abs delete
abs delete what is the easiest cheapest way to delete the abs I just need to get the abs module piece O crap out of my way for my homemade intake Its broken anyway so I figure just rip it out 
94 camaro Z28 non trac control
94 camaro Z28 non trac control
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 61
From: Little Rock, AR
just get a proportioning valve from a third gen for the rear breaks, and then a "T" for the front lines. Replace the line going from manifold to proportioning valve and then the one from the manifold to the "T". Cut and reflange the line going to the rear and put in a union and run a line up the the proportioning valve where you would like for the valve to be placed. Cut the two front brake lines to where you want the "T" to be placed. Here is a pic of mine (ordered online with a line lock but it will give you a idea (sorry for the dirty engine bay. It is covered in dust, oil, and brake fluid):
Also i made all my lines myself: bent them cut them and flanged them so it isnt that hard at all. This was my first attempt at this.
Also i made all my lines myself: bent them cut them and flanged them so it isnt that hard at all. This was my first attempt at this.
Last edited by litch2004; Oct 13, 2009 at 08:07 AM.
I have the exact same setup as litch2004 components in the same location and everything only difference would be my engine bay is silver. It works pefrect no problems what so ever.
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Verdad Gallardo the arrow is pointing twords the rear line?
ware is the line for the fronts what goes in the circle?
are there any other hidden gadgets?
can you use any 3rd gen valve or does it have to be one for 4 wheel disk?I looked and can only located ones for rear drum
ware is the line for the fronts what goes in the circle?
are there any other hidden gadgets?
can you use any 3rd gen valve or does it have to be one for 4 wheel disk?I looked and can only located ones for rear drum
Yup it's a 3rd Gen Block..came from an '89 Model, read Drum Car.
I added a bigger line coming from the Master Cyl, and I had to re-flare a couple of them to get it to work. I've had no issues with it, and it stops on a dime.
Here ya go..
You can see it here in the Engine bay..barely notice it if you don't know what you are looking for.
I added a bigger line coming from the Master Cyl, and I had to re-flare a couple of them to get it to work. I've had no issues with it, and it stops on a dime.
Here ya go..
You can see it here in the Engine bay..barely notice it if you don't know what you are looking for.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 749
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, WA
I went with the SJM Manufacturing kit. It's definitely not the cheapest way but its a very nice kit that comes with everything you need + a line lock. I for some reason had trouble with the included tool but others seem to do ok with it.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 326
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TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 749
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, WA
Yeah the prop valve works by restricting flow to the rear. The idea is that with the natural bias you would get by simply having lines there and no valve or anything you would be very likely to lock the rear brakes up. The prop valve allows you to take some pressure off the back and redirect it to the front, thus keeping the rear tires from locking up on their own and allowing the tail to come around.
Last edited by nighthawk15; Oct 17, 2009 at 05:22 AM.
yea i knew it allows you to adjust how much pressure goes to the front vs. the rear. didn't know it worked just by blocking off the rear though.
just to make it clear. really all you'd need is a univeral prop. valve and run the rear line from the master, to the prop valve, to the rear factory T or whatever is there. then run the front line to a T and then off to the front hose? this is the same for lt1 and ls1 cars, right?
just to make it clear. really all you'd need is a univeral prop. valve and run the rear line from the master, to the prop valve, to the rear factory T or whatever is there. then run the front line to a T and then off to the front hose? this is the same for lt1 and ls1 cars, right?
yea i knew it allows you to adjust how much pressure goes to the front vs. the rear. didn't know it worked just by blocking off the rear though.
just to make it clear. really all you'd need is a univeral prop. valve and run the rear line from the master, to the prop valve, to the rear factory T or whatever is there. then run the front line to a T and then off to the front hose? this is the same for lt1 and ls1 cars, right?
just to make it clear. really all you'd need is a univeral prop. valve and run the rear line from the master, to the prop valve, to the rear factory T or whatever is there. then run the front line to a T and then off to the front hose? this is the same for lt1 and ls1 cars, right?
