Best Forged Piston?
at a minimum I've got way more than that into just the shortblock. Also to achieve 14:1 compression takes alot, I've got 13.9:1 with a .005 deck 60cc heads and a custom cometic gasket down around .027 compressed. It takes alot to get that high.
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The pistons are not going to be your weak point anyway. Stock will be just fine.
On a side note: if you want more compression take your heads to a machine shop and have them mill them about .200"
that will give you your 14:1 or whatever you wanted. If you have a band saw, that could work too..
On a side note: if you want more compression take your heads to a machine shop and have them mill them about .200"
that will give you your 14:1 or whatever you wanted. If you have a band saw, that could work too..
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I'll tell you right now your going to have to clean up your cylinder walls prob .030" over inorder to get a good finish and ring seat espically on a motor that has never been rebuilt before (I am assuming you have above 50K miles at least). You will have to hone it at the very least inorder to acheive the correct piston to wall clearance for the new pistons and also to allow the rings to seat properly. Next you will want to stay under 11.8-12:1 to run pump gas with a mild tune. You're also going to have to re-balance the rotating assembly for the new crank and rods. I recommend talking to a machine shop about it. As for good pistons at a good price mahle, SRP Pro Series and Diamond are great ways to go. Also when you say right/left piston, I'm not sure what your talking about they are all the same. Your going to basically have to rebuild the motor. Also with the new rods and pistons they will need to have the rod ends sized to achieve proper clearance with the right size bearing on the rods and mains and you will also have to properly clearance the pin in the rod/piston to allow for oiling.
All in all its not a light task to undertake if you have never built an engine before or have no professional guidance. Like I said before I'd reccomend talking to a machine shop.
All in all its not a light task to undertake if you have never built an engine before or have no professional guidance. Like I said before I'd reccomend talking to a machine shop.
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machine work will easily be over $1000, then $500 pistons, $400 rods, etc. The list goes on and on. Thats why I say to just cam it and mill heads .020" to .030" ($100 at a local machine shop) to give ou 11.5:1 compression and a fun street car that runs on pump gas
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Well I am going to pull the motor before I attempt to remove heads. And I want to stay away from the machine shops. I am running E10 so it is high octane. I guess I'll contact a piston manufacturer for the best side specific, high compression piston and rod combo...
I got my block boiled, bored, honed, line honed and cam bearing for around $500 and got Scat forged I beams and Mahl forged pistons for $630 Bearing's arp hardware for a few hundred more. I guess if you get better parts but DAMN $4000
And FWIW, if you want to avoid machine shops, then avoid touching your motor, period.
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Dude if I haul my block to a local machine shop and tell them to prep it for bigger pistons, I know they will say five grand please. Unless I haul it out of state or something? I am just doing a simple rod and piston swap. And main bearings too........I was just interested in the latest piston technology, that's all.
this thread is kind of old but it may help you out
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ottem-end.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ottem-end.html
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Craz....I know you from somewhere else. You may not need forged pistons unless you are planning on hitting it with a pretty decent sized shot. You can get a good hypereutectic piston that will weigh alot less and spend the money that you would have spent on the forged pistons on a good balancing of the rotating assembly.