$$100 dollars if you fix it....
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I hooked up the cable tonight and used Tunercats. It shows so many codes it's ridiculous. Would anybody care to look at the file I saved and try to do some figuring? I've never used a tuner before. But I know that having it throw like 30 different codes is not a good thing IMO.
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I hooked up the cable tonight and used Tunercats. It shows so many codes it's ridiculous. Would anybody care to look at the file I saved and try to do some figuring? I've never used a tuner before. But I know that having it throw like 30 different codes is not a good thing IMO.
How do you get codes in Tunercat? I use Datamaster to monitor what's happening and Tunercat to make changes to the tune.
#63
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My car had a weird power loss problem, which long after the matter we found out was a timing issue, not sure why, but the car was not running the timing I was commanding and was showing in datamaster. I decided to part it out vs cranking timing in it and chancing hurting everything. I'll do my best to help here though.
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I hooked up the cable tonight and used Tunercats. It shows so many codes it's ridiculous. Would anybody care to look at the file I saved and try to do some figuring? I've never used a tuner before. But I know that having it throw like 30 different codes is not a good thing IMO.
Few questions that I want to get answers to before I go too in depth into this...
Are you running the alternator from the new motor or old one?
What injectors are you running?
Am I reading correctly, you kept your 94 harness in the car, never removed it?
Have you verified it is a 95 motor?
Have you used a thermal sensing gun to check the temps on each primary to verify all cylinders are firing? (I'd bet not all of them are firing)
Is the car misfiring at all? (below 10.3 or so afr at idle, it will misfire)
What rpm is it trying to idle at?
Does it get any better when it hits closed loop?
Have you verified the afr via a wideband?
Did you get to hear the car(rx7) startup dead cold(open loop)?
Do you have the wiring harness that was on the rx7?
Did your car run perfectly fine and no lights on the dash before the motor swap?
If you put in your 94 pcm, do you get the same lights on the dash?
Have you pulled the plugs and made sure each one is firing?
If you pulled them, do they all look the same or is one "wet" ?
Did you do anything, ANYTHING, else when you did the motor swap?(including removing interior, any other wiring, etc)
Are you using your original ICM/COIL or the one that came with the motor?
What other sensors were swapped over if any?
What opti/opti harness is on the car?
Does anything else not work in the car now? (power locks, hatch release, windows, radio, keyless entry, anything)
Here is all the grounds on the car...
Text Description of Ground Locations
G100 (L32) Bolted to Belt Tension Bracket Bolt, lower RH front of Engine (1 ring, 1 wire)
G100 (LT1) Bolted to RH side of Engine Block, same bolt used for A/C Compressor if equipped (1 ring, 1 wire)
G101 Top of RH Shock Tower (3 rings, 5 wires)
G102 Front of LH cylinder head (3 rings, 3 wires and braided strap)
G102 (LT1) Front of LH cylinder head (3 rings, 3 wires and braided strap)
G102 (LT1) LH front of Engine Block, just below head (4 rings, 3 wires and braided strap)
G103 (LT1) RH side of Engine Block, just above Starter (1 ring, 1 wire)
G103 RH side of Engine Block. just above Starter (1 ring. 1 wire)
G104 2 studs, 2 rings on each, interchangeable. Top RH side of Engine, 1 stud in head, 1 stud in Intake Manifold
G104 (L32) 2 studs, 2 rings on each, interchangeable. Top RH side of Engine, 1 stud in head, 1 stud is Intake Manifold
G105 Near top RH side of radiator, in top of T-Bar
G106 Near top LH side of radiator, in top of T-Bar
G108 (L32) Braided ground strap, bolted to forward left side of Engine Block
G109 Bolted to left front frame rail (2 rings,1 wire and braided strap)
G1O4 (L32) 2 studs, 2 rings on each, interchangeable. Top RH side of Engine, 1 stud in head, 1 stud in Intake Manifold
G1O6 Near top LH side of radiator, in top of T-Bar P100 Left side in dash panel, Engine to Passenger Compartment
G200 Near base of LH "A" pillar, bolted to I/P Mounting Stud behind kick panel (2 rings, 2 wires)
G201 Near base of RH "A" pillar, bolted to I/P Mounting Stud behind kick panel (1 ring, 1 wire)
G2OO Near base of LH "A" pillar, bolted to I/P Mounting Stud behind lack panel (2 rings, 2 wires)
G305 Bolted to Floor Pan Bar #2, under Driver's Seat (2 rings, 2 wires, with AC3/AQ9), (1 ring, 1 wire without AC3/AQ9)
G310 Bolted to roof, left of Dome Lamp (1 ring, 1 wire)
G320 Bolted to body frame above RH rear wheelhouse
G400 Bolted to Battery Release Bracket in Rear Compartment (2 rings, 3 wires Coupe) or (2 rings. 2 wires Convertible)
Generator RH front of Engine
G100 (L32) Bolted to Belt Tension Bracket Bolt, lower RH front of Engine (1 ring, 1 wire)
G100 (LT1) Bolted to RH side of Engine Block, same bolt used for A/C Compressor if equipped (1 ring, 1 wire)
