Cutting out Badly when hot, perfect when cold. Advise?
10-03-2009, 08:17 AM
#21
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The MAF connection, just like the CPS connection is bad about fraying and shorting out. Make sure you check the wiring as well when you are cleaning the MAF. Look to see if the wires inside the MAF are still there and haven't been broken or bent.
10-03-2009, 02:51 PM
#23
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So i got 12v keyed power to the maf. It has no SES light, But it will still only start it its WOT, I let it idle for prolly 10 mins, went to back up and as soon as i let off the gas it dies. Im at my wits end with this car, If i cant get it going very soon for little to no money, it going back in the garage untill whenever i can get motivated...or sold.
10-04-2009, 04:09 PM
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So i ran it alittle today with the datalogger and i realized that either the program is not reading the engine coolant for some reason or the sensor is messed up because it is reading -40 degrees, this would deffinatly contribute to my problem also. Is their anyway i can test the sensor because its brand new and i dont want to just go buy another.
10-04-2009, 05:48 PM
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Also as far as the computer tells me the car never left closed loop. And i let it come up to 200 degrees and turned the fans on and it came back to 170 before i shut it down, so i assume it should have gone to open loop.
10-05-2009, 06:58 PM
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Update: I pulled the ECT pigtail today and tested voltage, positive 5 VDC. So i jumped the terminals on the pigtail and the coolant gauge on the datalogger read 303.8, maxxed out. So its looking like my 2 week old duralast sensor is broken and causing all these problems.
10-06-2009, 04:35 PM
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Ok bought another new ECT sensor today, she runs mint. Only problem is a small stutter when coming to a stop, but it recovers okay and drives fine. Ill see if i can sort that out on the dyno. Thanks for the help!
Does anyone know where my timing advance should be at idle? and normal driving conditions?
Does anyone know where my timing advance should be at idle? and normal driving conditions?
