on the injectors...you might need to go larger, but not by much, say 30lbs. I will let someone else chime in here on that.
Hope this helps.
24# SVO injectors should do the trick ($179 on summit). Check out http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...D=22866&CtgID=
for a professional products 58mm TB ($161.95). Take care of the lifters while the motor is apart with the LS7s if they even look questionable. As for the cam, i'd give the Lunati 60121 Voodoo a glance (Summit $279.95), they have a gradual ramp style and keep from slamming the valve shut and are easier on the valvetrain. And change the timing chain while it's out, they're cheap, or you can buy a lunati or cloyes timing set for $99.
for a professional products 58mm TB ($161.95). Take care of the lifters while the motor is apart with the LS7s if they even look questionable. As for the cam, i'd give the Lunati 60121 Voodoo a glance (Summit $279.95), they have a gradual ramp style and keep from slamming the valve shut and are easier on the valvetrain. And change the timing chain while it's out, they're cheap, or you can buy a lunati or cloyes timing set for $99.
^+1 that is the first time I have seen someone (besides myself) advocate the Lunati cam, I have it and love it. Makes good power and is very streetable. OP I basically went the same route you are but used the stock shortblock, mods and numbers are in sig
Thanks to all of you. I'm picking up a BBK 52mm TB this weekend locally for $140. The combo i'm buying is a 1995 LT1 w/ M6 out of a trans am. It also includes an LT4 hot cam, 1.6 RR's, he says everything but springs. Will the LT4 springs work fine? They are kinda cheap. Or should i try to sell the additional cam and everything but the RR's?
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Verdad Gallardo well i'm kinda stuck with the lt4 cam regardless, he's wants it all gone, but $1000 for everything besides the pedals for the t56 isn't too bad of a buy in my opinion, harness and computer included. a/c compressor just took a dump, anyone got one cheap? Oh yeah, I'm gonna need a pedal setup too! Anyone know if the 5spd F-body pedal setup is the same???
Last edited by oldNslow89TA; Sep 23, 2009 at 03:34 PM.
^^^ I just upgraded to the 2003(DynoSim5) version from the previous 2000. Drag and Dyno. I'll tell you what, don't laugh because they've been pretty close thus far. Like, +/-5hp and +/-.1 sec in the quarter. Alot of the pro's use stuff like that for cam selection so they don't have to try 10 different cams at $300 a piece.
Last edited by 93Z2871805; Sep 23, 2009 at 08:00 PM.