Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

So i think im finally getting to the end of my roster of small issues after my build. Now that i finally got it idling and running great when cool, it started cutting out alittle once it got warm. I started driving it alittle bit and it got worse and worse as the temperature went up to the point where i could barely drive it and was praying i make it home. Let it cool down and it runs good again. I dont have have the ICM spaced out from the head, ill go try that right now but in the mean time i would love any ideas you guys have.

ICM?
COIL?

LT1nitrouZ

dont mean to put the curse on you, but could be opti. Could be 02 sensors as well, run much race gas through it? I have never heard of an ICM going out... sure it has happened, but unlikely, local autoparts store can test the ICM though.

Check engine light on?

trippinholyman

o2 sensors prolly man

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

It does have an SES light. My buddies $5k snap-on scanner wouldnt come up with a code though? I ordered some datalogging software today so hopefully i can pull a code off it. Will the code tell me if its front or rear o2's? I was thinking it must have something to do with open Vs. Closed loop running, because she runs like a ****** top for the first 7-10 mins of running. No race gas through it either this is a lower comp motor- around 9.4:1 or so, and this motor only has about an hour of run time on it.

Thanks guys

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

also i took the ICM off and it had a ton of corrosion between it and the heat sink, and between the heat sink and the coil bracket. I cleaned it all up and put it back together spaced out alittle and its the same problem still.

baylove

iTrader: (35)

wait a minute have you changed your heads or cam without a tune ?? if so thats your problem after my heads and cam install it would do the same pcmforless did a tune and it runs good now

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

That corrosion you mentioned is actually a gel that is to help it stay cool. You can replace with wheel bearing grease. Have you checked fuel pressure? I had very similar issues and it was because my fuel pressure was dropping under load and there wasn't enough fuel, causing detonation and giving me all sorts of problems. It was very bad when the car was heat soaked because there wasn't enough fuel to cool things down. Once I changed the pump out and got my pressure where it needed to be I was good to go.

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

I have a trifecta tune in it now. Before the tune it was sputtering and popping and backfiring like crazy, none of that now so im sure this is a seperate problem.

I ordered scanning/datalogging software today and also a fuel pressure gauge so ill check into that asap.

sdotlog

coil maybe?

Razor_Blade

iTrader: (8)

Mine did that when the O2 sensors were bad.

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

Front or rear? I assume rear because i believe the car doesnt read them in closed loop right?

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

Front, the rear O2's don't really do anything.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

if its the o2's the problem will clear up at WOT

I'd imagine it'd be a heatsoaked ignition component like ICM, coil, etc. or a sensor only used in closed loop

unless of course you have a coolant leak onto the opti and the longer you run the car the more coolant that gets on it, then again this is a bit of stretch

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

I really dont think its the opti, When the car dies it will start again, you have to hold the pedal WOT though. When its cold you dont have to give it any gas just turn the key and it starts instantly. And it DOES seem to clear up when at WOT, im gonna jack it up today and make sure all my 02 wires/ connections are still good. Im not going to buy them though untill i can get my scanning program and check whatever code im getting.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

well if you're throwing a code it's most likely o2s, but that's just imo

-o2's aren't read during open loop (car cold)
-o2's are read from when car reaching operating temp (car warm)
-o2's aren't read during WOT
-bad o2's will often throw a check engine light

advanced auto, auto zone, should have a free OBD2 scanner to check codes

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

UPDATE: good thing i waited on the buying the o2 sensors because that wasnt the code, and they are both reading the same voltage. However it is currently throwing codes

P0100- Mass Air Circuit
P0118- Engine coolant temp high reading
P1642- Vehicle Speed output circuit
P1657-

So ill go get a new MAF tomarrow i guess, i have no idea why 0118 and 1642 went off, that car was at 160 degrees when i was reading it, and 1642 i dont think matters but its wierd still. And It wouldnt tell me what 1657 is if anyone can help with that?

Also i erased all these codes and they came back.

Last night i also discovered my crank position sensor wire was burned in half, must have been like that for a few days at least, sure enough it had a code for that, i fixed it though and the code is gone. My question is how can the car run without that sensor working?

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

there are two coolant temp sensors, one for the gauge and one for the pcm I forget which is which but one is in the water pump and the other is in the driver's side cylinder head

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

P1657 2nd and 3rd gear blockout relay circuit malfunction

skip shift I assume?

Razor_Blade

iTrader: (8)

I would try cleaning the MAF and it's connections before replacing it. The temp sensor on the wp is the one that goes to the pcm. Again, clean and check the connections befor spending any money.

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

The sensor on the waterpump is brand new and so is the gauge sensor, will clean the maf later tonight and see if that works, thanks guys. looks like either way the maf will fix it.