about to replace blown head gasket need help
10-16-2009, 05:10 PM
#22
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Not to confuse anyone, I do believe the correct term is magnaflux. It will clean the heads very well, and for a few extra dollars is well worth it. If you are putting headers on, I would buy some arp studs, or some better bolts....otherwise they will loosen up and you will have to check them often.
well wtf is hydroflux then? time for google lmao. thanks for the clarification and making me look like a dumbass lol
10-16-2009, 05:13 PM
#23
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wow HydroFlux is an oxyhydrogen generator that operates by converting distilled water into a oxy/hydro fuel gas.
so ill just
and
myself from giving advice ever again.
so ill just
and
myself from giving advice ever again.
10-16-2009, 10:29 PM
#27
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so how do you secure the exhaust to your heads? do they just hold themselves in there? well considering ive been throught about 9 motors. a 3 due to a shitty build. 2 due to being stock. another was my first LT1 i compeltey tore done to understand what was going on and all that. had to pull the head 4 times inside the cars multicars. and a few on other peoples cars cause of H/C swaps. and a few cause people blew the headgasket. ok im sorry i might not be exactly 30 but you get the idea. ive done it a few times. and i had everything from the bolts breaking in the block, header bolts breaking in the head, down to stripping the head off a bolt on the exhaust trying to get it off
If youve had that much trouble building a motor, you should refrain from giving advice... SERIOUSLY
10-16-2009, 10:34 PM
#28
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holy ****!!! i have built 1 LT1 by myself. the other ones were from another guy that kept with well ill do this and it should be ok. so yea thast were the mistake of going with that guy the first time because i would still have my car if i wouldve waited till i had more money to do it the first time
10-17-2009, 03:24 AM
#29
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don't feel like a dumbass, everybody has something to learn...technical words mean nothing when you have no idea what they do. For one, I only helped put a olds 307 together...checking rod clearances, putting pistons in, so there is alot to learn. I think though if my lt1 blows up, it will be a ls3, t56 with a s60 in the future. There is no way you can build the lt1 to the n/a level of the ls motor without throwing on a set of sb2.2 heads...good luck with the head gaskets sorry for hijacking your thread.
10-17-2009, 09:18 AM
#30
don't feel like a dumbass, everybody has something to learn...technical words mean nothing when you have no idea what they do. For one, I only helped put a olds 307 together...checking rod clearances, putting pistons in, so there is alot to learn. I think though if my lt1 blows up, it will be a ls3, t56 with a s60 in the future. There is no way you can build the lt1 to the n/a level of the ls motor without throwing on a set of sb2.2 heads...good luck with the head gaskets sorry for hijacking your thread.
11-09-2009, 10:34 PM
#31
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thanks for all the info guys and sorry to bring this from the dead. I have spent alot of time trying to unbolt the damn manifolds from the factory y pipe . I hurt my back pretty good by doing so jaja. well last saturday I went to work and let my father give it a try. I told him to not remove the heads and all the valvetrain parts but to my surprise when I came back home he had everything out and all mix up inside a box. I've allready sent the heads to the machine shop to check for cracks and things and i'm trowing in some longtube headers.
but know I don't know what to do about the factory rockers and pushrods. I mean everybody put the rods on a perforated cardboard box bur all I got here is a big mess .
keep in mind this is my first engine tear down
help please
but know I don't know what to do about the factory rockers and pushrods. I mean everybody put the rods on a perforated cardboard box bur all I got here is a big mess .
keep in mind this is my first engine tear down
help please
Last edited by ikaros23; 11-09-2009 at 10:42 PM.
11-10-2009, 11:38 AM
#33
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While your heads are off, why not invest in some chromeoly pushrods and some 1.6 full roller rockers? (if you can spare the cash). And get a fresh valve job for your freshened up heads.
Make sure you clean up the block deck well. I used a brass big round wirebrush I put on a drill and cleaned it all off. Make sure to clean around the dowel pins. I then cleaned it with laquer thinner just before just installing the heads, ensured they were clean and ready for the new gasket.
I used carb cleaner and cleaned up the pistons (did this at TDC for each piston), vacuumed it all out and then scrubbed them with laquer thinner. I tried to make the block as clean as possible.
I used a spiral wirebrush thin enough to go into the bolt holes, attached it to the dremel and cleaned the threads up well. Then sprayed brake cleaner into the holes and got all the crap out of them (please be careful, it will flow out at high pressure and will blow into your eye, and it stings).
I also spray painted the gaskets before installing them (don't know if guys on here still do this, there are also gasket sprays but they are not available in my country), and put them on the block wet, and put the heads right on one at a time, lubed up the ARP bolts and washers,tightened them down with a 1/4" drive ratchet in sequence to get the bolts threaded in well flush, and then torqued them in 3 passes. Go over them once again with the final torque.
For the small bolts, I put a generous bead of RTV under the heads of the bolts and the washers to seal them. I made sure it didn't get near the shank of the bolt, and of course I lubed the threads as well for correct torque. I got it from the Toyota dealership, and its the highest grade you will get on the market, and at 25$ for a tube, it better be. But you can get ARP thread sealent, its what I would have used if I could get a hold of it.
How about some steel braided lines to replace the steam tubes at the back of the heads?
Make sure you clean up the block deck well. I used a brass big round wirebrush I put on a drill and cleaned it all off. Make sure to clean around the dowel pins. I then cleaned it with laquer thinner just before just installing the heads, ensured they were clean and ready for the new gasket.
I used carb cleaner and cleaned up the pistons (did this at TDC for each piston), vacuumed it all out and then scrubbed them with laquer thinner. I tried to make the block as clean as possible.
I used a spiral wirebrush thin enough to go into the bolt holes, attached it to the dremel and cleaned the threads up well. Then sprayed brake cleaner into the holes and got all the crap out of them (please be careful, it will flow out at high pressure and will blow into your eye, and it stings).
I also spray painted the gaskets before installing them (don't know if guys on here still do this, there are also gasket sprays but they are not available in my country), and put them on the block wet, and put the heads right on one at a time, lubed up the ARP bolts and washers,tightened them down with a 1/4" drive ratchet in sequence to get the bolts threaded in well flush, and then torqued them in 3 passes. Go over them once again with the final torque.
For the small bolts, I put a generous bead of RTV under the heads of the bolts and the washers to seal them. I made sure it didn't get near the shank of the bolt, and of course I lubed the threads as well for correct torque. I got it from the Toyota dealership, and its the highest grade you will get on the market, and at 25$ for a tube, it better be. But you can get ARP thread sealent, its what I would have used if I could get a hold of it.
How about some steel braided lines to replace the steam tubes at the back of the heads?