G101 Top of RH Shock Tower (3 rings, 5 wires)
G102 Front of LH cylinder head (3 rings, 3 wires and braided strap)
G102 (LT1) Front of LH cylinder head (3 rings, 3 wires and braided strap)
G102 (LT1) LH front of Engine Block, just below head (4 rings, 3 wires and braided strap)
G103 (LT1) RH side of Engine Block, just above Starter (1 ring, 1 wire)
G103 RH side of Engine Block. just above Starter (1 ring. 1 wire)
G104 2 studs, 2 rings on each, interchangeable. Top RH side of Engine, 1 stud in head, 1 stud in Intake Manifold
G104 (L32) 2 studs, 2 rings on each, interchangeable. Top RH side of Engine, 1 stud in head, 1 stud is Intake Manifold
G105 Near top RH side of radiator, in top of T-Bar
G106 Near top LH side of radiator, in top of T-Bar
G108 (L32) Braided ground strap, bolted to forward left side of Engine Block
G109 Bolted to left front frame rail (2 rings,1 wire and braided strap)
G1O4 (L32) 2 studs, 2 rings on each, interchangeable. Top RH side of Engine, 1 stud in head, 1 stud in Intake Manifold
G1O6 Near top LH side of radiator, in top of T-Bar P100 Left side in dash panel, Engine to Passenger Compartment
G200 Near base of LH "A" pillar, bolted to I/P Mounting Stud behind kick panel (2 rings, 2 wires)
G201 Near base of RH "A" pillar, bolted to I/P Mounting Stud behind kick panel (1 ring, 1 wire)
G2OO Near base of LH "A" pillar, bolted to I/P Mounting Stud behind lack panel (2 rings, 2 wires)
G305 Bolted to Floor Pan Bar #2, under Driver's Seat (2 rings, 2 wires, with AC3/AQ9), (1 ring, 1 wire without AC3/AQ9)
G310 Bolted to roof, left of Dome Lamp (1 ring, 1 wire)
G320 Bolted to body frame above RH rear wheelhouse
G400 Bolted to Battery Release Bracket in Rear Compartment (2 rings, 3 wires Coupe) or (2 rings. 2 wires Convertible)
Generator RH front of Engine
Let me know from this and we can go from there.
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One last thing, I've seen something simliar to this happen on a car about 5 years ago when in the fuse box, the pcm main fuse was in the "slot" but the receiving slot connector was too loose, thus causing the fuse to fit in loosely and it caused a ton of weird freak problems.(I heard James Montigny had a similiar problem with the slot being too loose...and not on his car) It took a lot of time for that one to get figured out, once the connector got bent back closed, the fuse was secure and worked fine. Funny that happened during a motor swap, and the fuse box was never even touched, just a freak thing.
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#64
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To Skinnies: Wow. When I get off work I will have some work to do. I definitely need the datamaster program. I thought the little 'x' by all of the faults on Tunercats when I read my PCM indicated a fault. But I'm glad that's not the case. I will report back later today.
To answer your questions:
Im running his alternator from the 95 motor
Im running 30/lb injectors
I still am using the 94 harness and I just disconnected it to get old motor out
I havent used a heat gun but we have some at work. I will borrow one.
I dont think it's misfiring but I don't know its AFR
It's trying to idle at 1200 or so RPMs
I dont think it ever gets to hit closed loop. Im afraid to run it that long
I dont have wideband
I heard the motor in the rx7 and it sounded fine. And it didnt run rich
I have his harness from the rx7 but it's a bit butchered
My car never had the lights come on prior to swap
The 94 computer causes the same lights and same problems.
I haven't verfied if every plug is firing
I havent pulled on but I would bet money they are wet from too much fuel
I didn't mess with any of the interior wiring. Only in the engine harness
Im using the ICM and coil that was on the 95 motor
No other sensors had to be swapped over.
The Delco stock Opti is on the car with stock harness
My fans for the AC or heat do not work at all. No temperature gauge but other than that not that I know of
I will check the fuse panel. But the 10 amp fuse is very tight going in and it has never felt loose.
Thanks a lot for a list of all of the grounds on the car. I will start combing over it when I get home after work.
To answer your questions:
Im running his alternator from the 95 motor
Im running 30/lb injectors
I still am using the 94 harness and I just disconnected it to get old motor out
I havent used a heat gun but we have some at work. I will borrow one.
I dont think it's misfiring but I don't know its AFR
It's trying to idle at 1200 or so RPMs
I dont think it ever gets to hit closed loop. Im afraid to run it that long
I dont have wideband
I heard the motor in the rx7 and it sounded fine. And it didnt run rich
I have his harness from the rx7 but it's a bit butchered
My car never had the lights come on prior to swap
The 94 computer causes the same lights and same problems.
I haven't verfied if every plug is firing
I havent pulled on but I would bet money they are wet from too much fuel
I didn't mess with any of the interior wiring. Only in the engine harness
Im using the ICM and coil that was on the 95 motor
No other sensors had to be swapped over.
