Rick804

iTrader: (3)

I hooked up the cable tonight and used Tunercats. It shows so many codes it's ridiculous. Would anybody care to look at the file I saved and try to do some figuring? I've never used a tuner before. But I know that having it throw like 30 different codes is not a good thing IMO.

Low N Slow

iTrader: (4)

How do you get codes in Tunercat? I use Datamaster to monitor what's happening and Tunercat to make changes to the tune.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

I just now saw this thread.

My car had a weird power loss problem, which long after the matter we found out was a timing issue, not sure why, but the car was not running the timing I was commanding and was showing in datamaster. I decided to part it out vs cranking timing in it and chancing hurting everything. I'll do my best to help here though.

I've seen this exact thing happen on a jeep cherokee, I told the guy to replace the alternator, but he didn't listen. Then took it to a shop and spent $1200 on a new pcm/cps/wiring/etc, all for it to not work, then as soon as he put on a new alternator it fixed the problem. It is amazing what low voltage will cause.

Download datamaster or get a copy of it then send me a PM and I'll get you my email address to send the file to so I can look it over.

Few questions that I want to get answers to before I go too in depth into this...

Are you running the alternator from the new motor or old one?
What injectors are you running?
Am I reading correctly, you kept your 94 harness in the car, never removed it?
Have you verified it is a 95 motor?
Have you used a thermal sensing gun to check the temps on each primary to verify all cylinders are firing? (I'd bet not all of them are firing)
Is the car misfiring at all? (below 10.3 or so afr at idle, it will misfire)
What rpm is it trying to idle at?
Does it get any better when it hits closed loop?
Have you verified the afr via a wideband?
Did you get to hear the car(rx7) startup dead cold(open loop)?
Do you have the wiring harness that was on the rx7?
Did your car run perfectly fine and no lights on the dash before the motor swap?
If you put in your 94 pcm, do you get the same lights on the dash?
Have you pulled the plugs and made sure each one is firing?
If you pulled them, do they all look the same or is one "wet" ?
Did you do anything, ANYTHING, else when you did the motor swap?(including removing interior, any other wiring, etc)
Are you using your original ICM/COIL or the one that came with the motor?
What other sensors were swapped over if any?
What opti/opti harness is on the car?
Does anything else not work in the car now? (power locks, hatch release, windows, radio, keyless entry, anything)

Here is all the grounds on the car...
I'd really make sure grounds g200 and g201 are good.

Let me know from this and we can go from there. Sorry for all the questions, just want a straight answer so not troubleshooting in the dark.

One last thing, I've seen something simliar to this happen on a car about 5 years ago when in the fuse box, the pcm main fuse was in the "slot" but the receiving slot connector was too loose, thus causing the fuse to fit in loosely and it caused a ton of weird freak problems.(I heard James Montigny had a similiar problem with the slot being too loose...and not on his car) It took a lot of time for that one to get figured out, once the connector got bent back closed, the fuse was secure and worked fine. Funny that happened during a motor swap, and the fuse box was never even touched, just a freak thing.

Rick804

iTrader: (3)

To Skinnies: Wow. When I get off work I will have some work to do. I definitely need the datamaster program. I thought the little 'x' by all of the faults on Tunercats when I read my PCM indicated a fault. But I'm glad that's not the case. I will report back later today.

To answer your questions:
Im running his alternator from the 95 motor
Im running 30/lb injectors
I still am using the 94 harness and I just disconnected it to get old motor out
I havent used a heat gun but we have some at work. I will borrow one.
I dont think it's misfiring but I don't know its AFR
It's trying to idle at 1200 or so RPMs
I dont think it ever gets to hit closed loop. Im afraid to run it that long
I dont have wideband
I heard the motor in the rx7 and it sounded fine. And it didnt run rich
I have his harness from the rx7 but it's a bit butchered
My car never had the lights come on prior to swap
The 94 computer causes the same lights and same problems.
I haven't verfied if every plug is firing
I havent pulled on but I would bet money they are wet from too much fuel
I didn't mess with any of the interior wiring. Only in the engine harness
Im using the ICM and coil that was on the 95 motor
No other sensors had to be swapped over.
The Delco stock Opti is on the car with stock harness
My fans for the AC or heat do not work at all. No temperature gauge but other than that not that I know of

I will check the fuse panel. But the 10 amp fuse is very tight going in and it has never felt loose.

Thanks a lot for a list of all of the grounds on the car. I will start combing over it when I get home after work.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

First off, pull all the plugs and change them. I recommend some ngk tr6(4177 I believe is the other part number for the guy at the parts store who can't find tr6 in his computer instead of going to the shelf and looking at the box)
Second, don't run it on the stock pcm unless you put the stock injectors back in it!!!!
Third, when you say you just disconnected the harness to get the motor out, that means you didn't disconnect it from the pcm/under dash right?(just making sure)
Fourth, since it is easy, try swapping alternators, doubt it fixes the problem, but at least rule that out and it's a 10 minute swap


What does it do when you rev it up from idle? Stumble or smooth?(sucks I'm not there in person, I've done this enough I can tell the difference in a lean stumble vs a rich stumble by listening to it)

Hate to ask an obvious question, but have you tried running it in speed density(just unplug the maf). I've seen bad maf wiring/bad maf's do some crazy stuff to the tune.

Now you mention the coolant temp sensor doesn't work, it should be a ground on one side so check continuity to make sure it has ground(black wire I believe). I'll look at the wiring schematics later this evening when I get more time to see if I can see anything obvious.

You might actually be dealing with multiple problems also. The coolant temp sensor TO THE GAUGES shouldn't affect the pcm/tune, but I'm really wondering how many of your other sensors don't have a ground or 5v reference. A datalog will help a lot! Once we see in the datalog what the sensors are doing(or not doing) then we can get a much better idea where to start chasing the problem.

While you may be frustrated, their is still A LOT we can do, not even close to th end of the road on this one.

Rick804

iTrader: (3)

Alright Im home from work now. I'm gonna download datamaster and then Im going outside to swap the alternator. Do you think i have to swap the plugs just yet or should we wait on that one until I pull the codes and confirm the alternator swap?

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Just pull the plugs first imo, most likely they are done for.

Rick804

iTrader: (3)

I need to download datamaster. But the site isn't letting me download it because they are fixing problems related to Windows 7. I just put these plugs in. I'll pull em tho. i just want to get a scan on this thing and post what it's saying so you have something to look at while I'm wrenching. That way you don't have to wait forever and a day ya know? By the way I really appreciate you giving me all this help. Thanks to all the other guys before as well. It seems like you have a lot of experience dealing with these cars. Ok on to find a scan program to pull some codes.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

LOL! I told you he could help. Paypal is fine!

Rick804

iTrader: (3)

Would anybody be able to email me Datamaster? I'm not sure I like Freescan. Although it gave me three codes. 26,27 and 22. CCP electrical fault, tps voltage low, and egr electrical fault. I don't have the CCP hooked up and the egr as well. TPS is definitely hooked up.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

LOL, hopefully we can fix his problem.

I have had a lot of lt1 cars and worked on a lot of other people's cars over the years. Plus I get paid daily to troubleshoot robotics when it quits working, so with my lt1 knowledge and troubleshooting skills I am usually good at finding the problem.

Check to make sure you are getting a 5v reference(key on) at the tps and a have a good ground at the connector.

Even without the tps the car will run, it will idle higher, and when you rev the car, the rpms will come back down a lot slower below 2000rpms.