cam only 11 sec LT1s
....95Z t-tops stock motor w/longtubes, 3" Flowmaster cat-back, subrame connectors,double adjustable lower control arms, aftermarket torque arm (front mount moved off the trans to the rear trans mount brace and driveshaft loop) 4.10 gears, 28" MT ET Streets, stock 4L60E with Vigilante 3200 converter. Weight was 3390 before I took out the TC,Cruise, ABS controls, and put on a VFN pin-on glass hood. I did put 28# injectors in because the duty cycle on the 24's were maxed out WOT....
Here are some suggestions.
1. Get a log book and start documenting your changes.
2. Be consistent in setting up your car.
3. Get the car to a chassis dyno with a wide band.
4. Record DA (even when you dyno). With the internet it is very easy to get DA without buying anything. Tune for DA.
5. Do not worry about what everyone else is running with the same mods. Use their results as a goal if you like, but it's your car that is important to you.
6. Light weight synthetic fluids. If you get leaks, fix them!
7. Change your intake for the 1996-97 intake (12552138).
8. Install LT4 valve springs and retainers.
9. Make sure that those adjustable rear control arms are of equal length.
10. Set pinion angle to -2 deg.
11. Shocks and springs. Soft up front, stiff in back.
12. Get your front end aligned.
13. Aluminum driveshaft.
14. Are your subframe connectors welded?
15. Video your car leaving. If it has body roll you need to get it out with an air bag and larger than stock sway-bar.
16. Get your rotors turned and install new pads.
17. Run the least restrictive exhaust that you can live with. I would suggest cut-outs at the dragstrip.
18. Run as much tire pressure as you can get away with. At least 40 PSI in the front. You should be able to run 15 PSI in bias-ply rear tires and at least 18 PSI in radials.
19. I have always had better results with smaller injectors than the experts tell me to run. My Firebird runs 6.50's in the 1/8th in decent air with 24 lb injectors. Our stock internals project picked-up when we switched to 19 lb injectors at 50 PSI!
20. Have fun!!
Don't expect big gains with any single change. Combination is everything!
Good Luck,
Daren
Last edited by GIZMO; Oct 4, 2009 at 07:59 AM.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
There are lots of things that you can do to go fast. I would suggest trying to get the most out of what you have before doing any major changes like changing the transmission/converter.
Here are some suggestions.
1. Get a log book and start documenting your changes.
2. Be consistent in setting up your car.
3. Get the car to a chassis dyno with a wide band.
4. Record DA (even when you dyno). With the internet it is very easy to get DA without buying anything. Tune for DA.
5. Do not worry about what everyone else is running with the same mods. Use their results as a goal if you like, but it's your car that is important to you.
6. Light weight synthetic fluids. If you get leaks, fix them!
7. Change your intake for the 1996-97 intake (12552138).
8. Install LT4 valve springs and retainers.
9. Make sure that those adjustable rear control arms are of equal length.
10. Set pinion angle to -2 deg.
11. Shocks and springs. Soft up front, stiff in back.
12. Get your front end aligned.
13. Aluminum driveshaft.
14. Are your subframe connectors welded?
15. Video your car leaving. If it has body roll you need to get it out with an air bag and larger than stock sway-bar.
16. Get your rotors turned and install new pads.
17. Run the least restrictive exhaust that you can live with. I would suggest cut-outs at the dragstrip.
18. Run as much tire pressure as you can get away with. At least 40 PSI in the front. You should be able to run 15 PSI in bias-ply rear tires and at least 18 PSI in radials.
19. I have always had better results with smaller injectors than the experts tell me to run. My Firebird runs 6.50's in the 1/8th in decent air with 24 lb injectors. Our stock internals project picked-up when we switched to 19 lb injectors at 50 PSI!
20. Have fun!!
Don't expect big gains with any single change. Combination is everything!
Good Luck,
Daren
Here are some suggestions.
1. Get a log book and start documenting your changes.
2. Be consistent in setting up your car.
3. Get the car to a chassis dyno with a wide band.
4. Record DA (even when you dyno). With the internet it is very easy to get DA without buying anything. Tune for DA.
5. Do not worry about what everyone else is running with the same mods. Use their results as a goal if you like, but it's your car that is important to you.
6. Light weight synthetic fluids. If you get leaks, fix them!
7. Change your intake for the 1996-97 intake (12552138).
8. Install LT4 valve springs and retainers.
9. Make sure that those adjustable rear control arms are of equal length.
10. Set pinion angle to -2 deg.
11. Shocks and springs. Soft up front, stiff in back.
12. Get your front end aligned.
13. Aluminum driveshaft.
14. Are your subframe connectors welded?
15. Video your car leaving. If it has body roll you need to get it out with an air bag and larger than stock sway-bar.
16. Get your rotors turned and install new pads.
17. Run the least restrictive exhaust that you can live with. I would suggest cut-outs at the dragstrip.
18. Run as much tire pressure as you can get away with. At least 40 PSI in the front. You should be able to run 15 PSI in bias-ply rear tires and at least 18 PSI in radials.
