need new springs tho.... 
This cam?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon TN
This cam? Alright I came across this cam on craigslist. http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...csid=1107&sb=2 I am going to be rebuilding my lt1 around christmas ( weak cylinder and bad opti ) I most likely won't have the money for heads or port work at that time. I could pick this up pretty cheap and i just thought i would see what you guys thought. i have exhaust and i could get it tuned afterwards, injectors if i needed them.. It looked pretty mild to me. Would it be a good cam to run for awhile until i open the motor back up again? would it add a little usable power or just topend i couldn't use? My long term plans is an LE set up. Just thought a cheap cam would make it a little more fun for awhile.
Oh also since i need to go cheap i would probly reuse most of the valvetrain. except maybe the pushrods if i needed a different length. I'm not an engine builder. Just a first time assembler. Thanks in advance for the info
Oh also since i need to go cheap i would probly reuse most of the valvetrain. except maybe the pushrods if i needed a different length. I'm not an engine builder. Just a first time assembler. Thanks in advance for the info
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon TN
i saw that it had the same duration as the cc503 but the lift is different. or maybe i'm reading it wrong. Compare the specs between the comp site and the lt1 valvtrain write up https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ion-guide.html
i saw that it had the same duration as the cc503 but the lift is different. or maybe i'm reading it wrong. Compare the specs between the comp site and the lt1 valvtrain write up https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ion-guide.html
That's a fantastic cam to run. I ran that for a while before I could afford to do my LE2 setup. The cc503 picked up something like 6-7mph for me in the quarter. I felt a strong increase of power in the mid-range and top-end without a loss down low. It's IMO the best all around cam for a stock headed/stock bottom end setup.
I actually DD'd the car with that cam an hour each way to school for awhile and it was great. Anymore cam would be too much for that IMO. If your Auto just make sure you have a large enough stall converter.
BTW: Valve Springs are required, I would suggest the Crane 10308-1, they are cheap and will work fine. If your motor was never opened up before then stock 7.200" pushrods will do the trick.
I actually DD'd the car with that cam an hour each way to school for awhile and it was great. Anymore cam would be too much for that IMO. If your Auto just make sure you have a large enough stall converter.
BTW: Valve Springs are required, I would suggest the Crane 10308-1, they are cheap and will work fine. If your motor was never opened up before then stock 7.200" pushrods will do the trick.
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i can tell you personally, i'm running a cam similar to the 847, on stock heads/bottom end, and it runs pretty strong. But one thing you do NOT want to cheap out on is the valvetrain products. it is absolutely necessary to get new springs, valve seals, and locks, and probably roller rockers. but again thats just my opinion
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Launching!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon TN
Ok thanks for the info guys. If i had realized this was the cc503 i woulda already bought it lol. Lets hope he still has it. So i should get new pushrods and springs and valve seals? I am not framiliar with valve seals. What do they look like? where are they?
They slip down the top of the valve. The springs will go over them when you install them. They are cheap, and a good maintenance thing to do, especially since you'll have the motor apart that far anyways.
might be running on the higher end of the DC with stock 24's but you should be alright as long as you have a good tuner. if you do decide to upgrade some 30# SVOs or something slightly larger should do the job and supply adequate fueling for the LE h/c package you're later planning on
you have to remove the valve stem seals to remove the "seat" for the stock springs so no reason to reuse them
you have to remove the valve stem seals to remove the "seat" for the stock springs so no reason to reuse them
TECH Regular
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 433
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what kind of rebuild? stock? bored over? new rotating assembly?
the cost of the rebuild will cost be determined by what you need and want to replace.
for a point of a reference the machine work on my block cost about $450 and included:
-hot tank
-freeze plugs
-cam bearings
-deck
-bore
-hone
the cost of the rebuild will cost be determined by what you need and want to replace.
for a point of a reference the machine work on my block cost about $450 and included:
-hot tank
-freeze plugs
-cam bearings
-deck
-bore
-hone
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon TN
The number one cylinder just has 25% compression. I just need to fix that and install the cam and springs. It was rebuilt 40 k miles ago so i would think the block was reconditioned then. So basically just taking everything apart and putting it back together. (If it's just the rings) I guess i might end up needing a new piston possibly. what else could cause the loss of compression?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon TN
rather than start a new thread i figured i would use this one. I looked at the crane valve spring kit mentioned above and i would like to go with that. In the notes part of the product info it says NOTE (1): Requires 3/8'' type multi-groove valve stem locks.
NOTE (2): Requires 11/32'' type single-groove valve stem locks. just wondering if this is of any consiquence.
Second could anyone recommend some 1.6 RRs with a link? i'm looking at going cheaper with these but i would love to hear what the difference is in the stamped comp magnums and the more expensive aluminum ones thanks
NOTE (2): Requires 11/32'' type single-groove valve stem locks. just wondering if this is of any consiquence.
Second could anyone recommend some 1.6 RRs with a link? i'm looking at going cheaper with these but i would love to hear what the difference is in the stamped comp magnums and the more expensive aluminum ones thanks
Last edited by ebeard; Dec 1, 2009 at 12:41 AM.
