Fresh 410 Stroker Lt1 Vid.
09-20-2010, 02:02 PM
#62
Like everything it just depends on which parts you go with but that looks like nice work. As Jeff sid there are parts that take less clearancing than others though. The Cam is where things get tighter as well.[/QUOTE]
The rods came with some L-19 bolts but there was no way they were going to clear so I changed them out for some ARP2000's.
The rods came with some L-19 bolts but there was no way they were going to clear so I changed them out for some ARP2000's.
08-01-2011, 01:10 AM
#67
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hey guys its been a long time ...i finally updated my username to match my ci..lol ...the motor is strong and holding up well but now im wanting a bigger cam and in need of a 12bolt or s60 rear cause my 10 bolt is hangin by a thread... havin pcm probs and replacin
g that asap... Hope to have updated vids soon
g that asap... Hope to have updated vids soon
08-01-2011, 10:38 PM
#68
hey guys its been a long time ...i finally updated my username to match my ci..lol ...the motor is strong and holding up well but now im wanting a bigger cam and in need of a 12bolt or s60 rear cause my 10 bolt is hangin by a thread... havin pcm probs and replacing that asap... Hope to have updated vids soon
g that asap... Hope to have updated vids soon
08-02-2011, 10:47 AM
#74
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Forgot to say that it also depends on the rods used. I had Eagle 6" rods and my builder said if I were to use those the block would have to be filled due to their tall rod bolts. Compstars were recommended, they were used and block fill need not apply.
08-02-2011, 11:20 AM
#75
How the heck do you fit a 4" crank in an LT1 block - did you have to fill the block at all? (hit the water jacket?)
My builder didn't want to go past 3.75" (383) to be on the safe side - I always dreamed about a 396 though (4.06 bore x 3.825 stroke, or 4.03 x 3.875 stroke).
My builder didn't want to go past 3.75" (383) to be on the safe side - I always dreamed about a 396 though (4.06 bore x 3.825 stroke, or 4.03 x 3.875 stroke).
08-02-2011, 11:44 AM
#76
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i had to use custom stroker specific rods and do a lil grinding on the boltheads for extra wiggle room....had the block sonic tested afterwards and no block fill needed. the cam is custom small basecircle comp cut for it to spec
08-02-2011, 05:41 PM
#77
Interesting points about the rods, bolts, and even cam.
Still, I thought a 396 cid was pushing it (safely) for an LT1 block. I've seen a few guys running 401 cid motors and knew it was possible (although most people tend not to advertise if their blocks had to be filled).
410 sounds badass.
Still, I thought a 396 cid was pushing it (safely) for an LT1 block. I've seen a few guys running 401 cid motors and knew it was possible (although most people tend not to advertise if their blocks had to be filled).
410 sounds badass.
08-03-2011, 08:22 AM
#78
hey guys its been a long time ...i finally updated my username to match my ci..lol ...the motor is strong and holding up well but now im wanting a bigger cam and in need of a 12bolt or s60 rear cause my 10 bolt is hangin by a thread... havin pcm probs and replacing that asap... Hope to have updated vids soon
g that asap... Hope to have updated vids soon
08-03-2011, 11:28 AM
#79
Is there any minimum (or desired) tolerance when it comes to how close you can dig next to the water jacket? I understand that some people are better at clearancing a block than others; some can do it, others punch through it - and there are tools to help. Should you be pleased if you manage to fit a big crank in the block and the material left in front of the jacket is paper thin?
Some people say .100" is the min wall thickness, however if you hardblok fill it you can make the wall paper and still get "some" runs out of it.
Last edited by fex77k; 08-03-2011 at 11:40 AM.
