LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Any reason why I cant use stainless water pump bolts?

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Old 10-06-2009, 04:16 PM
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Default Any reason why I cant use stainless water pump bolts?

Having to replace that @#$%ing water pump drive seal and I have noticed some normal corrosion on the bolts.

Any particular reason why I cant use stainless water pumps bolt when putting the pump back on? Any dis-similar meat issue that might cause a problem?
Old 10-06-2009, 06:05 PM
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The joys of using SS (as you probably already know) is that it resists corrosion, therfore, as a more "inert" type of material (i.e. - the outer valience shell is filled with electrons - so it acts as a closed system), the movement of electrons to or from it is greatly reduced (relative to normal CR Steel, or Al, or Fe); so, none of the normal corrosion or galvinic (forgive my spelling!) / battery type issues when contacting Al or Fe.

Short Answer: Do it!
Old 10-06-2009, 06:09 PM
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Hey:

I used long stainless Exhaust studs with copper eaze sealant, stainless washers, and nyloc nuts, I used to take it off more than I do now that I have an EWP. but no leaks ever and real easy to take on and off the pump housing. I have this setup on 4 cars so its not just a 1 shot deal.

Dub

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Old 10-06-2009, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by great421
The joys of using SS (as you probably already know) is that it resists corrosion, therfore, as a more "inert" type of material (i.e. - the outer valience shell is filled with electrons - so it acts as a closed system), the movement of electrons to or from it is greatly reduced (relative to normal CR Steel, or Al, or Fe); so, none of the normal corrosion or galvinic (forgive my spelling!) / battery type issues when contacting Al or Fe.

Short Answer: Do it!
Ah,a fellow engineer.
Old 10-06-2009, 07:37 PM
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The main problem though is that SS bolts expands and contracts at different rates than the iron block. In extreme heat it is more likely to back out.

-Ben



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