The Delco stock Opti is on the car with stock harness
My fans for the AC or heat do not work at all. No temperature gauge but other than that not that I know of
I will check the fuse panel. But the 10 amp fuse is very tight going in and it has never felt loose.
Thanks a lot for a list of all of the grounds on the car. I will start combing over it when I get home after work.
#65
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First off, pull all the plugs and change them. I recommend some ngk tr6(4177 I believe is the other part number for the guy at the parts store who can't find tr6 in his computer instead of going to the shelf and looking at the box)
Second, don't run it on the stock pcm unless you put the stock injectors back in it!!!!
Third, when you say you just disconnected the harness to get the motor out, that means you didn't disconnect it from the pcm/under dash right?(just making sure)
Fourth, since it is easy, try swapping alternators, doubt it fixes the problem, but at least rule that out and it's a 10 minute swap
What does it do when you rev it up from idle? Stumble or smooth?(sucks I'm not there in person, I've done this enough I can tell the difference in a lean stumble vs a rich stumble by listening to it)
Hate to ask an obvious question, but have you tried running it in speed density(just unplug the maf). I've seen bad maf wiring/bad maf's do some crazy stuff to the tune.
Now you mention the coolant temp sensor doesn't work, it should be a ground on one side so check continuity to make sure it has ground(black wire I believe). I'll look at the wiring schematics later this evening when I get more time to see if I can see anything obvious.
You might actually be dealing with multiple problems also. The coolant temp sensor TO THE GAUGES shouldn't affect the pcm/tune, but I'm really wondering how many of your other sensors don't have a ground or 5v reference. A datalog will help a lot! Once we see in the datalog what the sensors are doing(or not doing) then we can get a much better idea where to start chasing the problem.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
While you may be frustrated, their is still A LOT we can do, not even close to th end of the road on this one.
Second, don't run it on the stock pcm unless you put the stock injectors back in it!!!!
Third, when you say you just disconnected the harness to get the motor out, that means you didn't disconnect it from the pcm/under dash right?(just making sure)
Fourth, since it is easy, try swapping alternators, doubt it fixes the problem, but at least rule that out and it's a 10 minute swap
What does it do when you rev it up from idle? Stumble or smooth?(sucks I'm not there in person, I've done this enough I can tell the difference in a lean stumble vs a rich stumble by listening to it)
Hate to ask an obvious question, but have you tried running it in speed density(just unplug the maf). I've seen bad maf wiring/bad maf's do some crazy stuff to the tune.
Now you mention the coolant temp sensor doesn't work, it should be a ground on one side so check continuity to make sure it has ground(black wire I believe). I'll look at the wiring schematics later this evening when I get more time to see if I can see anything obvious.
You might actually be dealing with multiple problems also. The coolant temp sensor TO THE GAUGES shouldn't affect the pcm/tune, but I'm really wondering how many of your other sensors don't have a ground or 5v reference. A datalog will help a lot! Once we see in the datalog what the sensors are doing(or not doing) then we can get a much better idea where to start chasing the problem.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
While you may be frustrated, their is still A LOT we can do, not even close to th end of the road on this one.
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#66
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Alright Im home from work now. I'm gonna download datamaster and then Im going outside to swap the alternator. Do you think i have to swap the plugs just yet or should we wait on that one until I pull the codes and confirm the alternator swap?
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I need to download datamaster. But the site isn't letting me download it because they are fixing problems related to Windows 7. I just put these plugs in. I'll pull em tho. i just want to get a scan on this thing and post what it's saying so you have something to look at while I'm wrenching. That way you don't have to wait forever and a day ya know? By the way I really appreciate you giving me all this help. Thanks to all the other guys before as well. It seems like you have a lot of experience dealing with these cars. Ok on to find a scan program to pull some codes.
#69
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Sounds like Skinnies car, he can help. You owe me 100
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Would anybody be able to email me Datamaster? I'm not sure I like Freescan. Although it gave me three codes. 26,27 and 22. CCP electrical fault, tps voltage low, and egr electrical fault. I don't have the CCP hooked up and the egr as well. TPS is definitely hooked up.
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LOL, hopefully we can fix his problem.
I have had a lot of lt1 cars and worked on a lot of other people's cars over the years. Plus I get paid daily to troubleshoot robotics when it quits working, so with my lt1 knowledge and troubleshooting skills I am usually good at finding the problem.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Check to make sure you are getting a 5v reference(key on) at the tps and a have a good ground at the connector.
Even without the tps the car will run, it will idle higher, and when you rev the car, the rpms will come back down a lot slower below 2000rpms.
I have had a lot of lt1 cars and worked on a lot of other people's cars over the years. Plus I get paid daily to troubleshoot robotics when it quits working, so with my lt1 knowledge and troubleshooting skills I am usually good at finding the problem.
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Check to make sure you are getting a 5v reference(key on) at the tps and a have a good ground at the connector.
Even without the tps the car will run, it will idle higher, and when you rev the car, the rpms will come back down a lot slower below 2000rpms.