Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure if I'm going 355 or 383 but its my daily driver. Ill need forged pistons at least right?

It is my daily driver, however I plan to pack a punch, being able to run at least high 11s. However I won't go to the track more than once or twice a year so rpms won't be high very often just if I'm goofing around.

So do I need to go all forged or just forged pistons fine?

Will an eagle rotating assembly be good enough? If its better than stock parts I would guess it would be safe enough.

Do I need I or H beam rods? Does it matter that much?

Where should I buy from? AI has some good ones, all forged components $2000

Lastly would a 383 be a waste for a daily driver? Should I just do a 355 with ai or le heads and be my best bet for a quick DD?

ADM

Reuse your stock crank if going 355. Depending on your budget (which would determine going 355 or 383 and your hunger for power and torque), you could get Mahle or SRP (Federal Mogul) forged pistons. Maybe get some piston rings for N2O if you intend to spray a lot.

Forged I beam would be good enough for an NA all rounder (maybe for your goals, stock rods will even do just fine), but H beams are more focused for FI which puts on more stress.

Buy what you need, not what you want. And remember this, do not try and build your motor for more than what you need. You don't need a 1500HP capable con-rod when all you are looking for is a 400whp engine.

Remember you have machine work costs and labour if you don't do your own wrenching.

People seem to be negative about Eagle cranks lately. But no one makes a more reliable parts for its cars than GM itself (its a personal opinion).

Good luck.

Trick450r

iTrader: (7)

I would probably reuse the stock crank pending its condition. In my opinion its not even worth going through the process and expense of rebuilding an engine and not going all forged (pistons and con rods anyway if using stock crank). If your shooting for sub 500 crank hp then an eagle rotating assembly (or just rods) will probably get the job done. Mahle offers a pretty good deal on forged pistons too. Ive always gone by the theory that you should build the bottom end as solid as you can afford, that way you never have to think about it again. And you also have room to grow.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

If money is the main concern, do a 355 using the stock crank. If power is the concern 383 is the way to go. If I were you and did the 355, I'd still upgrade the rods and pistons. It's way easier to make power from a 383 than a 355 just because of the cubic inch advantage. That's not saying a 355 can't run because they can, that's just saying it's an easier route to make power considering you're not planning on revving it to the moon. Considering that the rod is the weakest link and as a personnal preference I'd change them in any performance application except on 500hp or less big blocks when I know those rods are strong enough. Besides, rods are fairly cheap. Check out Ohio Crankshaft for both rods and cranks(only if you're going to do a 383). Forged/H-beam vs cast/I-beamis going to be up to you, but if it's less than 500hp, go cast crank/I-beam IMO.

Check this out for some ideas:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...evy/index.html

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

Yes if its a money issue just do the forged pistons and call it the day, if not do all forged!

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

Just an offer but I'm selling a fully balanced corvette nodular crank, 5.7" GM Powdered Metal rods w/ ARP bolts, TRW forged .100" dome pistons 4.030 bore, and a SFI Flexplate. It was fully balanced by lebrun engineering out of groton, CT. I ran 11.40 @122 w/ this short block for about a year revving it to 6800 with no problem at all. The motor looked perfect when it came apart with about 4k miles on it.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

more cubes = better driveability, just a thought and this is coming from a guy who DD's his car

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

Yea, honestly if your spending any kind of money on a crankshaft for the motor just build a 383. Your going to love the extra low end torque for the street and if you build the top end right it will out pull a 355 anyday on the high end too.

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

I found this thread to have some good parts to use

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ottem-end.html

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

I know a fully forged bottom end is best and I originally planned that. Found a complete forged 383 rotating assembly through andvanced induction. However I wondered if I would need all that considering its my daily driver and I won't be going to 6k rpms every time it runs.

Money is not really a concern it will just take longer to get it up and running. I want to use AI's 200cc heads or LE stage 2 or 3 so that gives u guys a horsepower range and what I might need for my bottom end.

I don't have a prob reusing stock crank just thought it would be best to start with new parts and preferably strong not stock parts. However if its in good shape and can handle the power I plan then I'm glad to save money.

So ohio for parts? And ill go 383 unless something comes up and I have to turn it into a budget build.

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

So I checked out ohio crankshaft and they have this set up:

383 Street Rodder Small Block Chevy Price • SRP forged flat-top pistons • Forged I-beam 6" rods • 5140 3.75 forged steel crank • Race bearings and rings • Internally balanced $1,295


Or Advanced induction has:

Ai Forged 383cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package: Compstar Forged 4340 3.75" Stroke Crankshaft Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc, -16cc, or -26cc) Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks Main and Rod Bearings Included Internally Pre-Balanced by Callies/CompStar! $2196



Or is there a better route to save money and because the above is overkill? I guess that's the question. I don't know where to get the parts and I want a good deal don't want to screw myself or spend more than I need.

Thanks for help so far.

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

Anyone? maybe just suggest what brand and i can pick up a forged setup from them?

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

I'm using an Ohio 4340 forged crank, Ohio 4340 H-Beams and KB pistons. Price was great and I have no complaints.

That street rodder setup looks solid just make sure you specify 1pc rear main seal and make sure you use a internally balanced flywheel/flexplate. Chip will be able to hook you up.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

For high 11s in an NA f-body the stock shortblock will be fine.

AI made my Caprice capable of 11.9s in good weather and it is still comfortable enough for the wife to nap in on trips. You have a BIG weight advantage and the current AI 200cc heads are better than the 190s I have. They are using better springs and valves than when I bought too.

11.9s in my car is just slicks and cold weather. That is through 2.5" exhaust, midlength 1 5/8 headers 3400 stall 3.73s, nothing wild. Should be really easy with an f-body.

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

I'm not doubting the stock block but if its got 150k+ miles and I put ported heads and big cam its my daily driver I can't afford for it to break. Plus since its already out to install the heads and cam y not bore block and put stronger parts in for reliability?

The street rodder setup will save me some and its forged If I remember correctly.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I've heard great things about Ohio's stuff and SRP's are a quality piston, the AI setup sounds pretty unbreakable but overkill imo.

I beams with decent crank/pistons should be more than enough for a low rpm n/a motor

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

thanks thats basically what i was looking for. i wont say its a low rpm motor, but its not a drag car, so it wont see mostly 6k rpms all its life. Just when im goofing around or racing it will see those high rpms.

Ohio Crankshaft also offers shortblocks. the rotating assembly im looking at is $1300, then i would have to get my block cleaned up, bored 30 over, etc. then shortblock assembled.

Would i save money, or be better off doing one of ohio crankshafts shortblocks? they have a 388 with a New GM 4 bolt block assembled for $2600.

Or they even have a 406 SBC Shortblock with new Dart SHP block assembled for $3000.

Or would getting the rotating assembly and getting a local shop to do the bore and assembly be cheaper or smarter choice?

thanks for the help and i promise thats the last question. i hope

Sk8phreak88

iTrader: (4)

For just a 383 build save the cash and take your block to the shop. You won't need to have crazy 4 bolt mains drilled and put in.\ huge amounts of machine work done to the block like a 396 or bigger block.

Should only run you around 5-700 at a good machine shop around your place.

Cruzer23

iTrader: (3)

Ya i guess i should check out how much a local shop would do the block work and assembly of short block and compare.

if its pretty close i think it would be better to let ohio crankshaft put it together because its their parts, they know them best. Not to mention its a new block and i dont have to take down my daily driver to take the motor out and have it rebuilt.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

hot tank, hone, bore, freeze plugs, deck, cam bearings, at a local shop ran me $400 I think