True Duals After X-Mas - Need Suggestions Now
#22
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I absolutely love my 2.5" setup with an x-pipe. It's not raspy at all, and surprisingly not all that loud until you go WOT. Any particular reason you want to run the exhaust out the back over the axel? That's a pain for the exhaust shop to do and will raise the price significantly over just dumping before the axel. It only cost me around $150 for my setup (excluding the xpipe) but including both bullet mufflers.
#23
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Hey:
In some states your car can't pass a visual, unless you have cats and go out the back to the original area where the exhaust exited. Some you can't even change the cats location at all. Just depends on the county or municipalities smog and inspection rules.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
In some states your car can't pass a visual, unless you have cats and go out the back to the original area where the exhaust exited. Some you can't even change the cats location at all. Just depends on the county or municipalities smog and inspection rules.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
#24
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you dont need more then a duel 2.5" exhaust. theyll support well into the 500hp range. and like others have said here theirs better ground clearance. however if you have the ground clearance and you can snake the duel 3" wherever you want then id say go for it. even tho dont forget having a slower moving exhaust gas will hold you back from making power. 2.5" will move the exhaust faster then a 3"
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Saying "you don't need it because I don't have one" doesn't mean anything.
#27
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look ay the numbers man....they are right there with what other cars make WITH it. all i was saying was you dont NEED it. a NEED is something you cant do without. you saying he needs it, is the same as saying his car will not run or work without it. will it help it? maybe. will it HURT it? not one bit. all i was saying is that a crossover pipe is not a necessity.
so yea, me saying that he doesnt need it does mean something....bc my car is proof that it DOESNT NEED it. it actually means more than you imply that it DOES need it
so yea, me saying that he doesnt need it does mean something....bc my car is proof that it DOESNT NEED it. it actually means more than you imply that it DOES need it
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look ay the numbers man....they are right there with what other cars make WITH it. all i was saying was you dont NEED it. a NEED is something you cant do without. you saying he needs it, is the same as saying his car will not run or work without it. will it help it? maybe. will it HURT it? not one bit. all i was saying is that a crossover pipe is not a necessity.
so yea, me saying that he doesnt need it does mean something....bc my car is proof that it DOESNT NEED it. it actually means more than you imply that it DOES need it![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
so yea, me saying that he doesnt need it does mean something....bc my car is proof that it DOESNT NEED it. it actually means more than you imply that it DOES need it
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comparing similar cars with similar bolt ons isn't an apples to apples comparison IMO... your shortblock could be in better shape than many others, which could be helping your numbers.
until I seen a back-to-back dyno proven run, or track pass on the same car comparing an exhaust with, and without a crossover, I wouldn't un-rule the fact that your car could still, infact, benefit from a crossover.
if nothing else, the exhaust tone would have to be much better. I know when I cut out the H-pipe on my '94 z-71, it went from sounding like a mustang at WOT, to sounding like a '70's model truck with 1 7/8" glasspacks at WOT.
#29
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I absolutely love my 2.5" setup with an x-pipe. It's not raspy at all, and surprisingly not all that loud until you go WOT. Any particular reason you want to run the exhaust out the back over the axel? That's a pain for the exhaust shop to do and will raise the price significantly over just dumping before the axel. It only cost me around $150 for my setup (excluding the xpipe) but including both bullet mufflers.
Hey:
In some states your car can't pass a visual, unless you have cats and go out the back to the original area where the exhaust exited. Some you can't even change the cats location at all. Just depends on the county or municipalities smog and inspection rules.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
In some states your car can't pass a visual, unless you have cats and go out the back to the original area where the exhaust exited. Some you can't even change the cats location at all. Just depends on the county or municipalities smog and inspection rules.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
As long as you can pass the sniffer, they'll pass you. That's why I'm going to use the cats. Hopefully the cats plus a little bit of denatured alcohol will make up for not having any of the other emissions hook ups.
you dont need more then a duel 2.5" exhaust. theyll support well into the 500hp range. and like others have said here theirs better ground clearance. however if you have the ground clearance and you can snake the duel 3" wherever you want then id say go for it. even tho dont forget having a slower moving exhaust gas will hold you back from making power. 2.5" will move the exhaust faster then a 3"
#30
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I'm canceling out the EGR and AIR, so cats are my only chance of passing emissions. So my plan was to have cutouts on each side right after the headers (before the cats), but some people are telling me it would be pointless/actually hurt power. I was just thinking it would be a good idea so I wouldn't have to run cats at the track.
What are your opinions on this?
What are your opinions on this?
#31
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I'm canceling out the EGR and AIR, so cats are my only chance of passing emissions. So my plan was to have cutouts on each side right after the headers (before the cats), but some people are telling me it would be pointless/actually hurt power. I was just thinking it would be a good idea so I wouldn't have to run cats at the track.
What are your opinions on this?
What are your opinions on this?
I dynoed -7rwhp cutout closed VS no cutout (3" Hooker catback).
I dynoed +10 open vs closed
Which gives you a net of +3rwhp when open VS not having one at all.
What a waste of time/money.
After breaking a few e-cutouts and being generally annoyed with the sound, I removed my cutout alltogether.
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Causes more turbulance and clearance issues that it's worth.
I dynoed -7rwhp cutout closed VS no cutout (3" Hooker catback).
I dynoed +10 open vs closed
Which gives you a net of +3rwhp when open VS not having one at all.
What a waste of time/money.
After breaking a few e-cutouts and being generally annoyed with the sound, I removed my cutout alltogether.
I dynoed -7rwhp cutout closed VS no cutout (3" Hooker catback).
I dynoed +10 open vs closed
Which gives you a net of +3rwhp when open VS not having one at all.
What a waste of time/money.
After breaking a few e-cutouts and being generally annoyed with the sound, I removed my cutout alltogether.
It's only $60 for the two cutouts, and I wouldn't need electric ones as they wouldn't be used much. But if it's absolutely not worth it, than I won't. I'd just hate to lose power because of those damn cats.