how to make my LS7 lifter a solid lifter for measuring pushrod length
11-02-2009, 09:11 PM
#1
how to make my LS7 lifter a solid lifter for measuring pushrod length As stated i am needing to make my lifter solid to measure my pushrod length. I am not knowledgeable in doing this and this is the last thing i need to order to get the car running. please help so i can get my car running.
11-02-2009, 09:23 PM
#2
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pull the little horseshoe or e clip out of the lifter, put a shim in the body to keep the lifter from collapsing, reinstall, drink lots of crane lake "Gew Urztraminer" and post up how it went
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11-03-2009, 01:03 PM
#8
losen the rockers, pull the PR's and let the lifters rise on their own. Mark the top of a valve with a marker pen. Lash that valve to "zero" and rotate engine by hand twice. remove rocker & PR and look at where witness mark is on valve stem. It should be dead center. Use PR check tool longer/shorter and do again until mark is dead center..order that length PR.
IMHO I have never shimed or otherwise a hydraulic lifter to make it "solid"....
IMHO I have never shimed or otherwise a hydraulic lifter to make it "solid"....
11-03-2009, 01:31 PM
#10
do you have to pull the valve spring off and replace it with a cheapo spring (just something from the hardware store) to use a measuring devise? they seem to flimsy to use with say a set of patriot golds
11-03-2009, 02:22 PM
#12
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I didn't make my ls7 lifters "solid" when I checked push rod length. I had all my lifters soaking in oil and would put a freshly pumped up lifter in every time I checked it.
11-03-2009, 03:36 PM
#14
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How about saving yourself all that aggravation of changing a spring, modifying a lifter, removing and re-installing the intake (if it's installed), etc.?
I never do any of that. It's a lot of unnecessary work with no real benefit. The only time I use a NON hydraulic lifter is when I degree a camshaft and even then I use the tool/dial indicator that mounts directly on the cam's lobe.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...th/index1.html
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
I never do any of that. It's a lot of unnecessary work with no real benefit. The only time I use a NON hydraulic lifter is when I degree a camshaft and even then I use the tool/dial indicator that mounts directly on the cam's lobe.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...th/index1.html
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
11-03-2009, 08:45 PM
#16
sounds simple enough. I still have my factory PR wish are still in good shape. So i will base the beginning and then use my PR measuring to from there. Thanks for all the advice. I cant wait to start it up any more. I have already pretty much missed out on all this season.
Where is a good place to order my pushrods from? I have been suggested Trickflow chromoly hardened pushrods. Any insight on thie?
Where is a good place to order my pushrods from? I have been suggested Trickflow chromoly hardened pushrods. Any insight on thie?
11-04-2009, 06:45 AM
#18
I have tried the soft test springs, pumping the lifters up etc. etc. etc. I have tried every way of skirting the the sold lifter. the internally check vales will bleed off even a little bit UNLESS there is significant pressure being applied to it by the functioning oil pump.
The CORRECT method is a solid lifter and it will yield the best and safest readings for measuring push rod length and valve sweep. No harm will come to a lifter buy taking it apart and turning it solid for testing. It easily reassembles and if one is scared to death of doing this this then they should consider just backing away from the tools.
The intake can be pulled in 15 minutes easy and put back on in less than 30. Just do it right and sleep well at night.
Flame suit now on.
The CORRECT method is a solid lifter and it will yield the best and safest readings for measuring push rod length and valve sweep. No harm will come to a lifter buy taking it apart and turning it solid for testing. It easily reassembles and if one is scared to death of doing this this then they should consider just backing away from the tools.
The intake can be pulled in 15 minutes easy and put back on in less than 30. Just do it right and sleep well at night.
Flame suit now on.
11-04-2009, 03:24 PM
#19
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It was impossible to push in the plungers on all, except two, of the LS7 lifters I purchased even after soaking in oil overnight. I went to three different dealerships and 90% of all the LS7 lifters were exactly the same. I did not make a solid lifter. I just installed the LS7's.
I checked pushrod length with a trickflow adjustable checker and the magic marker method. I also used a weaker spring I purchased at ACE hardware. I rotated the engine by hand twice to get a reading. I had to bring the length checker to a machine shop that had a digital caliper large enough to measure it. Most of the ones I found local only went up to 6". I later found a few cheap one's on amazon, not sure if they are any good.
I checked pushrod length with a trickflow adjustable checker and the magic marker method. I also used a weaker spring I purchased at ACE hardware. I rotated the engine by hand twice to get a reading. I had to bring the length checker to a machine shop that had a digital caliper large enough to measure it. Most of the ones I found local only went up to 6". I later found a few cheap one's on amazon, not sure if they are any good.
