Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I'm getting a set of the stainless steel eBay headers for Xmas, along with all the other stuff I'll need for the setup. I've decided I want to go with true duals over the axel and out the back, but other than that, I have no clue about anything else.

1. 2.5" or 3"? I've seen people doing it both ways, but is there any reason to pick one size over the other?

2. H-Pipe or X-Pipe? Will I need to make suspension changes with either one?

3. Muffler suggestions?

4. I plan on getting electric cutouts. I'm assuming I'll need two, where should I position them?

5. Anything else I should know? I don't ever plan on lowering the car too much and it would be nice if the true duals could work on the stock suspension. I know a pretty good exhaust guy, but if I can give him a clear idea of what I want, it's even better.

LT1

iTrader: (1)

I'm running 3" true dual X-pipe stock suspension, I have no issues. I just have to go slow over steep speed bumps because my long tube scrapes. Its dumped before axle but from looking under there still room to run it back.

happysem

iTrader: (5)

I've got TD's that are 2.5" with an X-pipe to dumped bullets.

Ground clearance is pretty damn good considering its catted too.

IIRC, 2.5" is good for up to ~500ish hp?
and 3" is like 800 or something crazy.
So unless you're going that far, I don't see a reason to do 3".

I chose the X-pipe because it just looks like its gonna flow better, and I think its been proven to have better peak numbers, but H-pipe has got a little more power down low, I THINK, can't remember where I read the article.

Mufflers? Its all pretty much preference, any kind of bullets would be the best IMO.
Either that or those single chamber blowmasters or something.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

for what you have listed in your sig and what is to come on there the 2.5 is plenty for your setup. i have seen people run them out the back without issue. If you are in need of a little more clearance then you can buy the upper panhard bar relocation bar.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

You buy a 3" X pipe kit from Jegs (X + 4x45* bends)
Pick up a pair of 3" in/out mufflers of your choice.
Then buy 4 180* mandrel U bends from my forsale thread

And build one just like mine.
http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ual%20Exhaust/

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

I'm about to do the same in December when my new engine is finished but I'm going with 3" x-pipe just so I'll have room to grow and I only want to do it once. I'm going over the axle one pipe on each side and as mentioned I have the UMI panhard bar relocation kit. For mufflers I'm going to use dual dynomax stainless mufflers and I'm going to mount them all the way at the rear of the car like all of the newer cars do (Mushtang, Charger etc)

JoeliusZ28

iTrader: (2)

here's my setup:

3" duals with an H-pipe and flowmaster delta force 40s. I love it. Will eventually be taking it over the axle, just havent got around to it yet. I chose the H-pipe only for the sound.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1GYws9Wso0

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

that is a Beautiful exhaust set up you have there!

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

That's really all I would need?

I was thinking of having a local shop do the work and supply all the parts (my friend is really good friends with the guy, so I get a discount) except the muffler. From a quick estimate it seems like its going to be from $300 to $400.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Yup, I used the X pipe kit and 4 180* bends + about 8" of 3" strait pipe to get done what you see in those pics/vids
I actually ended up with 1 45* bend left over from the X pipe kit.
(I over-estimated how many 180*s I needed, which is how I ended up with 4 spares)

If you have a hookup who can provide you with a lift, cutting, welding and a discount on parts you're in great shape
Took a few hours to cut and weld it all together, but I'm very happy with the results.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

It really does look and sound great and from some quick math it seems like you got it done at a good price.

The guy I know works at an exhaust shop, so he has access to everything I'd need. He recently did my brothers 70 Cutlass exhaust, it sounds and looks great. He did it for around $350 and that was before I even knew I could get a discount.

I'll have my own lift in by the new year, so if I knew how to weld I'd give it a shot myself. But I'm thinking of leaving this one to the pros.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Good deal man ... get er done!

and post pics when you finish so we can drool over it.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

Now I just have to decide on 2.5" or 3" and which mufflers.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

2.5" pipe is good for lowered cars that need clearance or people who want to
go over the axle without having to use a PHB relocation bracket.

I don't think dual 2.5" would choke a cammed Lt1, but it may become a
restriction later depending what you do with the car. If you're the kind of
guy who wants to do this over again in a few years or who doesn't want to
mod beyond H/C, that may not be a big deal.

Depending who's formula you use, dual 2.5" provide enough flow to satisfy a 350-550hp motor without HP loss.
Dual 3" 500-700hp

A typical 503-cammed Lt1 M6 puts 360 to the wheels. (or about 400 at the crank)
Add ported heads and you quickly find yourself closer to 450 at the crank.

Here's a good FAQ
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-pics-too.html



As for muffler choice,
Find something that A) you like the sound of and B) flow well.
Magnaflow and Hooker are my personal favorites.
Bullet-style mufflers will typically give you better flow and more clearance, but they can be raspy.
Chambered mufflers are bigger and heavier, but they tend to produce a mellower tone.
Listen here -> http://www.ls1sounds.com/

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

Go stainless, just buy this LPP LSx duals for $350 from the LPP website and mod the back to get over the axle, and cut a couple inches off the drivers side instant LTx duals.
Hard to beat the price then if you buy ebay stainless LTs you would have a nice polished dual stainless 3" exhaust from end to end for $900 or less. For the complete LTs & catback duals, thats awesome, I don't think anybody can compete with that.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...?highlight=lpp

Dub

When In Doubt Do Without

Mighty Whitey

I'm really digging this exhaust setup, roughly how much money do you have tied up in it including mufflers?

I've got a hooker cat-back on the car now, and it sounds alright, but true duals with the same mufflers are bound to sound even better.

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

How about this way, it takes a little work on the installer, but it can be made to clear with a panhard relocation bar for 3" out the back.

Dub

When In Doubt Do Without

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

Maybe I should just go with 3" then. If I ever wanted to spray, I'd be pushing the limit.

Edit - The relocation bracket is like $200, so my cheap *** will probably do a 2.5" so I don't have to mess with that.

Chances are, I'll have to be running cats. So if i go with a Bullet Style muffler, the cats should help out on the raspiness.


That is a very clean setup. Are those Powerstick mufflers on it?

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

LOL, yeah, the relo bracket isn't cheap.
But I needed the extra flow for my build.
Like I said earlier, you may be able to get away with 2.5s depending on future plans.

4 180* Mandel U bends @ $26.99 ea
4 3" band clamps @ 8.99 ea (2 at collector, 2 behind rear axle for easy removal)
1 Jegs 3" X-pipe kit @ 94.99 ea
2 Hooker AeroChamber Mufflers @ 67.99 ea

About 3 hours labor @ shop rate.


So a complete build would probably run you $550-600 total.
Which isn't bad at all for existing at the tail.
You can do it MUCH cheaper (and with 0 U-bends) if you dump before the axle.
It just ends up bottoming out a lot, that's all.

[/hijack]

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

Yes, 4 of them to get it quiet enough, they are loud. 2 in the middle 2 on the ends.

Dub

When In Doubt Do Without