From "cc 503 install help" to a full rebuild:)
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Houston, TX
From "cc 503 install help" to a full rebuild:) Im doing a comp cam 503 swap and i was wondering if these lifters from competition products would work. Im on a budget and im only replacing the necessary , all new seals and gaskets , cloyes dr t/c, new header gaskets, spark plugs and wires and a performa built 2000 stall, new ac delco opti and other stuff that im still ordering
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...?number=652394
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=98213
Plans changed all of the sudden and it al started with this block
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...?number=652394
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=98213
Plans changed all of the sudden and it al started with this block
Last edited by WARDOG; Nov 28, 2009 at 10:43 AM.
Im doing a comp cam 503 swap and i was wondering if these lifters from competition products would work. Im on a budget and im only replacing the necessary , all new seals and gaskets , cloyes dr t/c, new header gaskets, spark plugs and wires and a performa built 2000 stall, new ac delco opti and other stuff that im still ordering
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...?number=652394
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=98213
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...?number=652394
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=98213
With the Cloyed double roller, you are aware that you need an electric water pump, vented optispark, and some other minor modifications, correct?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Houston, TX
mods Is the electronic wp necessary? I know i gotta grind the timing cover some for propper fitment . I have a 97 lt1 ws6 a4, 140k on the clock and no mechanical or oil burning problems at all.
Yes the Cloyes DR does not have provisions for the water pump drive shaft gear so the only alternative is to remove the water pump drive from the block and use and electric water pump.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Houston, TX
damn Well i gotta think now if i should keep the DR timing chain. Would it be ok to just change the timing chain with out sprockets? By the way Im gonna DELETE All emissions , is there a thread of what i need to take out and plug. Im gonna get a mail order tune from madz28 or pcmforless. What else should be replaced once im in there??
^x2 I would go 2800-3200 stall at least
emissions delete:
smog pump and plug stock header copiping connections for smog pump
do not delete the gas tank venting. If you do then install a small air filter on the end. I still ran the vent tube up towards the front of the engine and then placed the air filter on it.
egr delete.
You can go to shbox's website and look through his emissions sections. he has great documentation. I used his site exclusively to delete all mine. everything works great.
emissions delete:
smog pump and plug stock header copiping connections for smog pump
do not delete the gas tank venting. If you do then install a small air filter on the end. I still ran the vent tube up towards the front of the engine and then placed the air filter on it.
egr delete.
You can go to shbox's website and look through his emissions sections. he has great documentation. I used his site exclusively to delete all mine. everything works great.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Houston, TX
stall I havnt bought the stall yet , just wanted something a lil better than the stock one. Guy is selling it for 130 shipped with 5k on it. But its gonna wait i might want to keep the DR timing chain and just buy a CSR EWP. I will eventually might do a 2800-3000 stall from circle d but until income tax time 
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Yeah I'm doing the CC503 swap right now. I wouldn't do a double roller timing chain specially on a budget. Just get a stock replacement and some new sprockets not that expensive. Cost me about $93 from GMpartsdirect.com. You got some miles on her if I was you take no budget on that valvetrain.
gmpartsdirect ssuuucckksss!!!
I would NOT use them again or recommend them.
There are other factory gm parts site that are much better to deal with.
You can get the stock gm chain from summit too. Just put in the GM part number.
A tad higher than gmpartsdirect but by the time gmpd gets done raping you on shipping, summit is cheaper.
I would NOT use them again or recommend them.
There are other factory gm parts site that are much better to deal with.
You can get the stock gm chain from summit too. Just put in the GM part number.
A tad higher than gmpartsdirect but by the time gmpd gets done raping you on shipping, summit is cheaper.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 149
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From: Sulphur Springs ,tx
Dont waste your time on the 2000 stall,if you cant afford a good 9-10 in. stall get a new b-29 dacco vette/s10 stall new for about $100,they stall about 2300-2400,and a friend of mine had one in his car for years.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Houston, TX
engine rebuild I have seen on some of you guys 's post someything about a budget rebuild? What does it consist? New ring and bearings, oil pump ,gasket set? I been thinking about a stock rebuild. My engine gots 140k on it and doesnt burn oil or make any noises at all. Transmission was just rebuilt and has another year and 8 months under warranty. what do you guys think my budget is about 900 dllrs tops. I know its not much and im not looking to make over 400rwhp jsut a good 350 to 375 rwhp would be nice. Any ideas are welcome and appreciated thanks ....oscar
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Houston, TX
GMPD didnt really seem that bad to me. Got everything really quick and once again got it all for around $93 and some change. But yet only have worked with them onces. So could be different next one.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 149
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From: Sulphur Springs ,tx
stall You just need to call some local tranny shops,alot of people use dacco converters for regular rebuilds.I can tell you if you want your car to run under power for a while,drop your pan replace the rod and main bearings,new timing chain and melling select oil pump,and you should get alot more miles out of the old lt1 if its not burning oil.
I have seen on some of you guys 's post someything about a budget rebuild? What does it consist? New ring and bearings, oil pump ,gasket set? I been thinking about a stock rebuild. My engine gots 140k on it and doesnt burn oil or make any noises at all. Transmission was just rebuilt and has another year and 8 months under warranty. what do you guys think my budget is about 900 dllrs tops. I know its not much and im not looking to make over 400rwhp jsut a good 350 to 375 rwhp would be nice. Any ideas are welcome and appreciated thanks ....oscar
Stock rebuild is pretty cheap if you have a good machine shop that doesn't gouge you on pricing.
I've dealt with them several times, never had an issue.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Houston, TX
motor Well i found a motor from a 94 z28 with 119k on the clock. Well upon further inspection it has all new gasket , i can see the blue felpro gaskets on the timing cover and the oil pan gasket looks new too. There is absolutely no oil under or side of the engine, it has brand new ac delco spark plugs. So it cought my eye and i decided to pop a valve cover and the heads are shiny silver and springs were marked with a white marker. So this makes me think that the engine has been rebuilt recently. what do you guys think and its $250 dllrs?
Forget you saw that 2000 stall....That cam needs a 2500 stall minimum for the car to drive properly. Otherwise it will not have good brake vacuum and will pull the brakes at lights. Been there done that with that same cam myself. I would recommend something like a 3200+. BTW I ran a Yank 3600 with the cc503 and it was a stout combo, daily drove it and hauled *** at the strip.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Houston, TX
stall http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...e=4L60-700R4tc