19. I have always had better results with smaller injectors than the experts tell me to run. My Firebird runs 6.50's in the 1/8th in decent air with 24 lb injectors. Our stock internals project picked-up when we switched to 19 lb injectors at 50 PSI!
20. Have fun!!
Don't expect big gains with any single change. Combination is everything!
Good Luck,
Daren
As far as exhaust, I have considered running duals with turn-downs just before the rear axle. Wonder how much that would pick up? I'm also running stock timing, and i know I need to tweak that some. Just haven't gotten around to working on that part. I have had fuel issues last part of last fall and this year. I was chasing stuff around trying to fix that. I installed a Racetronix fuel pump but still had low pressure at the rail. so I put in an adjustable regulator and the pressure stays up. then the Duty cycle issue came to light and I installed the 28's. But I am having fun
As always....... thanks for your insight and help.
vehicle weight and 60 ft are the key to track times in ANY car.
A Yank/Vig 3600-4400 stall, drag shocks, M'T Drag radials, no front sway bar, etc, will be the right suspension for a 1.50-1.60 60 ft (or better). You will just need a descent cam to pull 6200-6500 RPM ( with complimenting valve trane parts) and free flowing intake/exhaust. a CAI, 58 MM TB, 1 3/4 LT's, 3" true duals, etc will get you there with enough tuning.
Lloyd
A Yank/Vig 3600-4400 stall, drag shocks, M'T Drag radials, no front sway bar, etc, will be the right suspension for a 1.50-1.60 60 ft (or better). You will just need a descent cam to pull 6200-6500 RPM ( with complimenting valve trane parts) and free flowing intake/exhaust. a CAI, 58 MM TB, 1 3/4 LT's, 3" true duals, etc will get you there with enough tuning.
Lloyd
I was at a pretty big regional event at New England Dragway a few weeks ago and they had the IHRA Stock class. One guy had 2 LT1 cars that he was running. Both cam only (same lift as stock cam, though), and stock heads/engine, suspension etc - per the class rules.
One car weighed 3200 lbs and was running 11.0X and the other was running 10.30's @ 130 mph weighing 2900 lbs! Both cam only!
One car weighed 3200 lbs and was running 11.0X and the other was running 10.30's @ 130 mph weighing 2900 lbs! Both cam only!
idk how they do it
ive got a cam only lt1 306 cam/supporting valvetrain rockers nsa comp pro mags ect...
stock heads/intake/bottom end
built 60-e and yank ss3600
10 bolt with 3.42
raceweight 3350
car cuts 1.7 60' and goes 7.8 at 89 on motor (about a 12.4
150 shot we dont wanna 60' any faster but went 1.48 and a 6.86 at 100.3 or so...and a 10.93 at 125
cars setup for n20 and i know would run mid 11's on motor with just a gear change..im guessing weight is killing me? i cant find any more weight in this car...its 3160 without a driver...
in the same setup car with 3.73 and 150 pounds more i went a 12.08 petaling it to a 1.60 60' at 112...auto car
ive got a cam only lt1 306 cam/supporting valvetrain rockers nsa comp pro mags ect...
stock heads/intake/bottom end
built 60-e and yank ss3600
10 bolt with 3.42
raceweight 3350
car cuts 1.7 60' and goes 7.8 at 89 on motor (about a 12.4
150 shot we dont wanna 60' any faster but went 1.48 and a 6.86 at 100.3 or so...and a 10.93 at 125
cars setup for n20 and i know would run mid 11's on motor with just a gear change..im guessing weight is killing me? i cant find any more weight in this car...its 3160 without a driver...
in the same setup car with 3.73 and 150 pounds more i went a 12.08 petaling it to a 1.60 60' at 112...auto car
Last edited by daniel6718; Oct 11, 2009 at 11:06 AM.
