LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Fresh rebuild, no start

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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 05:38 AM
  #21  
x Wild Bill x's Avatar
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I would say yes, as long as they are now not too loose, causing them not to open fully. I would pull plug #1 and turn the motor over by hand. Make sure the compression goes up on the compression stroke, but goes away on the exhaust stroke. If it doesn't, valves are probably too loose. Also, did you try and start it several times with the valves open? You may have fuel fouled the plugs, so check the actual plug for a good hot spark.

Good luck and let me know,
Bill
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 02:08 PM
  #22  
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How are you adjusting the valves? I do one at a time, as soon as the ex pr starts to move up I set the intake valve and as soon as the intake PR is all the way and starts to go down turn the crank 1/2-3/4 turn and set the EX valve. I set them at 1/4 turn past 0 lash with my promags and never had a prob. Trick is loosen them all and just do one at a time. That way its hard to get mixed up.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 03:34 PM
  #23  
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Yeah, loosen them all, then go one at a time. I'm not so much questioning as to whether or not I am setting the lash correctly as to whether or not the lifters are pumped up... I think they have bleed down when I had the lash wrong the first time. I need a way to get them to pump back up. If I find 0 lash and go more than 1/3 of a turn I can feel it starting to compress the valve spring. I'm pretty sure there should be a little more play in the plunger before they bottom out in the lifter. I could be wrong. I am just going to set them to zero and pre-load them 1/4 turn and start it up and get the rpms to 2k or so and see if they pressurize and then re-set the lash. I just want to make sure I have it right, first time was deff. a little to tight as it did not want to rev. really.

Thanks,
Bill
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 04:57 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by x Wild Bill x
Yeah, loosen them all, then go one at a time. I'm not so much questioning as to whether or not I am setting the lash correctly as to whether or not the lifters are pumped up... I think they have bleed down when I had the lash wrong the first time. I need a way to get them to pump back up. If I find 0 lash and go more than 1/3 of a turn I can feel it starting to compress the valve spring. I'm pretty sure there should be a little more play in the plunger before they bottom out in the lifter. I could be wrong. I am just going to set them to zero and pre-load them 1/4 turn and start it up and get the rpms to 2k or so and see if they pressurize and then re-set the lash. I just want to make sure I have it right, first time was deff. a little to tight as it did not want to rev. really.

Thanks,
Bill
When my lifters were pumped, you could not compress the spring with turning the nut, even after the dry cranking they had enough pressure inside them.

Glad we could help buddy. Have you installed any new parts to the car? If yes, then you need a tune to run it

Good luck.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by x Wild Bill x
I would say yes, as long as they are now not too loose, causing them not to open fully. I would pull plug #1 and turn the motor over by hand. Make sure the compression goes up on the compression stroke, but goes away on the exhaust stroke. If it doesn't, valves are probably too loose. Also, did you try and start it several times with the valves open? You may have fuel fouled the plugs, so check the actual plug for a good hot spark.

Good luck and let me know,
Bill
I'll check and let ya know...Thanks
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:40 AM
  #26  
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So, I got my car started, sounds soo nice to hear it again. One small problem though, it will not idle, period. I have to hold the gas just to keep it at 1K and there it stutters and stumbles a little bit. Rev it up to 2K and it will stay close, move up and down a little, but clear out and generally run okay. Try to rev it up and it will rev but not go much past 5K and not rev. quickly. I got plenty of oil coming out of the push rods and good oil pressure, so I re-adjusted the valves and that did not help. I think I may try it one more time, I dunno the first time I did it for my heads/cam install I got it prefect first try, go figure. Also after it dies it will be kinda hard to restart. Currently, I do not have my alternator hooked up so I can easily get to my valves, I have a battery charger on there but I am thinking it may not be giving it enough juice. This shouldn't be a problem if I only have the car running for 2 min max right? Tonight I am going to go through and check the MAF, IAC, MAP and anything else I can think of. Ohh and the TPS is right at .67, I think that's where you want it, but anyways right where it was when the motor came apart, so that is the same and it ran perfect before. Thanks for the help/ideas.

Bill
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:29 PM
  #27  
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Well, I figured out my problem, and man am I fortunate that I read several forums throughout the day and read somewhere something about the MAF wire. Someone said that it cannot be too close to a high voltage wire, IE coil wire, well my MAF wire was almost touching the coil wire... Well I moved it to about 1" away and wow, the car idles :-), problem solved! I am soo gassed and I think the reason that it would not rev up is because I don't have the alt. hooked up and it is dropping voltage. When I turned on the lights, it ran worse. Looks like I am out of the woods.

Thanks for the help everyone I really appreciate it. SS14PSI you ever figure out your problem?

Bill
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