I'm not kidding at all here. 100 dollars will be sent via paypal to the FIRST person to give me a good enough lead to get my car running right again.


Introduction: I own a 1994 Camaro Z28 M6 car. I pulled the original motor out of it a few months ago to build it for my AI H/C/I project. In the meantime I came across another Lt1 on craigslist. It was in a RX7. The motor is a 1995 motor. It came with the 1995 computer which was tuned by PCM4less. I got to hear this motor run in the RX7 and it sounded very very good. No idle problems, no sputtering, not running rich etc...

Mods to95 motor: GM847 Cam, custom TB, Upgraded springs and 1.6 rr.

So now that you know I have 94 car with a 95 motor and computer let's move on to the problems.

Problem(s): SES ON, ABS INOP ON, AIRBAG INOP ON, temp gauge not working at all(replaced sensor), Engine fans stay on constantly, Blower motor for A/C and heat does not function, car runs RICH. When i say rich I mean richer than anything I've ever seen. I have fuel in the brand new oil now. The car doesn't seem like it likes to idle. It seems like it is loading up. The car will run for a second before the SES light turns on. The others just stay on from the beginning.

I did this swap myself. It is VERY possible I forgot something or didn't hook it up correctly. But regardless of that I need some tips pointing me in which direction to look.

I have looked at every harness and every connection to make sure they are all hooked up properly. I have the PCM grounded right above the starter. The ground going to the ICM/Coil is also hooked up. The computer was tuned to have the emissions bullshit turned off.

Please ask any questions of me if you need more specifics. I feel I could add more but I'm so stressed out right now I could honestly part the car out and never look back. So I may have forgot to say something important which would give a better clue to my problem.


I do not have a scan tool. Keep that in mind. I may very well need one in order to get to the bottom of this. I don't know yet.

IN ORDER TO GET THE MONEY!!!
YOU MUST ANSWER IN THIS POSTING. NO PM's!!!! I will try all suggestions and I will respond back with what happened. If the car runs better I will pay the 100 dollars via PAYPAL immediately. No questions asked.

 

If someone wants to let me rent their scantool I would be willing to work out a deal with that. Let me know. That can be discussed in PMs. Thank you in advance!

 

Advice is always free. Hope this helps.

So you have the 95 motor and a matching PCM/tune installed in it (for that cam/injector combo)
It almost sounds like the PCM is corrupt or something disconnected and it's just running a limp tune
(which would be crazy rich with that cam and larger injectors)
Are both cars M6s? (running an A4 tune on M6 will cause you all kinds of odd issues)

Old harnesses tend to crack when they're handled for the first time in years (ask me how I know LOL)

The first place I'd start if all of those warnings are going off is grounds.
On the driver's side of the motor, you should see 2-3 black wires grounded to the coil stud.
Make sure that A) they're chean and B) that they're not broken somewhere.

Do you have access to a laptop?
And have you contacted PCMForless? I bet they can give you an idea of what is wrong.

 

fuel pressure? or check for broken/ bent wires going to/from dist. and check the throttle pos. sen.

 

How do I check the TPS? By the way. Forgive me for this. I will not be going out to work on the car anymore tonight. I already showered. These suggestions will be used tomorrow. I have all day to mess with the car..

Well I did try using my 94 computer and it basically did the exact same thing. It just ran a lil worse at idle prolly because it's not tuned for all the goodies...

 

I'm gonna investigate these grounds a lot. I feel like this could definitely be a grounding issue.

 

Not sure what the problem is...but I'll give you a whole lot more than $100 worth of advice. Stop starting the engine and running it till you figure it out...if you keep running it that rich, you will gas wash your cylinders and you will have to pull the motor, tear it down, rehone it and re-ring it.

Might be too late if you have 25-50 miles on it already like that.

.

 

I appreciate that. The car has been on jackstands and it will remain there until I get the problem fixed. I definitely don't want washdown. That would be a very very bad day haha.

 

James is right you need to check the computer and make sure its not corrupt. you also need to have it programmed for an M6 of get an M6 computer and have it tuned for your combo.

 

Sounds like Skinnies car, he can help. You owe me 100
https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=24604

 

LOL .. Universal response ... "Call Skinnies"
Actually, he'll probably know the answer too.

 

a corrupt comp isnt gonna cause all of his **** to happen ,he has no abs,airbag ,gauges and such .that bein said im guessin he has serous wirning issues as far as power and grounds go make sure the big black cable is grounded at the block and grounded well all the connectors are plugged in right "no bent pins and so on " all it takes is one bent pin to **** a lot of stuff up

 

I've got the PCM ground that goes right above the starter. Then there's another ground that runs to the starter that is also grounded to the passenger motor mount. I also have that braided strap on the passenger side that goes to my ICM/Coil ground. I don't know of any other grounds to speak of. I would really love to find a ground that I forgot and get this thing running.

 

check the pins and all the connectors ,make sure all the pins are there and not bent all fusdes are good etc etc

 

That's correct, there will be one or two wires in the knock sensor wire loom on the passenger side.
The big ground runs to the motor mount on the passenger side, the other wire is actually the positive feed for the starter
Braided strap on the driver's side and two or three (depends on year) wires from
the same point back around the back of the motor to the PCM.

 

have you made sure that both the head and water pump temp senders are plugged in? you said the gauge is not working. do you have 1 plug in the wrong sensor. the water pump plug can fit in the sender for the ecm. if you did that and the ecm isnt getting the signal it will not run for **** and rich as hell. ask me how i know lol.

 

am i the only one lookin at the big picture hear ,he has way to much goin on for it to be a comp problem only ,its in the main harrness or suttin

 

so you had a computer tuned for the 847 etc and you sent that out to have the emissions removed? quite possibly they changed the tune for the 847 back to stock.

i would check the grounds on the passenger fender area. if they are loose or don't have a proper ground, they will throw plenty of lights. i believe the stud comes up through the bottom and can get loose on that side but still tighten on the top so check that.

check your voltage too. if the cam is barely idling, the alternator will not put out enough to operate pretty much everything. if you have a drained down battery and little to no amps coming out of the alternator, none of the systems will operate and will throw the lights on saying they are disabled.

you may have pinched or broken wires in a variety of places too. how did you do the swap? was it completely assembled and installed or did you piece the top end into the car?

 

I did the swap by getting the motor in from the top. I just layed the harness over the passenger side fender so nothing would get pinched. Then after I had the motor and trans bolted in the car I started running the harness across the motor. I've checked voltage and the car is fine on that. It has to be a ground.

 

Did you check the coolant temp sensor on the water pump like I mentioned in your previous thread? That will cause it to run really rich if the sensor or the wire is bad. Wish ya lived closer so I could just go over and help you out.

IMHO, what it seems to me that you need the most is someone with a diagnostic cable and DataMaster. You can hook the cable up to the diagnostic port under the dash, plug it into the laptop via USB, and then turn on the data logging. Then turn the key to the "ON" position (don't crank it or start it) and see what codes are being thrown as well as what the PCM is seeing as your water temp. I bet that would give us the best information.