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I have gone 12.08 @ 112 in 2800DA with the cc503 cam. As soon as I get back to a 1/4mi track in this good air I'm sure it will go 11's. The car weighs 3500 with me in it and I'm 200lbs.
idk how they do it
ive got a cam only lt1 306 cam/supporting valvetrain rockers nsa comp pro mags ect...
stock heads/intake/bottom end
built 60-e and yank ss3600
10 bolt with 3.42
raceweight 3350
car cuts 1.7 60' and goes 7.8 at 89 on motor (about a 12.4
150 shot we dont wanna 60' any faster but went 1.48 and a 6.86 at 100.3 or so...and a 10.93 at 125
cars setup for n20 and i know would run mid 11's on motor with just a gear change..im guessing weight is killing me? i cant find any more weight in this car...its 3160 without a driver...
in the same setup car with 3.73 and 150 pounds more i went a 12.08 petaling it to a 1.60 60' at 112...auto car
ive got a cam only lt1 306 cam/supporting valvetrain rockers nsa comp pro mags ect...
stock heads/intake/bottom end
built 60-e and yank ss3600
10 bolt with 3.42
raceweight 3350
car cuts 1.7 60' and goes 7.8 at 89 on motor (about a 12.4
150 shot we dont wanna 60' any faster but went 1.48 and a 6.86 at 100.3 or so...and a 10.93 at 125
cars setup for n20 and i know would run mid 11's on motor with just a gear change..im guessing weight is killing me? i cant find any more weight in this car...its 3160 without a driver...
in the same setup car with 3.73 and 150 pounds more i went a 12.08 petaling it to a 1.60 60' at 112...auto car
11.90's full weight minus the spare, full bolt ons, drag setup suspension, 26" tire, 10 bolt with 4.10's, 6 speed, with a 218/230 nitrous cam with the nitrous turned off.
Gears will make you spin up faster, getting you in the power band faster, so it should make you go faster, but you have to be able to keep the tire from spinning.
28" tire is too big for stock gears or even 3.73's. Move to 26" tire and that should help also.
Gears will make you spin up faster, getting you in the power band faster, so it should make you go faster, but you have to be able to keep the tire from spinning.
28" tire is too big for stock gears or even 3.73's. Move to 26" tire and that should help also.
I'll disagree, I run nitrous.
Based upon the original post talking about 28" tires.
It is too much tire, because there is no way he is even close to red line at the 1/4 mark with that set up. Go to a smaller tire, get a better 60' and stay in power band longer = better track times.
Based upon the original post talking about 28" tires.
OK I'll ask in this thread.
Here's the car
95Z t-tops stock motor w/longtubes, 3" Flowmaster cat-back, subrame connectors,double adjustable lower control arms, aftermarket torque arm (front mount moved off the trans to the rear trans mount brace and driveshaft loop) 4.10 gears, 28" MT ET Streets, stock 4L60E with Vigilante 3200 converter. Weight was 3390 before I took out the TC,Cruise, ABS controls, and put on a VFN pin-on glass hood. I did put 28# injectors in because the duty cycle on the 24's were maxed out WOT
Best ET is a 13.12, so where would you start? I'm thinking a TH350 with 3500-4000 converter
Here's the car
95Z t-tops stock motor w/longtubes, 3" Flowmaster cat-back, subrame connectors,double adjustable lower control arms, aftermarket torque arm (front mount moved off the trans to the rear trans mount brace and driveshaft loop) 4.10 gears, 28" MT ET Streets, stock 4L60E with Vigilante 3200 converter. Weight was 3390 before I took out the TC,Cruise, ABS controls, and put on a VFN pin-on glass hood. I did put 28# injectors in because the duty cycle on the 24's were maxed out WOT
Best ET is a 13.12, so where would you start? I'm thinking a TH350 with 3500-4000 converter
Buddy of mine, 95 Z28, A4 w/ Yank 4000 stall(was a M6), full bolt ons and cam only, ran a:
12.23 @ 111 on a 1.69 60ft. With a DA of 1100.
Hasn't really run the quarter again since that run but he's cutting consistant 1.5x's on his new MTs.
BTW, this is a light diet car(!rear seat, !AC, !sway bar) and his suspension is BONE *** STOCK. Stock everything. Seriously the car just rolls.
12.23 @ 111 on a 1.69 60ft. With a DA of 1100.
Hasn't really run the quarter again since that run but he's cutting consistant 1.5x's on his new MTs.
BTW, this is a light diet car(!rear seat, !AC, !sway bar) and his suspension is BONE *** STOCK. Stock everything. Seriously the car just rolls.
Buddy of mine, 95 Z28, A4 w/ Yank 4000 stall(was a M6), full bolt ons and cam only, ran a:
12.23 @ 111 on a 1.69 60ft. With a DA of 1100.
Hasn't really run the quarter again since that run but he's cutting consistant 1.5x's on his new MTs.
BTW, this is a light diet car(!rear seat, !AC, !sway bar) and his suspension is BONE *** STOCK. Stock everything. Seriously the car just rolls.
12.23 @ 111 on a 1.69 60ft. With a DA of 1100.
Hasn't really run the quarter again since that run but he's cutting consistant 1.5x's on his new MTs.
BTW, this is a light diet car(!rear seat, !AC, !sway bar) and his suspension is BONE *** STOCK. Stock everything. Seriously the car just rolls.